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2G 1997 Eclipse Spyder GST

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tonydl

Probationary Member
12
0
May 3, 2021
Prineville, Oregon
Ok sooo here's what I've done and what I know so far and I'm still haven issues,
Ok most recently my clutch went out and I replaced it with an HD clutch and the one before was stock, I replaced pressure plate and had the flywheel resurfaced to proper spec. I say "proper spec" because I trust the guy who did it, now I've been messing around with this clutch to try and regain some what of a normal pressure and avoid the shuttering when reversing mainly, any tips would be great. 2) my car seems to be running differently and my fans come on as soon as the key is in the on position. I have run a OBD test on it and it comes back with a coolant temp sensor code, so I tracked it down found a broken wire. I had to completely tear the wires out of the plug and I ended up running new wires through it and out "The right stuff" on the end to seal up the holes on the back of the plug. Now I'm curious if the sensor gauge is most likely what is causing my fans to act funny and with my fans acting funny, my car doesn't like to start in the morning. If I try and give it gas at start up, it cuts out and wants to die until I let off or it warms up enough.....ok there's a lot here and not put together the best but any and all HELP is much appreciated! Photos to show my master and slave cylinder and a few other pics that may be related or of interest to my problems? thank you! Also the grey piece that is in one of the pictures I went over it with "The right stuff" to seal it up. I'm limited on money and resources obviously LOL.

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is your clutch a 6 puck?

did you adjust it correctly?
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from https://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

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What clutch did you install? I know you said you trust your machinist but did you get a measurement? If you don't know you don't know. The only way to know for sure is to measure the flywheel step height. Do not assume it was right before this install. Even if the machinist removed equal parts from the steps and the surface you cannot be sure of the measurement. Somebody before you could've done it wrong. It's not as critical on a stock clutch but it most definitely is on an aftermarket clutch stronger than a stock clutch. Run us through what you did. Did you replace the master cylinder or the slave?
 
Master and slave have been replaced. Just with this process, do to one busting the bracket and the other crapped out so 3 slave, 2 masters, the clutch is a 6 puck I'll put pics with this post. I essentially just needed a clutch replacement, but after doing so my cars not liking to start in the morning LOL random but I feel it has something to do with maybe FPR or fuel pump idk why but that's my guess. Anyways, my clutch is making me over clutch it feels just to shift I haven't gotten to mess with it much yet but my adjustment rod is practically at max and my button on the back is almost all the way out so I'm at a loss of why its still not fully engaging....
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I'd screw in that master cyl rod about a 1/4 inch and see if anything changes. If it's too far extended like in the pic the system cannot bleed off pressure. Which will then cause the system to constantly apply pressure to the slave and not fully engage when you let out the clutch pedal.

You should also be able to push the slave rod back by hand. If it's solid, the master is holding pressure and needs adjusted.
 
It's been a while since I've had a ceramic 6 puck clutch, but aren't those grabby by nature? Could explain the chatter when "feathering" it, like in reverse.
i was thinking the same thing.
a 6 puck is gonna do that if your feathering it.

If it was my car i would definitely remove the restrictor with a 6 puck disc.

it looks like you need to shim the pivot ball too but its hard to tell from the angle of your picture.
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