1991 TSi AWD

[DreamChaser7]

Love the ingenuity! Might steel that one day.

 

[19Eclipse90]

How are you running the wires for those gauges? Are they routed behind the A-pillar trim and, if so, did you not have to drill a hole through the trim to allow the wires to pass through?

 

[dwb]

How are you running the wires for those gauges? Are they routed behind the A-pillar trim and, if so, did you not have to drill a hole through the trim to allow the wires to pass through?

No drilling or cutting of the OEM trim. There's a crack between the speaker moulding and the dash that I was able to snake my wires and boost source through, so the wires are technically on the outside of the a-pillar trim. I cut the bottom of the pod to fit down inside that crack to conceal the wires and hold the bottom of the pod in place. I can still see a bit of wire if I look closely through the windshield.

Here's what you can see through the windshield. I wish it wasn't a red wire exposed. It's the + for my boost gauge light and you can see my boost source peeking behind it.

 

[dwb]

Time for some more updates! Since I left off on my gauges, I'll pick it up from there.

I started this thread as my AEM wideband was giving me oscillating and unusable readings when logging via ECMLink. The gauge it's self was still reading consistently but it's almost impossible to do much tuning without it in the log.

Here's what it looked like:

My gauge did not do this when it was brand new and I suspected something was wrong with the gauge or maybe the sensor. I contacted AEM support, and while they were really responsive, I did not get any answer I was happy with. They said since I wasn't using one of AEMs ECUs, and the gauge was still reading proper, they couldn't warranty the gauge or sensor. Basically blaming the ECU and/or input. AEM suggested I replace the FAE sensor with the Bosch LSU 4.9. So I bit the bullet and bought the Bosch sensor and installed it. Lo and behold it fixed the oscillation in ECMLink and I was happy but still not happy to have to buy another sensor.

New Bosch sensor installed, seemingly doing what it should, and suddenly my gauge starts incorrectly detecting the sensor. Sometimes it detects FAE, sometimes the LSU4.9, and other times it would detect it as SCLr (whatever that means). Very inconsistent but seems to still read proper. THEN I start seeing this:

That's the heat cycle fully heated but hung on booting. Sometimes it would heat normal and boot, other times it would take forever to heat but eventually boot. Boy, I'm glad I added this WB as a downstream sensor and kept the OEM sensor so I'm not simulating NB. Truly saved my bacon.

Time to reach out to AEM support again. AEM had me jump though their hoops. Like running a new ground wire directly to the battery as if my current ground from the ECU wasn't a proper ground (yeah, right). At this point I don't know if they are willing to warranty it or not, even though it is still in the 1 year warranty period.

Anyway, I end up at this:

Don't worry, I didn't do this out of RAGE. While tempting when things don't work right, I try to keep my stuff in one piece. This was actually at AEM's request. They decided to warranty the gauge but I was required to DESTROY the old gauge before they would send a new one. So I smashed the thing with a hammer and sent them pictures. What ever happened to sending defective equipment back to the manufacture?

Anyway, a new gauge is on it's way and I removed the sensor and replaced it with a plug so I hopefully still have a working sensor when my replacement gauge shows up. This new gauge better freeking working right! Kind of wish I had gone with a Innovate gauge at this point but what's done is done.

Still more updates and I'll post as I get time.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Can I "borrow" your picture???

I am running a LC2 and it was acting funny, a little like yours, erratic. I bought a "no name" sensor twice this last week and returned them as defective and finally did the same as you and got a Bosch sensor. Car loved me for it. No more hanging at 13.6 or whatever and then coming back to life. For now, it's doing great.....again.

If you buy a different gauge, don't get red led. They are very hard to see in sunlight. Mine is RED.....

Tell me something, does your gauge read off of the same wire going to your ECU? Also my tuner had me make sure that my ECU and gauge were both grounded at the same place and my gauge is tapped into the ECU wire. They worked very close after that. (Thanks KJ).

 

[DreamChaser7]

Time for some more updates! Since I left off on my gauges, I'll pick it up from there.
I started this thread as my AEM wideband was giving me oscillating and unusable readings when logging via ECMLink. The gauge it's self was still reading consistently but it's almost impossible to do much tuning without it in the log. Here's what it looked like:
View attachment 744049
My gauge did not do this when it was brand new and I suspected something was wrong with the gauge or maybe the sensor. I contacted AEM support, and while they were really responsive, I did not get any answer I was happy with. They said since I wasn't using one of AEMs ECUs, and the gauge was still reading proper, they couldn't warranty the gauge or sensor. Basically blaming the ECU and/or input. AEM suggested I replace the FAE sensor with the Bosch LSU 4.9. So I bit the bullet and bought the Bosch sensor and installed it. Lo and behold it fixed the oscillation in ECMLink and I was happy but still not happy to have to buy another sensor.

