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You would only use helium in aluminum applications, a large gas lens/cup with a 15cfh flow will get colors like that as long as your torch head keeps the argon on the metal as long as possible.

It's not about anything but gas coverage, and sometimes too much gas flow can creat a suction affect that draws in oxygen from behind the torch cause the pressure is higher (think siphon feed sand blaster) if you have the perfect gas flow with a large lens and cup colored stainless is easy. The hard part is keeping your welds uniform.
You need a pretty steady hand unless your walking the cup.

so you swap gases when you do aly and then stainless then? or do most shops just stick with pure argon?

so if i went with a 8 or 9 cup and 13 cfm that would be ok or would i need bigger still? normally i use a 7 cup and 5-6 cfm and that seems okand every now and then i will get some color
 
what are you going to get lots of color? you putting the gas flow higher?


also what do you use for gas? is it argon or something else as i read once that america uses helium or helium argon mix? so it burns hotter as you guys dont get the same pawor as we get in the uk?

i need to know all this as i am moving to florida so i must get learning for the gas so i know how it reacts to pure argon?

Congrats urban! I wanna take another class that will certify me.

Ec17pse - pretty colors are ALL about gas coverage. 100% argon. and a long post flow and torch angle. Once you figure it out, it's easy.
 
so you swap gases when you do aly and then stainless then? or do most shops just stick with pure argon?

so if i went with a 8 or 9 cup and 13 cfm that would be ok or would i need bigger still? normally i use a 7 cup and 5-6 cfm and that seems okand every now and then i will get some color
Thanks gamble!
No argon is the best all around, they only ise a helium mix with argon on aluminum that is thicker or when working in access of your machines amperage, you can weld aluminum just fine with pure argon, most people won't need anything but argon. I use a 7 or 8 cup, I'm not as lucky as gamble.... With his over sized #10 pyrex cup and lens. Probably gets color on ss withput even trying.
 
No argon is the best all around, they only ise a helium mix with argon on aluminum that is thicker or when working in access of your machines amperage, you can weld aluminum just fine with pure argon, most people won't need anything but argon. I use a 7 or 8 cup, I'm not as lucky as gamble.... With his over sized #10 pyrex cup and lens. Probably gets color on ss withput even trying.

Let me throw in a normal cup and show you how it's done :)
I'll see if I can get time this weekend.

Helium is like supercharging your machine if you need more heat.
So if your machine is only 200amps and you need 300 or so, you add helium to the mix or straight helium. And because helium is lighter than argon you need more flow, like 20-25cfh.
Or if you use straight helium and like 200amps you can DC tig weld aluminum. Never tried it personally though.
Also helium is really expensive! Around here for a 55cf fill it's $100. WTF
 
I have a lead on a stainless steel tig job for resturant equipment! (Sinks, prep tables etc) and another for food grade stuff at a dairy company! Mmmm anyone got pix of good food grade stainless welding, frickin amazing.

Let me throw in a normal cup and show you how it's done :)
I'll see if I can get time this weekend.

Helium is like supercharging your machine if you need more heat.
So if your machine is only 200amps and you need 300 or so, you add helium to the mix or straight helium. And because helium is lighter than argon you need more flow, like 20-25cfh.
Or if you use straight helium and like 200amps you can DC tig weld aluminum. Never tried it personally though.
Also helium is really expensive! Around here for a 55cf fill it's $100. WTF

I wouldnt say adding helium or using straight helium would account for 100amps of heat... But it will drfinately help out if your maxing out your machine and need a little more juice out of it, helium is great for over head aluminum! Haha not so much for flat though,

I know gamble knows this but for anyone that doesnt

Argon is heavier than air, so you really dont need like 20-25cfh like some people in this thread are using or you will suck in air (contamination) to your puddle, same as if you have a leak in your line to your regulator, or if its not tightenough, it will draw in air and contaminate your argon., if you want more gas coverage use larger cups and more pre and or post flow. Welding isnt like turbos where the more gas pressure the better LOL.

Helium you only need more pressure in your flow because if you don't itll float away (much lighter than air... Obviously.) which is why it's kinda cool for over head.

Most people use straight up 100% argon

With stainless ive heard, but haven't tried, that nitrogen is an excellent purge gas for stainless. And cheaper.
 
Kyle,
for food grade work, I've read that you don't want to use any filler at all. Filler would give bacteria a place to hide and grow. So you better practice your autogenous welding.
 
I have done Ultra High Purity pipe and valve jobs for dairy company's and a lot of sanitary food piping at Kellog's.


But this is all SS sch 10-40 pipe. I have also done a few repairs for my contractors clients, it was SS counter tops that were filthy with grease. I spent hours trying to make the surface clean so I could repair it.

Depending on what the item is being fabbed you may need to grind or remove all of the weld reinforcement to make it flush. I have done this on pipe and flat parts. So it is important that both sides are tied in and there is nothing contaminating the weld, or else it will show up when you grind it


Also I Acetone my filler, the parts, and use clean gloves
 
^

On really thin ss plate it is common to "sweat" (no filler) the pieces together. But if you aren't the best, you can leave craters on the back side. And this can also be because no back purge is used.
 
