100 watt high beams

[ryztriumph]

I've done a bit of searching and I cannot find a clear, recent answer. I am looking to run Phillips rally 100 watt 9005 bulbs in my high beams, with regular 55w in the lows. Some people say the stock harness will handle it, some say it will fry. I also read, due to the excess heat, that it will cause my lenses to fog up and possibly turn brown.

Does anyone run 100 w in their highs? Should I upgrade my wiring harness? What gauge is the stock harness?

Also, I was looking at some 100w fog h3 bulbs. Same questions for these, could the stock harness handle these?

 

[Spector5]

I would get ahold of the company and grab a schematics, there's ways around it with relays.

But remember your car was engineered with the operate fuse(Amerage size), wiring and so on. So make sure that with the added Amerage draw that your not going to melt wires and so on. If even on person told me it happen, I'd tend to steer clear of it. Or atleast find a way to safely run the bulbs.

I actually just had a electronics class on it, and you would not believe how many times people burn stuff up from running higher output bulbs. Actually, we had a n/t turbo eclipse that fryed a bunch of stuff because he switched over to the halogens.

 

[stars]

I would get ahold of the company and grab a schematics, there's ways around it with relays.

But remember your car was engineered with the operate fuse(Amerage size), wiring and so on. So make sure that with the added Amerage draw that your not going to melt wires and so on. If even on person told me it happen, I'd tend to steer clear of it. Or atleast find a way to safely run the bulbs.

I actually just had a electronics class on it, and you would not believe how many times people burn stuff up from running higher output bulbs. Actually, we had a n/t turbo eclipse that fryed a bunch of stuff because he switched over to the halogens.

First, just disregard this post not only because of the use of his grammar but, he has no clue as to what the school book says should happen; as opposed to really what does happen in real life.

You can run those bulbs, in fact you will need to upgrade the harness assembly to where they will plug into the factory connector, this is so that the connector can handle the point where the extra current will flow without a complete connector meltdown. Any light upgrade will need a wire connector upgrade, they usually do not come in the kits so you will have to special order one for your wire connector type or the particular type of bulb you want to use.

You will generate allot of extra heat so to combat that you may need to drill several small holes toward the base of your headlights. You want to give that moisture that builds up a place to escape and a place for air to enter. If you do not vent the lighting assembly then, yes; it will dry up and haze over. When the haze starts then they will crack from there on out, only needing to be replaced because they will not be the color "clear" any more..... I do like dark clear though but, it's hard to see when there is not a full moon.

I have been studying this exterior lighting subject for the past year and now on the market is these first generation L.E.D. bulbs. They are surpassing the regular filament and gas filled bulbs for their brightness and using like 1/4 of the electricity & virtually no heat. There is no additional wiring to add not to mention they last for 50K hours or more.

 

[Spector5]

First, just disregard this post not only because of the use of his grammar but, he has no clue as to what the school book says should happen; as opposed to really what does happen in real life.

You can run those bulbs, in fact you will need to upgrade the harness assembly to where they will plug into the factory connector, this is so that the connector can handle the point where the extra current will flow without a complete connector meltdown. Any light upgrade will need a wire connector upgrade, they usually do not come in the kits so you will have to special order one for your wire connector type or the particular type of bulb you want to use.

You will generate allot of extra heat so to combat that you may need to drill several small holes toward the base of your headlights. You want to give that moisture that builds up a place toK escape and a place for air to enter. If you do not vent the lighting assembly then, yes; it will dry up and haze over. When the haze starts then they will crack from there on out, only needing to be replaced because they will not be the color "clear" any more..... I do like dark clear though but, it's hard to see when there is not a full moon.

I have been studying this exterior lighting subject for the past year and now on the market is these first generation L.E.D. bulbs. They are surpassing the regular filament and gas filled bulbs for their brightness and using like 1/4 of the electricity & virtually no heat. There is no additional wiring to add not to mention they last for 50K hours or more.

Oh my bad, I didn't understand you were a engineer or the guy that wrote ohms law!

I can not stand people that try and rewrite specs or what a engineer with a degree and spends millions figuring out what component works best! However, don't listen to them because backyard joe snuffy with a degree in well "this is what other people say works(so pretty much hear say!"

My apologizes on my spelling. My bad, last time I remember it's not against the law to have a few cocktails!

I guess in a nutshell, instead of picking up a wiring diagram and figuring out what you can and can not run. Just go off of some guy that tinkers around with his car on the weekends! He knows best

Also, to end this none sense I was against it with running the stock wiring, so you say disregard my statement, but then go and say the same thing I said by telling him to get a new wiring Harness and connectors??? All you did I didn't was give him an aftermarket solution. I was merely explaining not to do it on stock components or wiring. There actually is no real difference between book and reality other than every car has different specs! I'm sure the reality and book will show you try and draw 40amps on a 20amp circuit(figuratively speaking) you WILL burn stuff up!

 

[stars]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/app...158956-re-wiring-headlights-support-100w.html

Found this thread dated about 8 years ago that asks the same question as the O.P. it pretty much sums up what I said in my post to the question. As long as you don't do something duhtarded like trying to run a 100w bulb from the low beam side all will be o.k.

At this point some people are paranoid and go ahead and do the wire upgrade. That is up to you, depends on your wiring skills. Just a standard 100w bulb on the high beam side will work on the factory harness.

Spector5 this forum is here for people to receive an answer to their questions. People like myself take time out of their day to answer someones electrical questions. I have 19 years experience in the Automotive Technology field. How many years do you have? I just think you should not be inclined to post something when your under the influence of "alcohol". Please wait until the effect wear off until you decide to post an intelligent answer back on this forum.

 

[estoyaqui30]

The wires in the headlight assembly (internally to the light, from the connector under the light to the bulb WILL burn up as will the connector that plugs on to the bulb! I was running PIAA 65w high beams not even 100w and after 2 months, I lost the high beams and found the plug melted and the wires with almost no insulation. The factory wiring is not rated for that much extra current draw.

 

[jtmcinder]

[subscribed ... to learn what "Amerage" is]

 

[TheWanderer]

Any time you go to a higher wattage bulb, you should consider upgrading the wiring as well. While you may be able to get away with running the stock wiring, it is not recommended. Consider after 15+ years of our cars being on the road and how many times the lights have been used. Current running through wires generates heat. Higher wattage bulbs more so.

Rather than running 100w bulbs, why not consider using HIR1 9011 bulbs instead? They remain stock wattage, however put out the equivalent of 95% light output of an HID with little to no increase in power consumtion, which will allow you to work with factory wiring. These also do not generate much more (if any) heat than stock bulbs, so you won't have to worry about yellowing out the lenses. These may be 9011 bulbs, but they have the same connector as the 9005, and with a minor modification to the plastic mounting tab (with a dremel or hacksaw), you can fit them in place of a 9005/9006(HIR2 9012). This is the planned setup for my 99 RS and I have run them on my Subaru's in the past. They may be more expensive than standard bulbs but they are well worth it.

Another option: If you don't want to spend the $$$ on HIR bulbs, look into the Phillips X-treme power 9006 bulbs. They are standard wattage +80% bulbs. When they say +80%, they really mean that they are that much brighter than stock bulbs, at the same wattage. It has to do with the gas mixture inside the bulb. The Phillips XP bulbs are also a much whiter light, so you will see a bigger difference. They usually run about $35 a pair.

Source of info: Hands on experience with HIR1 and HIR2 bulbs, as well as other automotive lighting while working with my friends at rallylights.com

 

[estoyaqui30]

That's actually a good idea. I too will look into that for the high beams. I see that there is some talk about genuine HIR1 and 9011 which they claim are slightly different from each other.

 

[ed1380]

If you want to have brighter lights, just run HID's. 100watt bulbs or HID's in a reflector housing will blind oncoming drivers. If you want to be a douche, then might as well do it for cheap.

 

[ryztriumph]

Any time you go to a higher wattage bulb, you should consider upgrading the wiring as well. While you may be able to get away with running the stock wiring, it is not recommended. Consider after 15+ years of our cars being on the road and how many times the lights have been used. Current running through wires generates heat. Higher wattage bulbs more so.

Rather than running 100w bulbs, why not consider using HIR1 9011 bulbs instead? They remain stock wattage, however put out the equivalent of 95% light output of an HID with little to no increase in power consumtion, which will allow you to work with factory wiring. These also do not generate much more (if any) heat than stock bulbs, so you won't have to worry about yellowing out the lenses. These may be 9011 bulbs, but they have the same connector as the 9005, and with a minor modification to the plastic mounting tab (with a dremel or hacksaw), you can fit them in place of a 9005/9006(HIR2 9012). This is the planned setup for my 99 RS and I have run them on my Subaru's in the past. They may be more expensive than standard bulbs but they are well worth it.

Source of info: Hands on experience with HIR1 and HIR2 bulbs, as well as other automotive lighting while working with my friends at rallylights.com

That actually does sound like a good idea. Those bulbs would defiantly be worth looking into.

I did end up trying out 100w in the fogs, and they have held up for quite some time now, seeing as I run with my fogs on all the time. I drove around with them on for a while when I first put them on and felt the wires and they were not any hotter than normal. I just ended up getting some Phillips 9005 65w for the highs, as they were only $10 a piece on Amazon. The light output is pretty good, and much better than the old yellowed Stanley bulbs that were in it.

Thanks for all the advice guys.

 

[TheWanderer]

Glad I could help guys Hope they work out for you, and feel free to let me know how you like em if you go that route Its certainly much cheaper than buying an HID retrofit kit, and a lot more legal than just putting HIDs in your stock housing (also less offensive to oncoming drivers, I know personally I have run into DSMers that do the HID kits and they really p*ss me off when they get behind me or I see them from the oncoming lane)

I've used both the Toshiba HIR bulbs as well as the Phillips, and will say that while I personally liked the Toshiba's best, the Phillips ones are leaps and bounds ahead of Toshiba in respects to longevity and output. They are a much whiter light than stock bulbs, so you will notice a big difference.

There is a difference to watch for as well between true HIRs and the ones that are listed as 9011 HIR on Amazon. The true HIRs run about $100 a pair (best price I have found at least) while the Phillips ones listed on Amazon at ~$18 each are HIR1 style 9011.

I am currently working on getting set up as a supporting vendor for rallylights, just got approval from the owner this week to talk to the forum mods, but in the meantime if anyone wants to order feel free to get in touch with me or give them a call and ask for Wil or Dave. Wil is no stranger to DSM's and lighting in general, he owns a 96 GSX personally and runs these in his car.

Edit: I should note that the Toshiba bulbs are no longer manufactured, the technology/patents having been bought by Phillips and improved on, and are very hard to come by. I can almost guarantee that you will not find them anywhere for less than the price of a new kidney.

 

[estoyaqui30]

I'm running HIDs on low beams in a full blown retrofit. Factory light, Morimoto H1 mini projectors, Morimoto threefive ballasts. I'd like to kick up the high beams.

Where is a good place to get the real HIR1's ? Not the 9011's

 

[TheWanderer]

I'm running HIDs on low beams in a full blown retrofit. Factory light, Morimoto H1 mini projectors, Morimoto threefive ballasts. I'd like to kick up the high beams.

Where is a good place to get the real HIR1's ? Not the 9011's

send me a PM and I'll do what I can to help you out