This one?

Man this reminds me to program the damn remote. It’s been sitting in the armrest since I bought it

I bought the remote but I can't get my aftermarket actuators to work sadly.

99eclipsegs-2t said:

This one?

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Yep! Never saw this for some reason got one on the way!

Welp new receiver is either bad or something else is going on. Swapped in the "new" one and still no dice. Cannot get into program mode

It's interesting to me that I bought one recently and you did as well and neither of us can get them to work. Wonder if a bad batch got produced.

techboy said:

It's interesting to me that I bought one recently and you did as well and neither of us can get them to work. Wonder if a bad batch got produced.

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I don't think that's my issue. I can't even get my car to enter program mode to even sync the remote.

make sure the power locks are fully functional before you try programming a new remote. both doors should look and unlock

if the door locks dont function make sure you check the fuse box in the drivers side footwell. it is the power locks fuse, it also serves as the power feed for the obd2 port.

the very early 95 cars have a switch on the rfid receiver that is behind the drivers seat in front of the rear speaker. there is a "program" switch you need to click over to program a new fob.

again this "replacement key fob remote" isnt the savior of the dsm keyless entry woes. it has better range than an oem key fob (i would say its a ten foot range compared to oem being standing at the car)

aftermarket keyless entry kits (and alarms) are very basic to wire and available at most car stereo shops for installation. i have had them installed on a few second gens and its a night and day difference and might be worth the $200-$300 the stereo shops charge to install.

as far as my original red ebay fob, its been a few years now and both cars still work with them. my only issue has been that I tried to paint the key fob with a proper process and the epoxy for the key fob isn't paintable plastic. it melted when paint was applied to it.

Also to note that when trying to enter sync mode to close the doors. I had my driver door open when I was trying to sync my fobs and it wouldn't do anything. Closed the door and bam it worked perfect.

Am I missing the module to program a fob?

I'd thought I'd taken a picture of one in my car but I can't find it and I'd rather not pull off panels at the moment. This is what it looks like. Both the module and the relay attach to a mounting plate and then you'll have two connectors. It'll be under the pillar trim piece on the left side that covers the belt and mechanism.

chrisman287 said:

Am I missing the module to program a fob?

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If that’s the drivers side then you’re missing a few pieces

chrysler kid said:

If that’s the drivers side then you’re missing a few pieces

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Ok so I got one from a 98 Talon but mine is a 95. I didn’t give programming a try yet

chrisman287 said:

Ok so I got one from a 98 Talon but mine is a 95. I didn’t give programming a try yet

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You should be ok, in some of the manuals and instructions the 95 module has a switch on the module for programming, however in all of the previous threads I have not seen anyone actually have a switch on the module.

As mentioned before make sure your power locks are 100% functional before you try to program the key fob

Also last time I checked eBay I was unable to find the red key fob, I’m not sure if they are still available

The fobs are still on eBay and alibaba.

Search for “GQ43VT6T”


I just bought another one for my latest second gen project car

Also since I’m stupid and didn’t directly link the actual process of programming the remote; here is the link

Dsmkauai said:

1. Locate the Data Port.


2. Insert keys in ignition and leave in the OFF position.


3. Make sure there are metal contact pins in terminals 1 and 4 and connect the Data Port with a suitable jumper wire, leave jumper wire connected throughout the programming procedure. Make sure you know which terminals are 1 and 4.


4. Within 10 seconds after connecting the jumper wire, turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then back to OFF. Note: The doors will automatically lock and unlock once at this time indicating that the system is in the programming mode.


5. Press the LOCK button on the transmitter to be registered three times within 10 seconds. Upon successful programming, the door will lock and unlock once.


6. If there are two remotes, register the first, then register the second. Repeat step 5 within one minute to program second remote. After completing the second programming, the doors will lock and unlock once.


7. Disconnect the programming wire and remove the keys from the ignition

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No matter what I do, I can’t get it into programming mode. Everything else works perfectly.

Detail said:

No matter what I do, I can’t get it into programming mode. Everything else works perfectly.

Click to expand...

Very early production 95 model cars had a switch on the keyless module to put the car in programming mode. You would need to removed the drivers rear trim to expose the module to see if there is a switch on it

So today I made a discover which will help with the breaking of door handles when everyone thinks their door is unlocked. I’m sure this has been done before but all I did is take the keyless entry module out open it up and rub off some of the coating on the internal antenna too expose the copper trace used as an “antenna”. Some report having pretty much be touching the windshield with the key fob before it unlocked it or locked it as I did also. OK back to it after that was exposed a nice shiny copper. I went ahead and soldered about a 10 inch piece of small wire kind of the same as you would see in a aftermarket alarm set up coming out of the brain. In testing I found I could be at least 50 feet away from my car now and the key fob operate fantastically. Will post pics. Right now.

I know this is an older thread but has anyone got one of these remotes to program lately? I see the last couple people to post weren't able to and I'm having no luck either. 97 gsx bone stock and my door locks work, doors closed, hood closed, trunk closed. Im able to get it into programming mode (jumper pins, key to acc then off and my doors lock and then unlock) but when I press the button on the remote nothing happens. Popped the cover off the remote and it does have a red LED in it thats lighting up when I press buttons.

I never got mine to work. Tried several times and methods snd eventually gave up. Its still in the box it came in and I just use my key.

Devilsfutbol17 said:

I know this is an older thread but has anyone got one of these remotes to program lately? I see the last couple people to post weren't able to and I'm having no luck either. 97 gsx bone stock and my door locks work, doors closed, hood closed, trunk closed. Im able to get it into programming mode (jumper pins, key to acc then off and my doors lock and then unlock) but when I press the button on the remote nothing happens. Popped the cover off the remote and it does have a red LED in it thats lighting up when I press buttons.

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Yes, I bought 2 more key fob remotes and programmed them both a few months ago. I now have 2 of them programmed to my 96 Gst and I programmed another one to my 1999 eclipse Gst

I wasn’t able to paint them so I wrapped the red case shells in white

Make sure your power locks are fully functional, both doors lock and unlock fully. Make sure the key cylinders in the door are correctly seated in the door handles.

The final step is to make sure the sensor inside the door on the back of the key cylinders are fully attached and working correctly. If they are not fully attached the module will sense the cylinders in the wrong direction. If I recall correctly on one of my cars with a damaged lock cylinder sensor I just unplugged the sensor from the harness on the door and the fob was able to be programmed

To be clear, installing an aftermarket alarm or keyless entry module is a hundred times more responsive than the factory keyless system. They are kinda tricky to install, all of the door lock and unlock wires are under the driver’s side behind the firebox and they are extremely thin wires in a cramped spot