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Does anyone on here have any experience with WP-26 tig torches?

I have a problem where i can't get the back cap put enough pressure on the collete for it to vice itself inside the collete body and tighten the tungston securely in place. I tried different tungstons and collets from AirGas and every time i try to assemble the tig torch the tungston just keeps moving up and down without being secured no matter how much i tighten the back cap. I really think its something with the torch itself. Anyone had any similar issues?
It's probably an issue with the collet or cap. Try replacing both and see if it's tightens properly.

I had a run-in with a defective cap a few months ago. It was a brand new cap and it was tightening but it wasn't sealing and I was getting poor gas coverage and contaminated welds. So defectives do happen.
 
I tried a couple different colletes, the ones that came with the welder and a couple different ones from AirGas. The machine came with two different caps, a long and a short. I can't imagine both being defeactive but who knows, I'm up against the wall with this issue now. :banghead:
 
The back cap pushes the collet down and holds it to the collet body therefore holding the tungsten in place.
So my thought is you are using too big of a collet or collet body or too small of a tungsten for that size collet or collet body. Or you have the collet in upside down.
Or simply the wrong collet, like you have one for a 9 instead of a 17.
 
Shoulder to the Holder.

Golden Arm. My work speaks for itself

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One thing I learned is that welding in the field sucks when you have to get in really awkward positions... Welding school was cake compared to welding on some screwed up crap I've been having to weld lately full of grease, oil, rusted to shit metal.... has anyone ever stick welded stainless to carbon using stick? Now that is fun especially uphill out of position.
 
what part of atlanta are you in?

I'm in north Atlanta, lawrenceville to be exact.

But yeah, i'm using the right colletes and tungstens and all. The theads are all fine too, even had someone much more experienced than me try to assemble the torch with the same result. Working on getting my torch replaced because that's the only constant with this headache.
 
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Autogenous tig welds on thin mild steel.
(No filler)

The blow through were the origional tacks.
 

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Read through this whole thread in a few days, lots of good info in here.

Not much of a welder myself, though I've been around a lot of it. I do quality control for the automatic stuff, making sure everything is within parameters.

Here's a $500,000 internal clamp and bead machine. 8 welding heads, 4 at a time. Put a bead in 42" pipe in about 60 seconds.

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Dual headed pulse arc welders for fill and cap.

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+40C in the summer, -40C in the winter.

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Some of my crappy aluminum welding on a lincoln migpak 140 with a spool gun. Says it can only do up to 14ga aluminum, but I think it worked decent enough for welding a 3/8" plate onto my intake. Too cold on the starts though, then as the material heats up it gets better. Definitely have to work on starts and stops though. I've had the same 2ft tall argon bottle for about 5 years, so shows how much I weld. I've got an old lincoln stick machine I wouldn't mind trying to convert to tig though, I'd like to give that a try.

Two intakes, one with MAF for dialing in VE table, the other without MAF for running SD.

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Some vacuum nipples I made on the lathe.

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New set of Kooks headers for an 01 Cobra and the start of a X-pipe on the table. V-band>ball/socket flange :D
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Woohoo got 4 welding certs!!
Stick- flat 1g
Stick- horizontal 2g
Mig- flat 1g
Mig- horizontal 2g

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I'm sure you wanna see the goods.
Cracked my iphone today :(
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Woohoo!

I didn't get pix of the mig welds because everything went rather quick in that area.
 

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First timing tiging had about 3-4 minuets to use it and this was the out come.
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Good Job Urban


^ Pipelining is hard to break into. If you can find someone to take you as a helper and show you the ropes you are lucky. Even better if the welder busts you out and teaches you how to weld. My advise is to join your local United Association pipefitters union apprenticeship program. 5 years of schooling and on the job training. By then you should be able to weld pipe good and have done fitter experience. Of course any pipe figuring that is done in comercial or industrial settings is quite a bit different that being out on a pipeline with a rig. But at least you have proven experience.
 
New set of Kooks headers for an 01 Cobra and the start of a X-pipe on the table. V-band>ball/socket flange :D
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:applause:

I need to get a Mig welder soon:sosad: (i know thats probably Tig LOL)
 

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^
That is in fact GTAW (tig)

And you have to start somewhere, a good mig machine is great for carbon steel projects. Like motor mounts and suspension.
 
New set of Kooks headers for an 01 Cobra and the start of a X-pipe on the table. V-band>ball/socket flange :D
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what are you going to get lots of color? you putting the gas flow higher?


also what do you use for gas? is it argon or something else as i read once that america uses helium or helium argon mix? so it burns hotter as you guys dont get the same pawor as we get in the uk?

i need to know all this as i am moving to florida so i must get learning for the gas so i know how it reacts to pure argon?
 

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You would only use helium in aluminum applications, a large gas lens/cup with a 15cfh flow will get colors like that as long as your torch head keeps the argon on the metal as long as possible.

It's not about anything but gas coverage, and sometimes too much gas flow can creat a suction affect that draws in oxygen from behind the torch cause the pressure is higher (think siphon feed sand blaster) if you have the perfect gas flow with a large lens and cup colored stainless is easy. The hard part is keeping your welds uniform.
You need a pretty steady hand unless your walking the cup.
 
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