1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

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Took vehicle to alignment shop yesterday. Need new front rack and pinion before they can start on it. I could tell but totally forgot cause the place is literally up the street and overlooked it/didn't think about it. I'm just so concerned about the rear.

I ordered one from rockauto yesterday. My aem fpr kit came in just now from map. My 2g maf609 and harness adapter arrived just now as well. I'm going to remove ecu here in a few and get it overlooked and install ecmlink. I'll try to send it out to them tomorrow.

 

[pieceofcloth]

I purchased the wrong hatch strut/lift. It'll cost too much to send back and the refund won't be worth it. I am looking to see if I can find a ball stud with the proper length or will I have to modify the strut to fit.

My original has the rounded torx bolt up top and I purchased the strut that accepts a ball stud.

I replaced the rack and pinion & got my vehicle aligned. it feels great. They mentioned some one misaligned the front subframe a bit so the vehicle has a slight pull to the right. It's not bad but I'll have to get under there to see what they're talking about. I was told to align the sub frame correctly and they'll fix the alignment. I only removed the transfer case, exhaust and sway bar. I don't know.

My vehicle builds a lot of pressure in the tank and with carbon filter removed, I checked the line. It was capped off so I placed the stock hose back on the hard line and have it pointing downwards like my silver gst. That should solve the pressure issue.

I drove for a good 20 mins and my fuel pump started crying. It sounds so ugly and I took it straight home. It's so loud. On inital start up and up to those 20 mins I never hear it. But as soon as I did I ran home. I don't want to test it, I'll remove it and check the sock and condition. Previous owner said he replaced it. It may be a walbro. I use detcheworks dw300 on my silver gst and will pick up another to replace this one here soon.

Other than that, it rides great and still in action.

 

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This past weekend I made time and replaced the fuel pump that was screaming at me. I still had fuel so maybe the sock was clogged up. I don't remember my oem filter looking like this when I replaced it on my other dsm.

These walbro fit pretty snug & just like stock on the oem fuel neck. My DeatschWerks dw350 doesn't of course so I had to cut the neck a bit and use the hose that came with it to connect it.i wired it up and primed it, and it started up perfectly fine. I let it run for a bit to check for leaks and everything seems fine. I haven't taken it out for a good drive in a minute cause it's soo soo hot in Texas right now. Maybe I'll give it a spin tomorrow afternoon.

 

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Drove the vehicle yesterday to the transmission shop. They told me another two weeks. I'm in no rush, plus they are my uncles friends and I don't want to come off rude.

This vehicle drove perfectly fine and my new fuel pump didn't make a sound throughout the trip. My volk crossmember was waiting for me at the front door as i returned.

Today I went ahead and tackled it out. I used this guide. Volk 1g crossmember install guide

It didn't take long at all. The difference in situation compared to the guide was that I had an engine inside already. Getting the front mount bracket to the crossmember wasn't difficult, I just had to raise the engine by the front mount bracket. I had it on the oil pan to keep the height the same but I believe I had to go up a tiny bit more so the bolt could pass through(mount on crossmember). I didn't want to raise it up by the pan. Here are a few pictures of the adventure.

 

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I purchased a boost gauge from ebay and I finally got around to installing it. I had purchased a manual boost controller as well. I went for a drive to see the gauge function and it doesn't. The lights work but not the gauge. It was missing a pin inside that moves the needle when air comes in.

I got a refund and purchased a different from Amazon. Tested it before hand and decided I didn't want to re do the wiring so I solder the ends of the new cable to the plug of the defected gauge so I would have to do much. Works great now. I went driving yesterday and did about 7 stops until I got it around 14psi. I think it's at its limit before fuel cut. I never hit it but I read that's about it.

I'll probably mark it with white marker and move a bit more to see if I can squeeze out some more air before the cut. Vehicle feels.great and drives strong.

 

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Yes my gauge is by my lap. I don't want to remove the vents because It'll take from the stock look. I purchased two of these 3d printed vent things from a site online. They came out alright but not something I'd install in this car. The old gauge was missing a pin that holds the two swinging arms. I just put a small piece of solder to hold it but it won't be accurate without the original pin. I just wanted to show you guys. The solder is twisted if you can't see it immediately.

 

[pieceofcloth]

I've been cleaning my garage for the past week now. I went in about 4 days ago and could smell gas. The tank from this 91 was dripping. I remember the previous owner saying he had patched it up but for whatever reason it was leaking again. I drained the tank and just finished pulling it out. I found a local shop that'll repair it for roughly 125. Clean and repair. I'm about to go drill it off now.


