Sometime ago I was able to score a genuine ralliart gas cap in typical corroded state. Then I got it vapor honed and powder coated in clear, I think it turned out pretty good.

1cleangsx said:

Installed my converter bolts and adjusted the throttle cable, she’s right there..

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Nice thank you for showing me what my JMFAB intake S90 TB FF VC Morrison fabrication turbo manifold and clutch and brake reservoir caps looks like on my 1GA

Fixed my oil filter housing issue , and got my tune cleaned up. Flowing 50lb at 25 psi 6400rpm. heading to get some E85 and get my content over 65% so I can just use Max octane. Hoping to just add some timing and get the flow to 54 without much more boost.

Stapl3 said:

Few hundred bucks later and I have myself a custom 180amp alternator that bench tested at 14.5v. The guy that assembled it was really excited over it how he had to track down the last of this, last of that, different this, etc. A frankenstein unit I guess.

Installed, it gives me 14v on the gauge and 13.8ish in 'link. No drive time but all seems good... so far.

Car cleaned up good for a quick wash and tonight's task will be hoodpins on the red car, to keep the hood from flying up on a non-existent windshield because I guess they don't exist on the planet anymore. Sigh.

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More pictures of your hood pins please and thank you I bought the same hood pins for security reasons since I have so much money invested on my 1GA EAGLE

b00zt3d spyd3r said:

This happened today while removing j-pipe to fix a boost leak.

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WOW so sorry man

Stapl3 said:

Has anyone revised the 4 points of attachment for the front seat? Mine were rusty, I ran a tap and die through each corner but it seems a little compromised to me.

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Get some aluminum anti-size it works wonders

Drewpy Dawg said:

I was having trouble finding a good way to mount my little AN fuel filter that looked nice. I liked the idea of using the OE filter bracket (which I had re-plated) but nothing was working very well. So I got a cheap stock fuel filter. Then I cut the end off of it. I ground the fitting off the inlet side and used a step drill to make a 1 1/16” hole. I found a grommet that fit tightly around the outlet side of my AN filter and installed it in the hole on the stock filter. I gave it a fresh coat of black paint, glued the grommet in, then put a piece of high-density foam around the inside circumference. Now my AN filter fits snugly inside. The grommet holds the outlet end, and it fits perfectly in the original bracket. Anybody on this forum can tell it’s not stock at first glance (the AN fitting and pressure sensor are a dead give-away, not to mention it’s actually upside down) but it’s nice and tidy and most people would never give it a second look. I’m pretty pleased with the result.

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Nice work

Pick up few more things for my 1GA Talon

Dannyrampage1 said:

Pick up few more things for my 1GA Talon

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Nice haul!

Anthony Hornback said:

Nice haul!

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Thanks just trying to get a set of everything for my 1GA hood fenders hatch subframes engine and interior harnesses another 4 bolts set T-case Tranny and the whole interior just in case

Today I installed a freshly powder coated air filter box, as it was very rusty and ruined the look of the engine bay.
I also spray painted and installed new rubber bushings for the radiator brackets.





The engine bay looks very nice & clean in my opinion! There's always something I could refresh, but at this point I'm happy with it.

Nearly completed my new undertray/catch pan.

Dannyrampage1 said:

Nice thank you for showing me what my JMFAB intake S90 TB FF VC Morrison fabrication turbo manifold and clutch and brake reservoir caps looks like on my 1GA

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Your welcome. My Manifold is actually an stmtuned manifold

Installed my brembos again, tucked my harness out of sight except for about 3 wires. cleaned the glass,. installed my mount finally on transmission torque solution needed some help with the factory bracket. Made a new list of things for june.

After completing a used Ground Control coilover install, I daily drove my 1g all week. The 90 degree afternoons with no ac made me question that decision. The trimmed Eibach prokits I had in there were fine (available for sale in classifieds) but the firmer setup will be helpful for when I attempt another SCCA track night. They where a compliment to the Lancer GTS 18s, whiteline swaybar, and poly control arm bushings, I recently did. I’m currently running 375/250 coils but others have been happier 550/375 on the track from what I’ve read.Running Koni inserts up front and AGX rears.

dsmmario said:

I’m currently running 375/250 coils but others have been happier 550/375 on the track from what I’ve read.Running Koni inserts up front and AGX rears.

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How do the 375/250 coils feel on the street? Firm but comfortable or very firm? Harsh at all?

Got my coolant system drained completely , new aluminum radiator installed, new coolant bled.

Drewpy Dawg said:

How do the 375/250 coils feel on the street? Firm but comfortable or very firm? Harsh at all?

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Pretty comfortable overall with my full weight car, even with the 18s with run flats. (I know I shouldn’t be running RFTs but they were on sale). The higher spring rate oscillates less but I do feel the potholes and expansion joints more than with the prokits.

Today, I fixed my drivers side front blinker harness that was chewed through, was able to cut the bulb connector off, clean up the wires, and solder new wires to the harness and crimp new pins on the ends of the wires to insert into the bulb connector. Got it pinned out correctly and my blinker is back to working again. Also, fixing wiring at my fuel pump since I recently upgraded from a Walbro 450 pump to a Walbro Hellcat 525 pump - the 450 quit working, so I went with a slightly large pump because why not. Found out who ever installed the 450 (one of the previous owners) did a number on the wiring and hacked it all up, so when I took ownership of the car, the fuel gauge has never worked. Now, I'm in the process of getting all the factory wiring connected back together and hopefully when I'm done I'll have a working fuel gauge. I also removed my drivers seat, its a NRG Alcantara suede racing seat - the seat is too high so I ordered low profile bracket mounting hardware to use instead of regular nuts and bolts. I hope to gain at least a 1/4 inch of clearance between the seat bracket and the bottom of the seat so that way I can set the seat down a little lower so my head isn't so close to the roof of the car. Since I had the seat out, I decided to install a Braum harness bar that I had ordered a few months ago, I got the harness bar installed and adjusted, I just need to finish torquing the hardware and then I'll be finished with that. I got the factory seat belts removed from the car and I'm going to be installing my NRG 5 point harness now that I have the harness bar in the car. I also recently added a SparkTech coil on plug kit to the car, this upgrade alone made a huge difference to the car - this ignition system is so much better than the factory setup its amazing how well the car runs now. The only other thing I did recently was remove my valve cover so that I could replace the old dry rotted seals, I had a oil leak from the valve cover so I replaced all the seals under it, the 4 to the spark tubes and the main valve cover seal.

