14b turbo vacuum line?

[Kalisko]

Hey guys I just got done putting my transmission in, and everything is lining up but ONE thing.


I came across a vacuum line dangling. I came to the conclusion that it goes to my turbo, but A) I am not sure where exactly the vacuum line on the turbo is, and B) I'm not 100% sure.

So I've drawn up a small diagram to let you guys know exactly what is going on, as well as included a picture to show where I think the vacuum line COULD go into the turbo, IF that's where it's supposed to.

My vehicle is sputtering a bit at idle, and it also is building boost but not as much as it used to. So I hope you guys can point out this stuff for me . Thanks in advance!!

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-Will

 

[Loewen21]

Well i drive a 1g so my memory is somewhat foggy, but i beleive that on your car there should be a fitting on the turbo for that line. And it will be sputtering because that line not being attached is causing a boost leak

 

[kenamond]

Yes.

That vaccuum line goes onto the turbo compressor housing or j-pipe. I'm a 2g owner, so I don't know the exact details of a 14b, but I think the j-pipe has the nipple on it, and that's what you have circled in the picture. DON'T drive the car at full boost until you get that reconnected or you have no boost control. It may seem like it's not boosting as much, but as you have it, there is nothing limiting your boost. Overboosting can total the motor. Connect that line up and see if boost peaks out where it used to.
EDIT: And as Loewen21 said, you have a vaccuum leak that will make you run a tad bit lean. That open line will suck air in past the MAF (the intake pipe is below atmospheric pressure, so it'll draw air in from the engine bay through that vaccuum line that the ECU doesn't know about).

 

[Kalisko]

alright.

Well I forgot to inform you guys that it is a 6-bolt motor.
That hole where I have the hose in that picture actually has threads too..does it have a nipple that threads into there?

Is it possible to get a picture or something of the turbo and where the line is supposed to go? I've been searching for a couple of days and can't seem to find an exact spot to make sure that's where it hooks up to.

Thanks guys !

 

[kenamond]

The silver, snail-shaped housing with the wastegate actuator bolted to it is the compressor housing. The inlet is in the middle, and the outlet is at the end of the spiral. Then there's a "j-pipe" bolted to the outlet that has a tube clamped to it. That tube connects to an intercooler. The open vaccuum line you're trying to figure out must connect to a nipple that is at or near the outlet of the compressor. It looks like your picture was taken from underneath the car, and it looked like there was a nipple on the j-pipe right at the flange. If that was a picture of your car (not one you found somewhere online), then you just have to put the vaccuum line on that nipple. Usually, it's just a barbed tip so that the vaccuum line can be clamped to the nipple and won't slide off. If it has threads, I don't know what kind of nipple is on there. You might be able to remove the nipple (should be a hex fitting at the nipple's base), take it to the hardware store, and find a barbed fitting that has the same threads and the correct diameter nipple/tip for the vaccuum line.

 

[MrBoxx]

I just looked at my 14b compressor housing. The hole you have that plastic nipple plugged into? It doesn't extend into the compressor housing interior at all. In other words, it's not giving you a boost source. On the 14b, the vacuum/boost source for the BCS/MBC is on the metal J-pipe. You'll need to drill and tap that J-pipe and install a barbed fitting for a boost source. Or purchase an aftermarket J-pipe with a fitting already in it.

Once that's figured out, I would cap the nipple on the intake pipe, and simply run a vacuum line from the compressor/j-pipe to the wastegate actuator until you get an MBC. As kenamond mentioned, do NOT drive your car in a boost condition until a good boost source to the WG actuator has been established.

Edit: For clarification, that threaded hole near the J-pipe flange does NOT pass through to the inside of the compressor housing. There should be two of these threaded holes. I have no idea what their original intended purpose was, but you cannot put a fitting in them and get a boost source from them. I suppose if you drilled through it you might be able to, but the hole would come dangerously close to the face of the flange and might result in a bad seal or possible cracking of the flange.

 

[kenamond]

Here's an article showing how to tap a compressor housing for a boost source nipple.

Tapping Compressor Housing - Dsmwiki

 

[MrBoxx]

My mistake, Mack. I was thinking of the other threaded bolt hole on the compressor outlet, the one that angles towards the flange. The other bolt hole, the one you show drilling and tapping, actually would work very well for a boost source, as it goes straight into the compressor outlet.

 

[Kalisko]

okay , So I took my air filter back off to examine the turbo housing/j-pipe. Now I am stumped. I'm not the one who put the motor in my car, therefore I don't know where this damn thing went before.

Here is a picture of the setup after I got the car back awhile ago after they put the motor in.. I JUST happened to find it. It looks like they routed the line to somewhere else??
Now my question is where else could you T that line off to?
The boost solenoid has a line connected to it, as well as my BOV, air intake, etc.


Please helped I'm stumped now.

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[JusMX141]

How is your intercooler piping run? The normal j-pipe appears to be modified in such a way that you cannot connect the vacuum fitting to it, but it appears to be running UP instead of DOWN like it should.

 

[Kalisko]

it's a FMIC ant the piping goes over my exhaust manifold with heatwrap and down to my front bumper. then back up the passenger bumper through a hole near my wheelwell, then to the Intake.

 

[danielbui]

okay , So I took my air filter back off to examine the turbo housing/j-pipe. Now I am stumped. I'm not the one who put the motor in my car, therefore I don't know where this damn thing went before.

Here is a picture of the setup after I got the car back awhile ago after they put the motor in.. I JUST happened to find it. It looks like they routed the line to somewhere else??
Now my question is where else could you T that line off to?
The boost solenoid has a line connected to it, as well as my BOV, air intake, etc.


Please helped I'm stumped now.

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That picture above has 2 bolt on the turbo that leads to a pipe that leads to your intercooler. 2 options (1) tap that for a bunge for a barbed fitting get it welded, that will be your vaccum port (2) grab a vaccum line from the manifold not you BOV line and T it with your current line.

Original 6bolt motors have a nipple right off the the J-pipe from the turbo and since yours is aftermarket or Mocked the original installers looks to have tied all your vaccum sources together. So you also might have another problem on your hands aswell. Vaccum and Boost leak. Re-run all your Vaccum lines and check for boost leaks that should help alot of your studder problems.

 

[Kalisko]

Alright after staring at it nonstop, I can't figure out where it went. So I am going to pop off that j-pipe and make a nipple there. My main concern was trying to figure out where they ran that line so I can make sure it's covered up, or used.

Thanks for all the help guys .

 

[MrBoxx]

We just told you where the line went to. That J-pipe you have is an OEM 1st gen J-pipe. However, it appears to be much shorter (i.e. modified by being cut shorter), which resulted in losing the original nipple that was on there. You can drill and tap that J-pipe, or you can drill and tap the compressor housing. Or you can drill and tap the lower intercooler pipe before the intercooler.

 

[Kalisko]

What I'm saying is I think when the shop threw my motor in, they didn't hook up the line there. that's why I attached that one picture. It looked to be routed somewhere ELSE. So I was just trying to figure out where THEY could've routed it, not where it goes STOCK or SHOULD be.

 

[kenamond]

The stock setup is as follows:
Vaccuum line from the compressor outlet nipple (what's missing on your car) to a Tee fitting. The Tee fitting goes two places.
First place it goes is to the WGA nipple (the bronze/brass "can" bolted to the compressor housing).
Second place it goes is to the BCS (boost control solenoid) under the coolant reservoir and bolted to the passenger frame rail. This has two nipples.
Second BCS nipple goes to the bottom of the stock intake pipe.

So you can track whateverthehell those guys hooked up, but if you still use the stock BCS, you should set it up as I described above.

Looking at your first cartoon in your first post, that dead-end vaccuum line goes to the compressor housing or j-pipe (the nipple you have to add).

Below is a link that shows the basic bleeder-style setup for our cars. The "bleeder MBC" in that picture can be the stock BCS.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...l-turbosmart-tee-style-bleeder-style-mbc.html

 

[Kalisko]

The only problem, with my BCS, It has one nipple...
Well I'll officially end my questions here. you have all been very helpful, and I understand vacuum lines 100 times more fluently now. i'll just have to find a regular stock BCS and re-do the whole vacuum line setups. as well as tap into that j-pipe.

Thank again guys!

 

[danielbui]

The only problem, with my BCS, It has one nipple...
Well I'll officially end my questions here. you have all been very helpful, and I understand vacuum lines 100 times more fluently now. i'll just have to find a regular stock BCS and re-do the whole vacuum line setups. as well as tap into that j-pipe.

Thank again guys!

just get a MBC and bypass the BCS

 

[Boost92awd]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html

 

[Kalisko]

Okay, I know how they're supposed to go. I'm asking if this is ok..due to having an actual nipple right by my throttle body. This is how the shop ran the lines it seems. If not i'll plug the nipple up by my throttle body, and I'll tap into the j-pipe by my turbo.

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[danielbui]

I don't see why not unless the line is cut or brittle. I still say you still need to do a boost leak test after you get this re-ran.

 

[kenamond]

Okay, I know how they're supposed to go. I'm asking if this is ok..due to having an actual nipple right by my throttle body. This is how the shop ran the lines it seems. If not i'll plug the nipple up by my throttle body, and I'll tap into the j-pipe by my turbo.

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The "wiring" in the image is better than no boost control at all, but I'd get a boost source on the compressor outlet or j-pipe. The link I provided for putting a nipple on the compressor housing is the "over-achiever" solution; there are threads for putting the nipple in a j-pipe with jb-weld that are much easier to do and don't require you to pull the compressor housing off, though you'd still have to take the j-pipe off to drill/glue (metal shavings in your intake are bad). A good in-between solution would be to get someone to weld a bung onto the j-pipe and thread a hardware-store nipple into it.

Also, for $50, you can get a good MBC and bypass the stock, broken BCS. Leave the BCS on the car and plugged in (but not connected via vaccuum lines to anything) or the ECU will throw a code. Then you'll be able to increase boost past stock levels later (with supporting mods and a logger).

 

[danielbui]

I second that motion ^^^^^^^^