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1991 TSi AWD

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I don't know what you are running for a computer but if you are on ECMLink, you can set the injector battery offset for different voltages. See my own settings for my FIC 2150's in the picture. It is under Direct Access, InjBatteryAdj and adds pulse widths to the injectors on top of their settings to give more fuel under certain lower voltage conditions. I can reach in my window any day, hit the key, and she will fire up and I can walk away.

InjBatteryAdj in Direct Access ECMLink example.png
Thanks Marty, I wish I was running ECMlink. It's on my wish list. Rather, I'm just running a stock ECU and fuel system.:coy:
Yeah, its not adjustable on a stock ECU unfortunately. I would normally say to do ECMLink as the first mod :)
A minor oil leak from the timing belt area that's going to be a PITA to figure out. Long weekend coming up so that'll be a good time to pull the lower timing belt cover.
I pulled the crank pulley and peeked inside the timing belt cover and everything is dry.

Looks like the oil pan is leaking. I thought it was a little suspicious when it took a couple days for the RTV to fully cure during assembly.:hmm::ohdamn:
I've got some updates on the build. It's been a while.
  • Right around 2500 miles since my engine rebuild. I daily drive it and still running strong.
  • Redid the oil pan RTV seal a couple months ago and now it's happy. I'm finally not leaving oil stains everywhere :applause:
  • Had a small coolant leak on the upper end tank of my copper radiator that I soldered up successfully.
  • Getting a brief/faint smell of coolant when turning the HVAC thermostat to high after the engine is up to temp. Signs are pointing to heater core. Still need to pressure test the system to make sure nothing else is leaking.
  • Did a boost leak test and found my brake booster line is shot. I cut a couple inches off the IM side and got a better seal. Went to order a new vacuum line but those are NLA so I ordered an EVO 8 line that will require a little modification. Throttle body shaft seals are leaking pretty good as well so I ordered some of them too. 2nd time doing shaft seals on this car. #3 injector has a boost leak I still need to look into. Manual boost controller is leaking around the adjustment knob so it might be time for a new one.
  • Downpipe flex pipe is leaking and needs replacement. Bought a new one I'll weld in at some point.
  • My audiophile got the best of me and I couldn't take the crackling sound of the original blown door speakers. After researching DSM door speaker sizes, it became apparent I had no clue what size speakers I needed. So off came the door panel to reveal 5 1/4" speakers.
    • 1682349652412.jpeg
    • To my surprise, these Polk Audio speakers fit almost perfectly. Just had to drill new screw holes. Crutchfield provided electrical adapters so a super simple install.
    • 1682349945011.jpeg
    • Here's my custom built sub in the hatch. That woofer is from the early 90's but still rocks (just like the Talon)!
    • 1682350454529.jpeg
    • Got some Pioneer 6x9's in the back seat but no pics of them.
    • Still have the OEM tweeters in the dash, so those are probably next.
  • While doing door speakers, I replaced a bunch of door panel clips. The black ones that hold the top weather moulding (thanks @19Eclipse90 for the 3d printed replacements!) and all the white OEM door clips (ExtremePSI had these in stock).
    • 1682351624386.jpeg
    • 1682351653175.jpeg
More stuff showing up this week! Finally some go-fast parts, but I'll wait to reveal those :D

Almost forgot, gotta give props to my little garage helpers :hmm:


