SixBolt_16G
20+ Year Contributor
- 1,111
- 1,108
- Nov 7, 2005
-
Illinois
6bolt swapped 2g with cruise control delete.
Problem has been replicated with 3 different throttle cables. 95 Hyundai elantra, Pioneer 8919, ATP 2g noncruise control cable.
Ever since i got my car back from the shop that i had the falling out with (its nothing that they did, but they did do the delete so i have limited info other than it being done), Ive had this ongoing issue with the throttlebody hanging open 2-5% when i step off the gas. Its not noticeable with light acceleration, but the more i get out of vacuum and close to boost, the more pronounced it is. Going into boost send the RPMS an additional 500rpms or so between shifts. I assume its from the additional air being forced it as its left slightly open. Letting off the gas and into neutral, the rpms will drop to around 2000rpms and hang there. It may or may not return to normal idle. If i come to a complete stop, reach down and pull up on the gas pedal, the rpms will return to normal idle speed. I can see it going on in the ECMLink logs where the throttle hangs and then drops to 0 when i pull up. it can be replicated by revving in place with the pedal, but not when revving it from the butterfly. The first blip in the image is tapping the accelerator then immediately pull it up. The second is the same without pulling up immediately and then eventually putting it and returning to normal idle. (Included the whole log at the end of the post if it will help)
What I know so far:
I guess my outstanding questions would be:
TIA
Problem has been replicated with 3 different throttle cables. 95 Hyundai elantra, Pioneer 8919, ATP 2g noncruise control cable.
Ever since i got my car back from the shop that i had the falling out with (its nothing that they did, but they did do the delete so i have limited info other than it being done), Ive had this ongoing issue with the throttlebody hanging open 2-5% when i step off the gas. Its not noticeable with light acceleration, but the more i get out of vacuum and close to boost, the more pronounced it is. Going into boost send the RPMS an additional 500rpms or so between shifts. I assume its from the additional air being forced it as its left slightly open. Letting off the gas and into neutral, the rpms will drop to around 2000rpms and hang there. It may or may not return to normal idle. If i come to a complete stop, reach down and pull up on the gas pedal, the rpms will return to normal idle speed. I can see it going on in the ECMLink logs where the throttle hangs and then drops to 0 when i pull up. it can be replicated by revving in place with the pedal, but not when revving it from the butterfly. The first blip in the image is tapping the accelerator then immediately pull it up. The second is the same without pulling up immediately and then eventually putting it and returning to normal idle. (Included the whole log at the end of the post if it will help)
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
What I know so far:
- ECMLink shows a 2-5% throttle position letting off the gas when driving around depending on how much i come out of vacuum.
- Pulling up on the pedal returns the throttle position to 0% in ECMLink and drops the RPMS to its normal idle speed.
- Revving at the butterfly with and without the cable attached does not replicate the issue. It makes me think its NOT the throttlebody itself.
- No matter how much i adjust the cable brackets on the intake manifold, they all just seems too long by a small amount and the same amount.
- I thought the length of the cable was the issue but its not. Elantra 65" The Pioneer is 71" the ATP is 65". It cant be adjusted enough to tighten at the pedal. but the effect isnt any worse with the 71" vs the 65" Exact same problem with all of them, by what seems like the same amount of slack. Seems like other people have used these cables without issue and without modification when i look through the threads.
- Throttlebody was rebuilt, previous to the cruise control being removed. I cant remember if there were issues between that time and the delete because I had an issue with all of the exhaust/turbo manifold gaskets and o2 housing gasket leaking which was screwing up my idle too (All of which are fixed.)
I guess my outstanding questions would be:
- Is there any way to adjust the overall lengths of the cables that I might not know about other than the bracket at the intake manifold?
- Are there any parts in the accelerator pedal assembly that might be broken, like a spring or something that helps it retract back when stepping off the gas?
- Should i just cut the slack out, solder the barrel back on and be done with it?
TIA
Attachments
You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited: