WTF am i doing wrong. DSM gurus needed

[Vert]

i bought a 1995 GSX about 5 years ago, and have been modding it ever since. Problem is, that regardless of how much i mod it, i can't get it to go any faster. My best to date is 13.9 in the 1/4 mile.

List 'o Mods:

TDO5 20g
Monster Turbine houseing from machV.com
K&N air filter
Injen intake pipe
3" turbo back exhaust w/o cat.
EvoIII Exh. Mani
ACT 2100 clutch
XACT flywheel
750cc injectors
walbro 255 pump
aeromotive AFPR
man. boost controller set for 21psi.
-6an stainless fuel line.
DSMlink
MSD 8.5 mm wires
NGK iridium plugs
EVO VIII FMIC
2.5" IC piping
greddy typeS BOV

What am i doing wrong or not doing right. From the first time i put it on the track to the last time (Friday), it doesn't matter what i do. Interior / No interior. FMIC / SMIC. 20g / T25. I've even pulled the pass. headlight and nothing i've tried works. my wife is getting pissed with the money i've spent, with really nothing to show for it. I know it SHOULD go faster, I know that it SHOULD run 12's, but i just can't seem to do it.

i've done a pressure test, and did find a small leak at the BISS screw on the TB and i fixed that. but all the IC connections are good. the gaskets on the TB don't leak. The last time i check the compresison it was around 160 across the board. We did a leak down test, and the only thing worth mentioning was the #1 cylinder had about 10% loss, which i understand as being normal for an engine w/ 155k on it. Also the timing is good, the timing marks line up perfectly. I'm out of ideas. I did some reading and learned that bad head gaskets can lead to a loss of power, but beyond a compression and leak down test, i'm not sure how to test for this, and i'd rather not pull the head if i don't have to.

it's really embarrassing to loose to a fart can honda with as much as i've got invested into a DSM. I know that it SHOULD be faster, but for some reason it isn't.
### help. I love my car and just want it to perform like its supposed to. I'll give any additional info i can.

I don't feel that the problem is tuning. I think that there is something fundamentally wrong with the car. I'm out of ideas

Included is the most recent DSMLink log i had from the track on Friday.

 

[SpiralOut]

I don't know much about reading logs. But, I would check your timing first. You might bee off a tooth or 2. Is the car driving perfectly? If not what is it doing, Do you have and tailpipe smoke? When was the last time you checked your compression in your cylinders?

 

[Vert]

The timing belt is tight, and the timing marks line up, so i doubt the timing is off, but i'll check it again. the car drives fine, and there is no smoke from the exhaust.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Wow you have a lot wrong. I'm not quite convinced you are doing an accurate boost leak test. The system NEEDS to stay pressurized to 25 psi for more than 20 seconds. If it is not, then you still have leaks.

-Are you verifying that you are holding 21 psi to redline? If so, your boostest is off by a HUGE amount. It says you are at 9 psi by redline. Go back to switchover at 2000hz and follow this guide after you do a good boost leak test

http://www.jeffgst.com/gmafcalibration1.html

-Trash those NGK iridiums and get some NGK BPR7ES plugs and gap them with a feeler gauge (no ramp gauge) to .028.

-You are knocking like hell throughout the rpm range. Something is very wrong in your system. Go back and do all of your maintenance and make sure that everything is in good order.

-Coolant temps are very high, get that in check.

-Intake temps are very high, look into ram air boxes or cold air intakes.

-TPS volts need to be at .63V

Follow this guide after you have completed the above.

You pretty much need to go back and recomb through your entire system and start from the ground up. It's a lot of frustrating work, but your goals of 12's will reward you in the end. A 20g setup is more than capable of shooting you into deep 12's / 11's with the right setup. Maintenance is KEY.

 

[Mr Peepers]

Can I ask your trap speed? It is most likely to be influenced by power/weight, while ET is mostly driver.

 

[crimsondragon]

Follow this guide for proper boost leak test.

1. Disable your mbc.

2. Turn your motor to 30* ATDC to avoid valve overlap.

3. Start your test at the TB elbow and focus on area behind the TB first.

4. Spray soapy water at TB gasket, BISS, TB shaft on both sides, IM gasket, injector insulators, brake booster, afpr and all vacuum lines/connections.

5. Open your oil cap and listen for leaks. (PCV, valve seals/guide, rings)

5. Listen to your tailpipe for leaks. (EGR, valve overlap, jumped timing, bent/unseated valves)

6. Once all leaks are fixed, move the tester back to the turbo inlet.

7. Spray down the compressor cover (known leak), BOV return/flange (DO NOT TAP YOUR BOV LINE FOR YOUR MBC!!!), IC end tank/fins and all connections. Re- test.

8. Note that you will leak air into the crankcase through the turbo seal but do not panic, this is normal during a static pressure test as long as there are no shaft play.

The desired test result from the begining of the LICP (bypassing turbo) is around 20psi (on boost gauge) with the compressor set at 30psi, while taking no less than 30 seconds to bleed down to 0.

As a reference, my last test on my 500 mile new engine, I was able to pressurize the system to 25psi, bled down to about 16psi (my 1G bov) in about 30seconds, then took about 3 mins to 6psi and just kinda lingered there for a while. It's not easy to do but the point is it's possible. My next goal is 30psi After motor break in and Dodge modding my BOV. A boost leak test is one of most pita but important regular maintenace task, the key is patience and endurance

I can't view the log at the moment but if Tom is right on you knocking, the ECU will reduce your timing a lot. You'll be building a ton of boost but not going anywhere.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Few things.

1. You are not doing a good boost leak test. I know this from the boostest at 100%VE(5,000-6,000rpm). The boostest is extremely low indicating there is a leak between the maf and the turbo. Air is being drawn in there and the maf doesn't read it. This is why boostest is low and actual boost is higher. Boostest and actual boost must match between 5,000-6,000 rpm.

2. Intake temps need to come down. In that log your ecu is pulling 1* of timing due to the high inake temps.

3. Coolant temps need to come down. Just like with the intake temp the ecu is pulling 1* of timing for this.

4. Your tps needs to be adjusted to read .63 volts.

5. You are getting tons of knock which is making your car considerably slower than it should be.



Go fix number 1 and 4 at least and then lets start from scratch with the tuning. After those are fixed get us a log with the car warmed up and mafraw reading about 50hz. This will be done sitting still slightly above idle.

 

[Vert]

The day the log was taken, it was really hot. I mean REALLY hot. Track temp was somewhere around 140F. Needless to say the car was hot too.

In any event, I'll make some changes, and post another log.

 

[assault187]

I cant view the log now considering Im at work, But make some changes as to the advice that Blcknspoolin gave you and post another log. One thing that comes to mind for me though is the coolant and intake temps that these fella's are talking about and the outside temp as well. High intake and coolant temps will pull some timing, and if your knocking throughout you RPM band this is pulling timing as well and rob power. Reduce these temps and maybe look into a meth Injection kit after all other things have been tended to if the knock is still present. I'll check the logs later and post back with anything helpful that I can add.

 

[droppinbottom]

If you want to make the ride over on a weekend I will see if there is anything I can help with. I will say it straight out that I am no expert but I am fairly decent with tuning.

 

[assault187]

I just looked at your logs...You need to get your knock under control! What is your AFR @ WOT? I never go off A/F ratio reading from the front 02... I Usually tune for 11.3 on pump gas and it works out well. Also your boost falls off pretty heavily during each gear, either you have a boost leak or you loosing boost threw the rings or valves.


Just taking care of that knock problem will make a huge difference in performance.

 

[talon187]

yeah i would agree with everything above but the only thing i see missing from your setup is a wideband 02. once you fix your boost leaks and knock issues the car will go good if you get a wideband so you can get a perfect tune you should be able to go low 12s