More updates!
  • Installed ECMLink. I'm like a kid in a candy store playing with it.
    • Uploaded 2g timing maps to match my 2g pistons/compression ratio. It's like a different car! Pulls all the way to redline.
    • Slowly turning up the boost. Up to 12psi from about 10psi (still stock turbo and fuel system). Not seeing any knock up top yet.
  • Replaced throttle body shaft seals
  • Installed new brake booster vacuum line
  • Eliminated EGR/charcoal canister vacuum lines. I did an EGR blockoff about 22 years ago so no need for these lines.
  • Capped the TB vacuum ports. I need to find some better caps than the cheap rubber ones that fall apart in a few months.
  • Boost leak test showed no major leaks and held 20psi.
Couple issues I'm now battling with:
  • Idle issues after replacing the TB shaft seals and cleaning the TB. Wants to idle around 900-1000+ RPM with my target idle set at 750.
    • BISS is bottomed out
    • No boost leaks
    • New gaskets and o-rings
    • TPS needs slight adjustment so I compensated with ECMLink until I get it manually adjusted. How the h-e-double-hockey-sticks do I loosen that lower TPS bolt without taking the TB loose?
    • Idle switch and stop is working as expected. I even adjusted a bit to make sure the throttle plate wasn't too far open.
    • ISC is working properly.
    • FIAV I didn't mess with. Last fall I popped the freeze plug and closed off the valve so it shouldn't be the problem, but maybe worth investigating. No issues with it prior.
    • Throttle cable is correct and not holding the throttle open
  • Random knock on decel or very low load/boost/throttle
    • Not sure if this is phantom knock or not. More investigation (and suggestions) needed.
FPR installed, bypassed the stock FPR solenoid and set it at 37-38PSI with the engine off.
I noticed after installation the cold startup behavior changed. It idles up like normal to about 1200RPM after initial start but then idles way down to anywhere between 300 and 500 RPM and either dies or catches and bumps back to 1200. This repeats two to four times, worse the colder it is. I happened to log it yesterday, which can be found on this post:

Been a while since I've updated my build. So here goes in no particular order:
  • I've put about 8k miles on the engine after rebuild, still running strong.
  • Idle is under control, I can't remember what exactly I did to fix it. I know reinstalling the FPS helped and had to enabled factory behavior in ECMLink. I also upped my idle target in ECMLink to 800RPM.
  • I had a severe case of phantom knock. Everything I did was outlined in this thread:
    • PK was finally resolved by replacing the Hydraulic Lash Adjusters. It was night and day difference in performance.
  • Installed my new Walbro 255. It appeared the tank had never been opened before. I didn't have too much difficulty breaking free the fuel lines with a 14mm flare wrench and 19mm open end wrench.
    • Inside the tank looked immaculate and no corrosion anywhere I could see, even on the hanger. The OEM sock had very little debris on it. For 277k miles, I like what I saw.
    • Only difficult piece was removing the bottom philips head screw from the hanger to release the stock pump.
    • Used an EVO grommet instead of reusing the brittle piece of plastic on the pump outlet.
    • I was getting quite a lot of knock in the upper RPMs, and with only changing the pump it reduced significantly. So did my gas mileage :ohdamn:




  • Swapped my 1g MAF for an EVO 8 MAF and made appropriate change in ECMLink. It fits perfectly on the 1g intake snorkel. I had the boost set to about 15psi with the 1g MAF and I was seeing quite a lot of knock over 6000rpm. By only swapping to the EVO 8 MAF, I can now run to redline with almost no knock. So now I can turn up the boost MOAR!:hellyeah:

  • I eliminated a T in my FPR boost source for my boost gauge and moved the gauge over to the P port on the throttlebody.
  • Replaced a broken flex pipe in my downpipe. My welding skills really could use some work!
  • Before winter I bought and had installed some new Michelin Pilot Sport tires. Historically I've run Bridgestone's, Kumho's or Dunlop's but I like the handling of the Michelins much better!
  • Still need to install my new 1000cc FIC injectors.
    • I have an upcoming emissions test so I'll get that done before new injectors.
  • Brand new AEM wideband is on my workbench. I still need to weld the bung in my downpipe and install the gauge.
    • I bought a radio DIM gauge cluster but I don't like how the gauge sits in it so I will go with an A-pillar pod instead

Found a great deal on new 1g hatch struts. They are on wholesale closeout at Rockauto and cost me $7.54 each. Perfect fit too:

I can't tell you how long it's been since I could do this:
Found a great deal on new 1g hatch struts. They are on wholesale closeout at Rockauto and cost me $7.54 each. Perfect fit too:

I can't tell you how long it's been since I could do this:

