1997 GST tranny removal....

[SRiz]

Im taking my tranny out for a rebuild and Ive pulled a tranny out of a car before but never an eclipse... Is there a VFAQ on this cause I couldnt find one I would just like it on paper so I can have a check list as I go..... also while im down there what should I replace? my throwout bearing is OEM replaced 1500 miles ago the tranny side engine oil seal has been replaced and the clutch is new... should I replace axles or soemthing
Thanks
Sam

 

[PSIcho]

Just follow the VFAQ (vfaq.com) for the 2G AWD Clutch install. It was written for an AWD so you can disregard the part about the transfer case removal. Also, you'd only need to remove passenger side axel the driver side just pulls out and reinserts with no problem. As far as other stuff, I highly recommend the pivot ball and clutch fork be replaced in addition to a new OEM TOB. I may be forgeting something else, I hope somebody else picks it up. Or I'll post if I remember.

 

[Woodsy0]

There's also a write-up in the tech section, http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59658, which helps to suppliment the VFAQ.

Some small things to remember -

In my experience, you'll have to remove the rear motor mount/bracket altogether from the frame and the motor, I think the walkthroughs just simply directed to disconnect the motor mount but we had problems angling the tranny away from the frame cause the bracket kept hitting.

While your at the removal, couldn't hurt to change out the stock clutch line with a SS unit, and change out the tranny fluid with BG Syncroshift.

I know this is probably self-explanatory, but make sure you have a jack adapter handy for the transmission removal, and make sure to support the engine as it won't have a whole lot anchoring it to the car (superstars can use an engine hoist or something comparable, all I had was some spare jack stands and pieces of wood).

Take a peek at your slave cylinder to make sure it's not leaking at all, it probably isn't.

Be careful when removing the shifter cable cotter pins, both of mine broke and we had to drill out the leftovers. While these are disconnected, it's not a bad idea to replace the bushings with stiffer urethene (cheap, MachV carries some, improves shifter feel by leaps)

The axles don't need to be replaced unless you check them out and the CV boots are torn and/or you were already experiencing problems on the street that would lead you to think that your CV joints are damaged.