Other than that, about a month ago I ran into a major issue - my transmission let go on my way home after some rips on the street, I was able to get the car home and once me and my buddy were able to tear into it, we found that the end gear that supports the center diff lost a bunch of teeth and unfortunately that made my trans unusable as the center diff was actually grinding on the inside of the housing. I was able to source a replacement transmission from a guy who's on these forums, and I made a new friend out of that deal so that was a plus - anyway, I basically bought a 100% stock never modified W4A33 auto trans to replace my busted one. Once I got the replacement trans home, I removed the dented oil pan (currently in the process of hammering all the dents back out), removed the stock valve body, and removed the non-welded stock center diff. I sent off the stock valve body, non-welded center diff, and my damaged center diff to John at IPT performance transmissions for modification. He's going to be adding a Trans-Lab shift kit and modifying my valve body, welding the replacement center diff, and inspecting to see if I can salvage the slightly damaged welded center diff to keep as a spare for future use as needed. Once he's done with my parts, he is going to send me those parts back along with a transmission rebuild kit. Once I get everything back, the plan is to tear apart the replacement trans and rebuild it with all new internal parts to freshen it up. I still need to pull the damaged trans out of the car, we plan to get it removed tomorrow - once its out, I will be draining the torque converter so I can get it packaged and boxed up to be sent back to Precision as I have "the dragon" billet torque converter. I am going to have them open it up, get it all cleaned out as I'm sure there's glitter all inside of it, and most likely going to have them re-stall it 500 over what its currently at - so hopefully when I get it back from them the stall is somewhere between 4500 and 5000. The only other thing I need to do is remove my transmission cooler, I'm honestly thinking of just buying a whole new replacement core and lines and just swapping it out, verses trying to flush it out and get it cleaned that way - or maybe I'll have to think about this for a minute if its easy to just flush it all out. Anyway, I haven't driven the car in a little over a month and its getting to me - I'm more motivated to get this stuff done and finished so that i can get her back on the road, I actually miss driving the car, its sad. I was messing with ChatGPT and asked AI to render me a picture of the car with window tint (i dont have window tint on my door windows or hatch glass, but plan to have it all tinted) and since my paint is jacked on the roof - I am planning to vinyl wrap the roof and part of the hatch gloss black. So again I asked AI to show what my car would look like with window tint and a gloss black roof. This is what I plan to do with my car once its all buttoned up and running again. I cant hardly wait, its gonna be awesome to have it back on the road. Almost forgot to mention, my garage only had two recessed lights for the longest time and they honestly weren't very bright - so a buddy of mine told me about a deal he saw on amazon for those hexagon lights. So I pulled up the link and decided to place an order for their 8 hex lights deal, paid roughly $80 with free shipping cause of prime, anyway I got them installed in the garage where I needed more lighting and these things are so bright and look great. I also ordered off amazon a remote controlled outlet adapter, I plugged those lights into the outlet that powers my garage door opener so those lights weren't on a switch, so I was like how am I going to turn them on and off, well I found that remote controlled outlet adapter, so basically you plug the adapter into the outlet and then plug the lights into the adapter and the adapter itself is a wireless switch, it came with a fob and it has on and off buttons and just click it on to turn on the lights and click off to turn them off, its super convenient.

Brake lines almost done, cleaned the windows, more wiring some tucking of the harness and more mock up. Need to buy paint next week for the bay,

Wash and cruise

Wired up my antilag per ecmlinks instructions. Activated with the factory settings and I’m not getting the flames I want. I’m trying to be like @jdxnc so I can shut the meet down when these bmw kids start with their garbage burble tunes

Less timing more fuel? Send help. Just want to use it for show

Since I was there… btw, anyone know the tap size offhand to chase the turbo threads? Also, if anyone has a nice lower heat shield, I’m interested. PM me.

chrisman287 said:

Wired up my antilag per ecmlinks instructions. Activated with the factory settings and I’m not getting the flames I want. I’m trying to be like @jdxnc so I can shut the meet down when these bmw kids start with their garbage burble tunes

Less timing more fuel? Send help. Just want to use it for show

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I did no such thing, I'm very environmentally concoius, hell I even installed an EV charge port on my DSM

Badge023 said:

Since I was there… btw, anyone know the tap size offhand to chase the turbo threads?

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M10 x 1.25.

The only thing keeping my car from being a running/driving car for about 6 months now has been taking the time to run some 10ga wire from the battery to the back of the car for the fuel pump. I finally made the time to do that yesterday. Fishing the wire through the wire harness grommet in the firewall behind the battery was an absolute pain in the ass!

My assistant wasn't much help either.

@Capt Obvious How comfortable are those Corbeaus? FX1s? I need something for my 2G. I can't sit in these Kirkeys. I drive on the street a lot and they are brutal especially with the crap roads and stiff suspension I have. Bad combo.

Capt Obvious said:

My assistant wasn't much help either.

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He's the perfect size for fitting under the dash. Teach him how to R+R clutch pedal assemblies and you'll make a fortune!

diambo4life said:

@Capt Obvious How comfortable are those Corbeaus? FX1s? I need something for my 2G. I can't sit in these Kirkeys. I drive on the street a lot and they are brutal especially with the crap roads and stiff suspension I have. Bad combo.

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I think they're pretty comfortable. I'm 6'4" 200lbs and I don't feel too squished in them. My biggest complaint about them is my own doing, I need to adjust the mounts to make them be a bit more reclined.