I also ordered those brass fittings for the shifter because mine have never been replaced and feel weird. Placed an ordered for some bolts to attach this fp manifold to the vehicle & While I'm under the vehicle, I'm going to go ahead replace the rear mustache bar. There are a few aftermarket ones so I'll order today.

I have a 14b installed now and a perfectly good 16g just sitting here. Should I just go ahead and swap out? I don't have a fmic yet so I'm undecided. I don't want the vehicle down for to long. It's one thing having one dsm down but two would hurt my head. I still need to get ecmlink, injectors and then the fmic. I guess then is when I'd put the new turbo on.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I’m curious how you end up liking the shifter bushings. Not sure if I just have a nut too tight somewhere or it’s supposed to be that way but it takes all “return” out of the shifter. It’s solid AF, but if you take it out of first and let it go, it stays right where you let it go. It doesn’t return to the center of neutral. Kinda weird. I’m hoping it’ll ease up more as the brass wears.

But yeah. That crossmember looks amazing. And I say don’t install the 16G yet. They creep like a SOB so controlling boost is gonna be a beeyotch. Wait to install the 16G when you get a way to tune.

 

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I've been super busy with this vehicle. Since the last post I've placed an fp manifold on it, replaced the water pipe with another I had. Plugged and removed water lines from turbo. I put my large 16g on here to replace the 14b. I also have an extra 1g awd exhaust from my original 90 red. I decided to put it on. I also had an aftermarket 02 housing with a wastegate dump. The gas tank came out clean and I only paid 125 for the clean and weld of the small leak.

Still haven't start it up because I'm trying to do all of this in one go instead of multiple down periods. Yeah it takes a shit load of patience and work but I'm doing it all in increments.

Decided to remove the center vents and put my gauges there. I added all three, boost, 02, and oil pressure. I extended and tied the wires together for a clean install. I labeled each end so I'll know where to install. I'll end up giving them power but will hook up co.pletely once I pick up ecmlink and put the wideband 02 in.

This car has definitely received a "stage" upgrade and I'm glad I was able to do this in this order. I still need to run a fused/relayed power wire to my distribution block so I can split the 12v up properly. The pump will get rewired correctly this time. New injectors, ecmlink and a front mount intercooler as well..


I hate having two dsm on stands but each are coming together nicely and once theyre rolling, ill be able to show off 2! Lol

 

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I also forgot to mention while removing exhaust I fought this stupid middle ring that took me forever to get out and had to replace a few studs on the head.

 

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I take this thing out maybe once month. The car squeaks all stupid when driving. It may be the damn bushings. It's embarrassing

The other day I added these aluminum tubes and a 2g maf/air intake. I really want this thing at 20 psi. I don't want to spend 500 on some 1000cc but I may have too.

I have ecmlink installed now and a 1g base map installed. The nipples on the throttle body need to be closed off. Im goin to reread or copy my other car here in a minute.

 

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It's been super hot so I've been laid back on this machine. I took it out for a spin the with new 2gmaf yesterday. My gauge was reading correctly but the laptop was stuck at 7:6.1 or something like that. When I took it up the road it was popping/backfiring so I brought it back home. A check engine code for knock sensor popped up. Great.

I had my wiring wrong down by the ecu for the LC2 wideband. I fixed it and now the gauge matches the laptop. With the code saying to replace my knock sensor, there's no use in driving this thing untill I get it fixed/replaced.

 

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Used a 24mm wrench from above.

 

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The new knock sensor just came in. I ordered it thru ebay. It's not an oem. If an oem pops up, I'll switch over but for now I need this vehicle to move.

It's about to pour down so I'll have to check out the driveability tomorrow.

 

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i purchased some fic 1000 injectors and got them installed. i went to their wiki and input the changes within ecmlink.

I don't know what to do from here. I got the car started and as soon as the vehicle hits temp, the ratio went to 20. I have the idle log and you'll see the change up. May I get some suggestions from this data please?

16g 6 bolt 80k, all oem with fic1000

Thank you

 

[CrackedDSM]

i purchased some fic 1000 injectors and got them installed. i went to their wiki and input the changes within ecmlink.

I don't know what to do from here. I got the car started and as soon as the vehicle hits temp, the ratio went to 20. I have the idle log and you'll see the change up. May I get some suggestions from this data please?

16g 6 bolt 80k, all oem with fic1000

Thank you

I’ll check the log when I get home but my FIC 1000’s were extremely weird. If it’s idling at 20’s AFR you’ll have to give it more positive dead times. More deadtime, more fuel at idle. Less deadtime, less fuel at idle.