The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2G Cruise control deleted Throttle Cable issues

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SixBolt_16G

20+ Year Contributor
1,111
1,108
Nov 7, 2005
Illinois
6bolt swapped 2g with cruise control delete.
Problem has been replicated with 3 different throttle cables. 95 Hyundai elantra, Pioneer 8919, ATP 2g noncruise control cable.

Ever since i got my car back from the shop that i had the falling out with (its nothing that they did, but they did do the delete so i have limited info other than it being done), Ive had this ongoing issue with the throttlebody hanging open 2-5% when i step off the gas. Its not noticeable with light acceleration, but the more i get out of vacuum and close to boost, the more pronounced it is. Going into boost send the RPMS an additional 500rpms or so between shifts. I assume its from the additional air being forced it as its left slightly open. Letting off the gas and into neutral, the rpms will drop to around 2000rpms and hang there. It may or may not return to normal idle. If i come to a complete stop, reach down and pull up on the gas pedal, the rpms will return to normal idle speed. I can see it going on in the ECMLink logs where the throttle hangs and then drops to 0 when i pull up. it can be replicated by revving in place with the pedal, but not when revving it from the butterfly. The first blip in the image is tapping the accelerator then immediately pull it up. The second is the same without pulling up immediately and then eventually putting it and returning to normal idle. (Included the whole log at the end of the post if it will help)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


What I know so far:
  • ECMLink shows a 2-5% throttle position letting off the gas when driving around depending on how much i come out of vacuum.
  • Pulling up on the pedal returns the throttle position to 0% in ECMLink and drops the RPMS to its normal idle speed.
  • Revving at the butterfly with and without the cable attached does not replicate the issue. It makes me think its NOT the throttlebody itself.
  • No matter how much i adjust the cable brackets on the intake manifold, they all just seems too long by a small amount and the same amount.
  • I thought the length of the cable was the issue but its not. Elantra 65" The Pioneer is 71" the ATP is 65". It cant be adjusted enough to tighten at the pedal. but the effect isnt any worse with the 71" vs the 65" Exact same problem with all of them, by what seems like the same amount of slack. Seems like other people have used these cables without issue and without modification when i look through the threads.
  • Throttlebody was rebuilt, previous to the cruise control being removed. I cant remember if there were issues between that time and the delete because I had an issue with all of the exhaust/turbo manifold gaskets and o2 housing gasket leaking which was screwing up my idle too (All of which are fixed.)
Admittedly, I dont know enough about our throttle system to know whether it is the cable, the accelerator pedal or somehow the throttle body. I assumed the way it works is that the throttle plate closing retracts the cable and pulls the pedal back into rest position. Mine retracts but the pedal just seems so much looser when compared to my Prelude and can be wiggled in its rest position. On the Prelude it snaps back hard and fast when releasing the pedal and has zero play.

I guess my outstanding questions would be:
  • Is there any way to adjust the overall lengths of the cables that I might not know about other than the bracket at the intake manifold?
  • Are there any parts in the accelerator pedal assembly that might be broken, like a spring or something that helps it retract back when stepping off the gas?
  • Should i just cut the slack out, solder the barrel back on and be done with it?

TIA
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited:
If the throttle body is the stock and if you rebuilt the throttle body recently then I would check for the return spring position first. Is the white paint on the return spring lined up straight?
There is a chance that you didn't put back the return spring properly. If so, that would make less tension to pull to shut the throttle plate and cause like the issue you have.
 
If the throttle body is the stock and if you rebuilt the throttle body recently then I would check for the return spring position first. Is the white paint on the return spring lined up straight?
There is a chance that you didn't put back the return spring properly. If so, that would make less tension to pull to shut the throttle plate and cause like the issue you have.
I think im going to take this throttlebody off and examine it since Im going to be putting the car up anyway. I wasnt the one who rebuilt it, so i cant confidently say that it was done right and considering this car was given back to me as a disaster and ive rebuilt everything else myself, i guess it will just be another thing to do to be absoutely sure. But the reason i didnt suspect it as the issue is because the pedal just seems so loose. Even when the throttle body is 100% closed, the cables really do seem a tad too long. But id hate to modify a cable and find out theres still a throttlebody problem.
 