New Bosch sensor installed, seemingly doing what it should, and suddenly my gauge starts incorrectly detecting the sensor. Sometimes it detects FAE, sometimes the LSU4.9, and other times it would detect it as SCLr (whatever that means). Very inconsistent but seems to still read proper. THEN I start seeing this:
View attachment 744050
That's the heat cycle fully heated but hung on booting. Sometimes it would heat normal and boot, other times it would take forever to heat but eventually boot. Boy, I'm glad I added this WB as a downstream sensor and kept the OEM sensor so I'm not simulating NB. Truly saved my bacon.

Time to reach out to AEM support again. AEM had me jump though their hoops. Like running a new ground wire directly to the battery as if my current ground from the ECU wasn't a proper ground (yeah, right). At this point I don't know if they are willing to warranty it or not, even though it is still in the 1 year warranty period.

Anyway, I end up at this:
View attachment 744051
Don't worry, I didn't do this out of RAGE. While tempting when things don't work right, I try to keep my stuff in one piece. This was actually at AEM's request. They decided to warranty the gauge but I was required to DESTROY the old gauge before they would send a new one. So I smashed the thing with a hammer and sent them pictures. What ever happened to sending defective equipment back to the manufacture?

Anyway, a new gauge is on it's way and I removed the sensor and replaced it with a plug so I hopefully still have a working sensor when my replacement gauge shows up. This new gauge better freeking working right! Kind of wish I had gone with a Innovate gauge at this point but what's done is done.

Still more updates and I'll post as I get time.

Maybe this will help? I remember reading this a while back and it steered me away from buying the AEM WB as much as I thought I wanted it where I plan to use ECMLink. Keep in mind I have no clue about this stuff yet, just remember reading this and didn’t know if it might help.

aemwb [ECMTuning - wiki]

www.ecmtuning.com

 

[dwb]

Maybe this will help? I remember reading this a while back and it steered me away from buying the AEM WB as much as I thought I wanted it where I plan to use ECMLink. Keep in mind I have no clue about this stuff yet, just remember reading this and didn’t know if it might help.

aemwb [ECMTuning - wiki]

www.ecmtuning.com

Thanks, but I've been there, done that. Honestly when the AEM is working properly I have no issues logging to ECMLink. 'Properly' being the key word.
I also built the buffer circuit too, and that is still installed. Just a quick pic of the buffer I built:

 

[dwb]

Can I "borrow" your picture???

Go for it, but I think they will not appreciate the wrong serial number. Maybe photoshop?

 

[DreamChaser7]

Thanks, but I've been there, done that. Honestly when the AEM is working properly I have no issues logging to ECMLink. 'Properly' being the key word.
I also built the buffer circuit too, and that is still installed. Just a quick pic of the buffer I built:
View attachment 744054

You obviously know more than I do about the subject!

 

[Dericsh]

What ever happened to sending defective equipment back to the manufacture?

Unfortunately, they care more about saving the shipping cost than they do studying why it failed.

 

[dwb]

My ACT 2100 clutch had been slipping, and strangely enough it started off in 1st gear. Like I would take off from a stop light and if I got into boost before the clutch locked up, I had to back off the throttle, let the clutch lock up, and then I was good to go again. Eventually started slipping in 2nd and 3rd too, so time for a new clutch. I've been using ACT clutches for the better part of the last 20 years with mixed results, so I figured I'd try a different brand. Here's my new South Bend Clutch Stage 2 Daily kit. Not pictured is a new ACT StreetLite flywheel. My OEM flywheel had been machined at least 4 or 5 times and I had a suspicion the step height was a bit off (too high).

Here's where my old clutch fork was positioned in the bellhousing cutout. I had a decent sized shim to accommodate for the machining of the flywheel. It was engaging all on the top, which is expected from a worn disc. Slight leak from the slave cylinder so I'll be keeping an eye on that.

Here's what the PP fingers looked like of the old clutch.

And the new:

Small straight-edge to show the position

Here's how I install the trans without a cherry picker. Two straps holding from the top and a floor jack underneath.

Here's a video of my clutch fork position and travel after the new SBC (skip to ~20seconds). I do still have a shim, albeit very thin, because I reused the fork and pivot ball which had a tiny bit of wear.

It was releasing about 1-2" off the floor without any break-in or further adjustment. Just a bit too low for my liking. I've now put about 300 miles of stop-and-go traffic on this clutch and it releases nearly perfect (IMO). I'd guess somewhere around 3" off the floor. SBC suggests 500 miles break-in, hinting that less may be acceptable when done so in stop and go traffic like I've done.
First impressions of this SBC/StreetLite FW combo has been fantastic in a daily driver. Very smooth engagement with no chatter. Seems like it'll hold up nicely to the power level I'm making. I haven't launched it (yet).

 

[Anfurnyy]

That video looks like there's a bit of travel still left on the table compared to what I've seen from properly releasing clutches. Do you have an extended slave rod or anything?

 

[dwb]

That video looks like there's a bit of travel still left on the table compared to what I've seen from properly releasing clutches. Do you have an extended slave rod or anything?

That's all OEM stuff except for a tiny shim. The master is extended almost all the way, with an extra nut welded on the end of the clevis (pedal assy hasn't been rebuilt yet). It doesn't drag at all.