Keep in mind for all sanitary stuff it needs to be complete penetration and be smooth on the inside of the pipes/tubes, as any pockets of any size can catch food/liquid and are bacteria havens. I used to design beverage equipment (predominantly brewery stuff) and a lot of the stuff we did had to get x-rayed before getting sent out.
 
what are you going to get lots of color? you putting the gas flow higher?


also what do you use for gas? is it argon or something else as i read once that america uses helium or helium argon mix? so it burns hotter as you guys dont get the same pawor as we get in the uk?

i need to know all this as i am moving to florida so i must get learning for the gas so i know how it reacts to pure argon?

I'd have to say the most important thing about getting good color/gas coverage for stainless is your torch setup. It took me quite a while to find a good setup that worked the way I wanted it to. Here's what I got:

Started out with this gas lense. Figured a gas lense with a decent size cup would cover well. Turned out the cup was too large for this gas lense. The only way I could get it to work decently was to shove scotch brite inside the nozzle, but still wasn't satisfied.
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I'm now using this large "gas saver" gas lense. It's working very well for me. Using around 15-20cfh but seems to work just as well with as little as 10cfh. (100% Argon)
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Also have a dual flow regulator. Back-purging is a must imo :thumb:
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^^What did you pay for that when you could of gotten this one much cheap. Quality piece too.
Dual HTP Argon CO2 MIG TIG Flow Meter Regulator Welding Weld Double Backpurge | eBay

I believe it was around $200. It was bought for me by a friend in exchange for fabrication work. Had he not of bought it for me, I still would have gotten this model. I believe you get what you pay for, and don't mind paying a little extra for my tools and equipment in hopes that they work and last a long time.
 
Then you don't know what HTP quality is. If it was $159 or $179 it would be better?
 
Kyle,
for food grade work, I've read that you don't want to use any filler at all. Filler would give bacteria a place to hide and grow. So you better practice your autogenous welding.

I'm rather good with autogenous actually :) i believe you do use filler, and purge like a mad man. I posted some pic on here of my autogenous stuff (post 1,434)

How much can i expect hourly for sanatary/dary company work spoon man? (Ballpark) somethin tells me 35$+
 
I make $41.26 with full benefits. But I am a union steamfitter and this is for industrial construction. To get my SS GTAW certification I had to weld a 2.75" xxh (double extra heavy) pipe in the 6g position. It took around 3.5 hours to finish. Just a guess.


In the "States" non union pipewelders can be paid $21-31 to do this exact same work, with out benefits. FYI my contractor bids against these workers making half of our pay! Which means we have to present amazing quality and craftsmanship and do it faster to compete and get jobs.



Buttttt there are also SS fabrication jobs that pay as low as $12.00 up to $20. And they expect a high level of skill.
 
Got cha, yeah i planned to get my ss 6g rather soon actually, thats pretty good pay, but you do excellent work.

Haha to "states" i may live in canada at the moment but I'm american, from seattle LOL. So I'm more familier with the "states" then canada LOL. I'd like to go into pressure vessles someday..
 
Got cha, yeah i planned to get my ss 6g rather soon actually, thats pretty good pay, but you do excellent work.

Haha to "states" i may live in canada at the moment but I'm american, from seattle LOL. So I'm more familier with the "states" then canada LOL. I'd like to go into pressure vessles someday..

I work on SS tube and pipe all day long at juice and dairy plants. Tubing is not done with filler. Full penetration is key. Look back in this thread for pics of mine. I argued a lot of points when the whole full penetration argument was going on. Industry standard equipment in sanitary setting is a 17 or 9 flex head torch, with a small DC maxstar 150 using touch start. Got to be mobile and able to weld up in the pipe rack or on platforms for tie ins. Some amount is pre fabbed on the bench, but in place welding is where the majority of work is.
 
Heres my attempt at a baffled catch can, my first time weldig aluminum properly (fresh clean material, prepped, green 3/32 tungsten, 20 cfh 100amp diversion 180, 1/8th aluminum)
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Quite satisfied
 

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I'm thinking about applying with the union, I'm getting. 24 and some change now and I'm only 22, I had hell finding work right out of college, many places want peple with experience and that got to me, I want to get payed more for what I'm already doing but I'm hving to be patient, but were I live 24 working 60-80 a week is more than plenty, do you hae to go to the union office to apply for a postion?
 
Heres my attempt at a baffled catch can, my first time weldig aluminum properly (fresh clean material, prepped, green 3/32 tungsten, 20 cfh 100amp diversion 180, 1/8th aluminum)
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Quite satisfied

Don't use green on inverter machines. It's not recommended and works for shit.
 
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Yes you need to apply at the local union hall. There are a few in Texas that are under the Untied Association. They all have different jurisdictions. You could "back door" if you are a good pipe welder that can pass SMAW and GTAW tests and have a history in fabrication. That would put you at journey man status.

But in my area that is very uncommon. As I went through a 5 year apprenticeship and learned to weld, fabricate, and fit pipe. But you also need to learn about steam and hydronic systems.


So if you can weld and have some knowledge you could skip a few years in the apprenticeship. This is much more common.

It all depends on the local. Some pay higher like Kansas City where I am working. Scale for a journeyman is $41. But back in omaha my home local (which is very secure with constant work) they only pay $32.78.



UA.org: Links
This link will have the locals in Texas. Pick the one closest to you and call. You should speak with the Business Agent.
 
Don't use green on inverter machines. It's not recommended and works for shit.

It honestly wasnt that bad! I have ceriated also.

Why isnt green recommended on inverters?


From welding web

pure tungsten is not capable of carrying the same current for a given diameter as other types of tungstens for a given application and this probably the main reason why you would be better off with other tungsten selections.
 
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