2G Throttle Body Sticking

kyler021 · 2026-06-16T14:13:08-0500

Hey all,

I recently rebuilt my throttle body with new shaft seals and a FIAV delete, and now my throttle plate seems to stick. Seems simple, but the weird thing is it only sticks when the engine is turned on. I can't get the throttle plate to stick when the car is off. It doesn't even feel hard to open/close. I'll get some resistance when the car is on around 5-10% throttle but it pushes past nicely after that. Another thing I noticed is that when I turn the car off while the throttle is sticking, I'll go to the engine bay to pull it back to it's resting position and it's already there. (I know this isn't a vacuum leak or anything of the sort because DSMlink will display the throttle position when I turn the engine off and it's greater than 0%.)

TPS and IAC were working normally prior to teardown. Throttle body blade is at the correct orientation, no gouges on throttle body surface.

Things I've tried:
Loosening throttle cable
Lubricating shaft seals and shaft with silicone dielectric grease
Throttle body shaft was wet sanded to remove the gray debris that was on it
Boost leak test at the throttle body showed no visible leaks

Is it possible that I tightened the nuts on the shaft too tight? I couldn't find torque specs anywhere so I just counted the threads on the pictures I had and set it to there. I'm not even sure what else to look for... Something around the FIAV maybe? Help me out guys!

Thanks!
Kyle

Anthony Hornback · 2026-06-16T14:34:31-0500

So it wants to stick closed? If so, is your throttle stop set to low?

kyler021 · 2026-06-16T14:42:55-0500

Anthony Hornback said:
So it wants to stick closed? If so, is your throttle stop set to low?

Wow it would've been helpful if I included that in the original post haha, but when it sticks it'll stick slightly open. So it'll rev up to like 2000-2500 and stay there.

I am looking at videos and pictures again, and it looks like everyone puts the flush with the side of the ring thing that the seal pushes into. Would it be bad if they're recessed into the seat? Could that be putting too much pressure on the throttle body shaft causing it to catch and stick open?
Another possibility is that I never messed with the throttle stop... could that also be an issue?

Kyle

Anthony Hornback · 2026-06-16T14:46:03-0500

kyler021 said:
Wow it would've been helpful if I included that in the original post haha, but when it sticks it'll stick slightly open. So it'll rev up to like 2000-2500 and stay there.

I am looking at videos and pictures again, and it looks like everyone puts the flush with the side of the ring thing that the seal pushes into. Would it be bad if they're recessed into the seat? Could that be putting too much pressure on the throttle body shaft causing it to catch and stick open?
Another possibility is that I never messed with the throttle stop... could that also be an issue?

Kyle

Not sure on if you can overtighten those.
I do have the experience of having my stop set wrong and sticking closed as well as being hard to start open.
Did you mark your springs before you took it apart? I doubt this would cause anything, just wondering

FIBA M - EC17PSE · 2026-06-16T14:56:31-0500

What you have is the shaft nuts too tight and not central either. Once the casting warms up it expands a bit and jams. I have had this before and was 1/4 nut turn too tight LOL

small amount bit jams it.

Can check that and it is central with a light behind the TB to view it.
The lther thing is jamming when closed means the throttle stop is to far back. If you release it slamming shut and it jams its to fsr out and needs to just be allowed open but following the oem soecs is a good first step on that tiny screw

Anthony Hornback · 2026-06-16T14:59:29-0500

FIBA M - EC17PSE said:
What you have is the shaft nuts too tight and not central either. Once the casting warms up it expands a bit and jams. I have had this before and was 1/4 nut turn too tight small amount bit jams it.

Can check that and it is central with a light behind the TB to view it.
The lther thing is jamming when closed means the throttle stop is to far back. If you release it slamming shut and it jams its to fsr out and needs to just be allowed open but following the oem soecs is a good first step on that tiny screw

Needed a Pro in here to shed some light!

FIBA M - EC17PSE · 2026-06-16T17:08:41-0500

Anthony Hornback said:
Needed a Pro in here to shed some light!

Hopefully, you can resolve this, but doing it on the car can be done but might not be as precise. Ideally off the car is more ideal. Then you can clearly see the gap surrounding the plate. You will be fine and the small amount of widdle in the bar means it is working ok.

Snapping back and not jamming is the check I always do when I rebuild them so make sure to add this check at the end.

USMCGSX · 2026-06-16T17:10:28-0500

It might just be the way I reassemble my throttles after a rebuild, but I had that same problem a couple of times and it drove me nuts. There's other possible reasons that can happen, but what worked for me was to loosen the two throttle plate screws a hair, then clap the throttle a few times, tighten one screw then clap it again a couple times and tighten the other screw. The tiny bit of play thats in the shaft screws is enough to clock the throttle plate enough that it's not seated right, but you won't notice until it gets hot.

kyler021 · 2026-06-16T21:15:07-0500

FIBA M - EC17PSE said:
I have had this before and was 1/4 nut turn too tight small amount bit jams it.

Can check that and it is central with a light behind the TB to view it.

So basically, I just need to take the TB off, undo the 2 screws holding the throttle blade on and center it? How do you know when it's just right? When there's minimal light coming through on the sides of the housing?

FIBA M - EC17PSE said:
The lther thing is jamming when closed means the throttle stop is to far back. If you release it slamming shut and it jams its to fsr out and needs to just be allowed open but following the oem soecs is a good first step on that tiny screw

I don't think this is the problem with mine. It slams shut and it's pretty easy to get back open... Doesn't jam up or give me much resistance.

FIBA M - EC17PSE said:
Snapping back and not jamming is the check I always do when I rebuild them so make sure to add this check at the end.

See that's the thing... Even with the car running, it'll slam shut perfectly fine and open just fine, it'll just occasionally get stuck when I rev it or give it any gas trying to drive it.

Thanks all for the replies!

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2G Throttle Body Sticking

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