I've used the ATP 1g cable on several 2g's and I can't say the length has ever been an issue. I as well would suggest checking the return spring, lack of adequate tension can cause this. The 2g pedal always seems a little on the loose side in my experience.
 
I was able to take it off before work. What is it that im looking for and where am i looking at @DSMPT @jdxnc ? Im very much still an amateur at this.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited:
I was able to take it off before work. What is it that im looking for and where am i looking at @DSMPT @jdxnc ? Im very much still an amateur at this.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
2G throttle body may not have the white paint. Sorry maybe it's only 1g.
Anyways what I meant is the return springs may have been installed back with one twist less and that is causing the plate closing weaker. I see 15 outer spring coils on your throttle body and the hook part raised too high.
Please check the pics below. That's an early EVO throttle body (I believe those use the same springs) but I count 16 outer spring coils and the hook is lower. So I believe this is your issue. You need to twist the spring(s) one more time.

How hard the plate close when you release the spring? Usually it will close really hard/strong.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
How hard the plate close when you release the spring? Usually it will close really hard/strong.
The plate does snap back really hard when i release it. When i was running the test and revving it in place from the butterfly, it didnt have a problem closing all the way with and without the cable attached. It snapped back every time and verified in ECMLink that it was going back to 0% throttle position. Its only with the pedal release that im seeing it. One of the things ive been questioning is whether my 6 bolt swap has anything to do with it...maybe the positition sitting a little different than it would if it were a 7 bolt because it really does seem like the cable is just a hair to long. I think all of the people that ive seen use these cables were either full 1g or full 2g.

Can you elaborate a little more on what you mean by the hooked part is raised too high? Is it where the little green wire is and youre saying that it wont stick up as high if i wind it around 1 more time?
 
Last edited:
The absolute length of the cable won't matter other than for routing since it's the amount of movement the inside cable makes that effects how much the throttle butterfly moves. Without changing either the pedal assembly or the crank on the throttle body shaft the length the inner cable moves doesn't change.

As Hiroshi has pointed out the most likely issue is the return spring but any binding of the shaft or butterfly in the bore can also cause issue like this.
 
+1 On the return spring, I had an issue recently with the butterfly hanging open while revving and after rebuilding the throttle body. Sent it to Shaun Werning and wrote him a note, he said that my return spring was not wound up correctly. I did notice that even rotating the spring one time, it would snap shut pretty well.
 
Can you elaborate a little more on what you mean by the hooked part is raised too high? Is it where the little green wire is and youre saying that it wont stick up as high if i wind it around 1 more time?
Yes, that part green circled. One more twist should make that protrusion lower by making the spring diameter smaller.
And you can see in your pic that your throttle body's outer spring coil number is 15 and mine is 16. This means you are missing one more twist when installed it. Less twist means less tension to return back.
The last pic is the springs in neutral without twisting, the outer (larger) spring coil count is 14.

Another point to see is you can see in you pic that your outer spring diameter is larger than the white plastic base and my throttle body's outer spring diameter is smaller (the same height as the white plastic base), which means your spring is loose.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Okay, i definitely see what you guys are talking about after looking at the spring and counting the winds. So to twist it, I take the arm off, grab the end of the spring and twist it around the cylinder back into its locking position?
 
Last edited:
How do i rotate it? Do i take the arm off and turn the entire coil and the white cylinder underneath? or do i need to grab the end of the spring and twist it around the coil back into position?
If you remove the 12mm nut in the pic, the one on the pulley, the pulley and springs can come out. Instal the springs as they should and put back the pulley. Sometimes the pulley is stuck, in that case gently tap or/and pry.
It's not difficult but to hook the springs back with the right tension is kinda hard, you would need some technic to hold and hook the springs. I am sure you will find your own way, just take your time.
 
Sanity check before reinstall

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Do you feel the difference from before?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top