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Would this setup support 300whp?

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tsi1991awd

10+ Year Contributor
1,366
6
Sep 28, 2008
Puyallup, Washington
I'm trying to make at least 300whp. I'm not sure that my car will allow it, but if it does then great. I've put together the following setup and was wondering if it will support that much power. And if there is anything I missed that would be crucial.


*Fuel
1000cc Fuel Injectors
Aeromotive AFPR / Gauge
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump

*Intake
Dejon 3" Intake
2g MAF
K&N Filter
PR FMIC
Greddy Type RS BOV (recirc)

*Exhaust
Evo 3 Manifold (ported)
16G 7cm Turbine Housing (ported)
PR O2 Housing
PR 3" DP
3" Cutout (in cat's place)
3" Exhaust
MBC

*Other
NGK Step Colder Plugs
Autometer Boost Gauge
Greddy Turbo Timer
DSMLink
FIAV Blockoff (possibly)
 
To be on the safe side I would consider using ARP headstuds and a thicker headgasket. You should be able to reach your goal with a good tune.
 
Would a Cometic MLS HG work good? I've heard some good things about them, and then some mixed reviews....mostly good though.

Also, I'm going to be getting it dyno tuned at a reputable shop that's been doing DSMLink tunes for the past 12 years.
 
Should easily make 300whp.. But as said ARP's + a headgasket will do nicely even though it's probably not needed at the 300whp stage.. A wideband would be a plus... Don't forget to add in tuning costs.. You'll want to make sure to get a good tune to run right and keep from messing anything up :thumb: You might want to start looking into some drivetrain mods also..
 
The stock tranny wouldn't hold 300whp? I'm really not trying for much more because this is my DD. I can do a flywheel/clutch no problem.
 
To be on the safe side I would consider using ARP headstuds and a thicker headgasket. You should be able to reach your goal with a good tune.

There is no need for a thicker headgasket, and i don't know of anywhere to get one for these motors anyways.. Don't pass on bad info on these forums. The stock headgasket/thickness is fine.
 
I'd run it until it blows the HG. There are more than a few engines making more than 300hp that have never had the head removed. The stock composite gasket is also a good piece. Upgrading to a MLS (multi-layer-steel) head gasket can be a downgrade if the head and or block are too rough for a proper seal. Most people don't experience this, but it is a reality of MLS gaskets.

ARP headstuds are always helpful. You can technically take the old ones out one at a time and put the new ones in.
 
What's a good clutch/flywheel combo that would hold up to the power? If it comes down to it, I don't mind a 6 puck, as that's what I had on my Accord.
 
I'd run it until it blows the HG. There are more than a few engines making more than 300hp that have never had the head removed. The stock composite gasket is also a good piece. Upgrading to a MLS (multi-layer-steel) head gasket can be a downgrade if the head and or block are too rough for a proper seal. Most people don't experience this, but it is a reality of MLS gaskets.

ARP headstuds are always helpful. You can technically take the old ones out one at a time and put the new ones in.

This man speaks the truth..

35psi on a stock composite headgasket right here..
 
4g63attack, I know the 1000s are overkill....but if my plans ever change and I want to run higher boost, I don't want to buy new injectors. From my understanding, you can adjust fuel output with DSMLink, that's why I'd rather go ahead and have bigger injectors even though my goal isn't all that high.
 
hate to but in, but since the transmission thing was brought up here, and since it might actually be a useful thing to know in this thread anyway...

How much of an HP gain can a stock transmission take? 300 like he's going for here i'm sure would be okay, but at what point do you start destroying parts in it? And what would be good transmission upgrades if you go past that point?
 
Would a Cometic MLS HG work good? I've heard some good things about them, and then some mixed reviews....mostly good though.

Also, I'm going to be getting it dyno tuned at a reputable shop that's been doing DSMLink tunes for the past 12 years.

I dont even think its been out for 12 years, I remember when it was released but I dont think it was in 96??

Anyways I wouldnt worry about the HG untill it goes, because it may just be fine. Also the 1g 6bolt motors have good head studs that dont stretch and buying arp's would be a waste of money. I run 30psi all day on stock head studs.
 
The stock tranny will be fine. I'm assuming he meant you might need a new clutch.

Yeah thanks snowborder, that's exactly what I meant. My OEM clutch started going on with a 14b @ 18 psi. No dyno tuning so no numbers but I'm sure it's not in the vicinity of 300whp, maybe 240-250~ish. But a clutch would definately help out a bunch :)
 
i love my act. i would recommend a 2100 with the street disk. :thumb:


DONT EVER BUY A SPEC!!!!!
THEY ARE JUNK AND SHOULD ONLY BE USED FOR SHOOTING AT!!!!!!:notgood:
 
What kind of power can the 2100 hold?

Also, out ofcuriosity, what if I did all of the mods except for the fuel injectors and turning the boost up...and left Link out as well? Would it run OK if I had the fuel presure set right?

The reason I ask is because I'd rather not put the 1000cc injectors in until I was going to get the car dyno tuned. This is my DD, so I can't really afford down time.

I'd do all the other mods and then the day before or two days before the tune, I would swap out the injectors and the 2g MAF and haul the car down and have it messed with at the shop.

UNLESS Link came with a base programmed to my setup so it would be drivable.
 
When you purchase DSMlink, it comes programmed for the size injectors you want to run. So you could get it programmed for the 1000cc injectors and then install DSMlink and the injectors at the same time and not have any problem starting it up. It will adjust for the injectors, but pull the timing, fuel, and airflow values from the ECU. You don't have to adjust anything to get it running. Adjusting values in DSMlink just makes it run better.

I'm running an ACT 2100 with a street disc and stock flywheel. I don't know my hp/torque as I haven't been on a dyno yet, but I ran a 13.5@110 and have the studderbox set at 3500 RPM's. I'm not going to guess how my hp I might have as that'd be bench racing, but you can go find some calculators/estimators on the internet that determine your hp from your 1/4 mile time.

Yes, if you didn't add DSMlink and the injectors, the car would still run fine. But installing those would take you no time at all, so I'd just do it with everything else. As I said, it will run fine.
 
I will probably just do everything and when I'm ready to get it tuned, install the injectors and DSMLink and then drive down to the shop. What should the FPR be set at?
 
His dsmlink will allow him to change the injectors output.

4g63attack, I know the 1000s are overkill....but if my plans ever change and I want to run higher boost, I don't want to buy new injectors. From my understanding, you can adjust fuel output with DSMLink, that's why I'd rather go ahead and have bigger injectors even though my goal isn't all that high.

I see, I didn't know that DSMLink can do that. I never seen or play with dsmlink so i don't know much about it but heard a lot of good thinks about it. I was thinking of the Apexi afc way :p
 
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