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1992 Turtle

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As I was following the wires around, I noticed that the wires that come through the firewall on the passenger side, lead all the way around the front then back into the driver side frame hole that looks like it leads to inside the car for the fuse block under the driver side dash. Is this correct?

If so I might bite the bullet and just re-wire everything. Because some of these plugs have to be rewired and if I have to pull the wires that are on the driver side I might as well do the whole damn car. Even though that is not what I want to do right now. What does everyone else think?
The harness on the ps splits and goes to the all the wires around the intake manifold and the fuse box. From the fuse box it runs to the front under the radiator support to the other side. Then to the drivers side, through fender and back into the drivers side fuse box. You have to remove the fuse box on the drivers side.

Who did you get the front emblem from?
 
Ahh ok, that works, thank you very much!!!
Also, you can use that boost solenoid to do boost override. I run 24#'s of WG boost and use that solenoid to open the WG line for FULL BOOST if needed. I "think" you can do that in conjunction with link controlling it. I have a button on my steering wheel to get the job done, although I've never "had" to use it. 24#'s of HX40 has been enough but if I needed 40+, its just a touch away.
It's just another way to use that is all I am saying. Love your updates!
 
The harness on the ps splits and goes to the all the wires around the intake manifold and the fuse box. From the fuse box it runs to the front under the radiator support to the other side. Then to the drivers side, through fender and back into the drivers side fuse box. You have to remove the fuse box on the drivers side.

Who did you get the front emblem from?
Paul at RTM sells them, I got one for the 1GA grill and painted it, nice piece.
 
The harness on the ps splits and goes to the all the wires around the intake manifold and the fuse box. From the fuse box it runs to the front under the radiator support to the other side. Then to the drivers side, through fender and back into the drivers side fuse box. You have to remove the fuse box on the drivers side.
Awesome thank you! That helps out alot, exactly what I was trying to figure out. Tha will make things alot easier.
 
Also, you can use that boost solenoid to do boost override. I run 24#'s of WG boost and use that solenoid to open the WG line for FULL BOOST if needed. I "think" you can do that in conjunction with link controlling it. I have a button on my steering wheel to get the job done, although I've never "had" to use it. 24#'s of HX40 has been enough but if I needed 40+, its just a touch away.
It's just another way to use that is all I am saying. Love your updates!
Gotcha, I will definitely have to keep that in mind, for when the motor says it has had enough and I end up rebuilding it.

Thank you, I try to keep it updated more often and finding time to even get anything done with the car to begin with.
 
Well I did do a little bit today, wasn't much, haven't had alot of time between work, kids and holidays. I got something accomplished today. I retagged all of the wiring as the first tags were falling off or already did.

20211219_135643.jpg


The bay is starting to look cleaner, really need to clean it all too. Still need to pull the driver side harness as well.

20211219_141336.jpg
 
No clue on 1st pic of connectors.
2nd - Fuel pump check I believe
3rd - Brake Fluid reservoir low fluid switch - controls the idiot light on the cluster when you have low fluid
 
No clue on 1st pic of connectors.
2nd - Fuel pump check I believe
3rd - Brake Fluid reservoir low fluid switch - controls the idiot light on the cluster when you have low fluid

1st pic is for windshield wipers I believe.
Sweet, thank you guys! More that seems like I have to have, but can hide under the dash.
 
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