 

[Anfurnyy]

That's all OEM stuff except for a tiny shim. The master is extended almost all the way, with an extra nut welded on the end of the clevis (pedal assy hasn't been rebuilt yet). It doesn't drag at all.

Well shit if that works then forget me

 

[dwb]

Well shit if that works then forget me

It's all good. It seems like everyone's clutch is just a bit different.

 

[CrackedDSM]

That's all OEM stuff except for a tiny shim. The master is extended almost all the way, with an extra nut welded on the end of the clevis (pedal assy hasn't been rebuilt yet). It doesn't drag at all.

Really need to do that to mine. Mine is almost perfect, but I don't have the extended nut/nut welded on the Clevis yet. With even like two more threads I think it'd be perfect.


Good to hear though! Mine is taking FOREVER to break in though because I drive the car so little. It's almost...almost at 200. .

 

[dwb]

Really need to do that to mine. Mine is almost perfect, but I don't have the extended nut/nut welded on the Clevis yet. With even like two more threads I think it'd be perfect.


Good to hear though! Mine is taking FOREVER to break in though because I drive the car so little. It's almost...almost at 200. .

I'm not even sure I need the nut extension but it seemed like a good idea when it was hanging by a thread. I backed it off because I thought my old clutch was slipping due to 'pump up' like the bleader was blocked. It wasn't, just an old clutch.

I don't commute far but I stop and go a lot. With the organic disc it took about 100 miles to get to the same pedal feel I have today. The first 50 miles I was nearly stalling it due to low engagement.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I'm not even sure I need the nut extension but it seemed like a good idea when it was hanging by a thread. I backed it off because I thought my old clutch was slipping due to 'pump up' like the bleader was blocked. It wasn't, just an old clutch.

I don't commute far but I stop and go a lot. With the organic disc it took about 100 miles to get to the same pedal feel I have today. The first 50 miles I was nearly stalling it due to low engagement.

I have the full face ceramic disk, and it definitely was interesting trying to drive it for the first 20-40 miles. I can't really say that it wasn't my lack of driving a manual transmission for 10+ years though. Either the clutch got easier to manipulate and slip with more miles, or I just knocked the rust off and got better at driving it.

 

[dwb]

I have the full face ceramic disk, and it definitely was interesting trying to drive it for the first 20-40 miles. I can't really say that it wasn't my lack of driving a manual transmission for 10+ years though. Either the clutch got easier to manipulate and slip with more miles, or I just knocked the rust off and got better at driving it.

That's familiar except it had only been a long weekend for me

 

[dwb]

I was experiencing intermittent issues with my lifetime warranty 90a alternator. Sometimes it wouldn't charge at all and suddenly start working again. I also noticed that, when it was working, it wasn't outputting enough voltage when I turned on the headlights or rear defroster. So I went off to get a replacement. The store verified it was defective but that 90a alt had been discontinued and NLA from this chain store. You can read about the saga here: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/lifetime-warranty-alternators.547478
I bought another alt from another store, but they only listed a 65/70 amp for the Talon or Eclipse. I had to specify a 91 Galant vr4 to get the 90a version. I get it home and immediately notice the pulley is larger. I decided I wanted the smaller pulley. That way, at idle, I get more revs and better voltage. No big deal, I'll just swap pulleys:

Yep, that's an old hatch strut combined with an old serpentine belt (I don't throw old parts away, never know when they might come on handy). I put it on the floor and held the alt with my foot while torqueing on the ratchet. Popped it loose in no time.

Here's some photos comparing the pulley sizes. Is the bigger pulley a Galant thing or did I just get a weird unit?

New alt installed and so far, so good. I tore apart the old alt and found a broken solder joint and a wire lead that had been slowly eaten away by the rotor. These two issues I believe were the cause of the symptoms I was seeing. I repaired it but I haven't tested it.

 

[dwb]

Discovered my front rotors were complete garbage. Anybody have any idea why the rotors fell apart like this? Pads had nearly 80% left.

Since rotors are trash and I have to buy new ones anyway, I might as well upgrade these 1ga brakes to 1gb "big brakes." I ordered some reman 3kgt/stealth (base model) calipers and rotors/pads that belong to a 93-94 turbo DSM. I opted for these calipers because I already have SS brake lines that do not include 2g banjo fittings. I have no idea if these PowerStop rotors and pads are any good for a daily driver but I'll find out!

new vs old

old stacked on top of new

Installed:

 

[dwb]

Finally got around to painting my spare valve cover.
Etching Primer:

Here it is finished with engine enamel "cast iron." I must say, I'm quite pleased with how well this turned out.

 

[92AWDHX40]

2k clear it and it will really shine.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Looks phenomenal! Also, if one day you decide the 2G brakes aren't enough by themselves, just order the outlander bracket and rotor. The calipers are identical, and the rotors are larger than 2G rotors. I skipped the 2G brakes and went right to the outlanders. Curious how well they perform!


But man that VC looks great.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

He's trying to make his car look "Heavy" with that big ole cast iron valve cover......
The "sleeper effect"
Looks nice!!!