Isn't that a great feeling? It's a like a DSMer rite of passage. Once you take the time to do this, you've arrived and you're a real DSM'er. Lol.
Isn't that a great feeling? It's a like a DSMer rite of passage. Once you take the time to do this, you've arrived and you're a real DSM'er. Lol.
Hell yes it is. So easy to fix but never at the top of the to-do list. You gotta take care of the small things once in a while.
Not exactly my first hatch strut rodeo. I just gave up trying ROFL
Emissions test complete for 2 more years. Close but it passed even with the original gas cap! The technician said these cars are his nemesis on the dyno rollers, mentioned they usually float around a lot but thanked me and said it was the smoothest DSM he's run. :hellyeah:
Just curious, are you still on the stock cat? I'm a little concerned about how they are going to treat my aftermarket 3" cat with the new CO rules, even though I have never had any issues passing the roller test.
I do not miss the emissions testing back when I lived in Denver, I tell you that much.

However, I do have a hilarious memory of my first turbo AWD DSM. It smoked like a chimney sometimes, and ran like crap. We went to get it emissions tested because if you fail(at that time at least) they'd give you a temp tag for like a week or so to get it fixed.

Turns out I had an exhaust leak too, and for whatever reason it leaked the perfect amount that day that the f*cker passed emissions on the second try and we were good for a couple years. ROFL
That’s 1 plus to living in Wyoming LOL, no cat? No problem:D

Same in Florida. If it has bumpers and working lights(including blinkers), then it's good to go. Exhaust straight out the hood? Basically just a gutted tin can racecar with lexan windows? Good to go, here's your sticker!
Wideband installed! It's the AEM x-series 30-0300 kit. This took the better part of a 3 day weekend working solo from start to finish including welding the bung to the downpipe. I ended up placing the sensor in the downpipe underneath the steering rack (fortunately it doesn't leak PS fluid) at about the 10-11 o'clock position. Routed the wiring harness between the crossmember and the firewall and through the steering boot. Then stood on my head underneath the dash while I tucked and snaked the sensor harness up to the A-pillar, and the power/data harness from the A-pillar to the ECU.
Next I wired into the ECU. AEM Red/12v to pin #107, black/ground to #106, white/analog 0.5v to #15 (EGR Temp), and brown/analog sensor ground to #24 (ECU sensor ground). This was absolutely no fun even after de-pining the four connectors since there was only about 1-2" of cable length to work with without pulling the harness loose. Alas, I got it all spliced in and applied heat shrink. I felt kind of bad splicing into this wiring harness since it was 100% unmolested. I just tried to be as clean as possible.
As I was researching using the EGR Temp pin #15 for logging, I kept running across this:
"1G ECU EGR Temp Input (ECU Pin 15) - Not 100% compatible with some sensors, such as the AEM WB"
Crap, I'm still running a Mitsu MAF, front o2, and coolant temp sensor so no other inputs are available. I decided to send it and see where it lands and hope this info is just outdated.
Got it all buttoned up with a new 2-gauge A-pillar pod installed.
Time for some ECMlink configuration. Again, using the EGR Temp input pin. There's 5 different AEM WB sensor options and I tested them all to see which gave the closest reading to the gauge. None seemed to be an exact match, but the "AEM Analog Wideband gauge" and "AEM Inline Wideband UEGO" were both pretty close. I chose to map it to the Analog WB gauge. I still need to get out and log it, but the "Not 100% compatible..." disclaimer doesn't seem to hold water.

Yikes! So this happened today and I lost 90% of the pedal. I was fortunate to be on 25mph streets with no traffic. Time for some new brake lines all the way around (and probably some new rear struts too).

I've been struggling keeping my gauge pod secured since I didn't want to drill into my a-pillar trim. I tried double-sided tape but the heat would let the adhesive peel right off.

So I made a metal band/clip out of an old windshield wiper refill to hold the pod in place:

Applied some black paint. Could still use some massaging to sit flat, but much better than a sagging pod.
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