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Would overrun FPR prevent car from starting?

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2GturboTALON

20+ Year Contributor
607
6
Nov 26, 2002
St. Peters, Missouri
I recently had my cyl. head cleaned up and installed new head gasket and other misc gaskets. After I got everything together and did the Taboo vacuum removal,leaving port p open for boost gauge .I primed it via pulling the motor fuse and the coil pack ( which i assume is fine). After priming I reconnect the motor fuse and the coil pack and it just cranks over and over. Then pulled plugs and tried to get all the air out to verify it got primed. Put plugs back in reconnected wires 4-1-2-3 and went to try again still just cranking. Look over all connectors and everything is in. I did notice that the fuel line connected to filter seems like it may be seeping.

My question after that novel is by removing the fpr solenoid hoses, running hose from manifold to fpr (which i hear changes fuel pressure) and having a evo 9 pump, could i be overrunning it to the point it wont start ?

I'm just trying to eliminate ideas till i get home later and

- check ECT sensor
-clean all engine connectors
-double check coil config
-compression check
-Use starter fluid
-Pull my hair out
-Check for bad gas (car sat for about 2 months)
 
Running the vacuum source off the IM (bypassing the fp solenoid) to the fpr doesn't change fuel pressure, the car just might start a little rough during a hot start.

Nothing that you mentioned in your no start points a fpr over run, so why are you just assuming thats what it is? Your plug wires should be setup like the picture I attached, saves from confusion of trying to explain it.

Have you checked for spark at the plugs? Fuel at the rail? Timing?

:dsm:

*EDIT*
I just looked through your profile a bit, are you running a 1g CAS?
 

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I'm a 95 with stock 95 7 bolt. CAS on driver side.

also a direct quote from taboo speed vaccum removal:

The fuel pressure solenoid can be safely removed. Its function is to increase the fuel pressure on start-up by closing the vacuum path to the fuel pressure regulator which is suppose to prevent the fuel from evaporating when the engne is hot. This is not a problem when high volume fuel pump is being used or might take just a bit more cranking in case of completely stock fuel system.

The reason i ask this question is just to knock out any non normal things it could be.

BTW GOFER your car is ridiculously sick and clean. Its one of the few that makes me want a 2gb eclipse.
 
Thanks for the compliment, my cars just like any other DSM though and for some reason people seem to not think so... I still have a toolbox in the back because its been known to leave me on the side of the road.

I know what the fuel pressure solenoid does and nowhere in that quote from Taboo does it say anything about your fuel pressure raising by running the vacuum source from the IM to the fpr. I'm trying to figure out where you read that info because thats the first time I've heard that.

Again, its a no start so treat it like one and don't just start thinking its this, that, or the other or else your going to waste time. Check for spark on all 4 cyl., check for fuel at the rail then out the injectors, check timing, check compression... Keep checking until you find something that isn't right, then you can fix your no start.

:dsm:
 
Ewww, that MIGHT have something to do with it. Hopefully your piston rings aren't gone. Have you done a boost leak test recently? Checked spark plugs & swapped wires? Should always have other plug wires around.
 
compression =

4 =135 3=150 2=130 1=130

Opinions ?

UM those numbers should be at least 2-3 psi apart 5psi MAX. I would do a boost leak test. You might be ready for a engine rebuild :thumb:

oh and I think anything under 135 is really as low as you want to get.
 
Here is a question i never got answered. When reinstalling the crank pulley where should the dots on it line up.
Right at TDC, since thats where you motor should have been when you reinstalled the crank pulley.

Why does your profile say your running a 6-bolt cylinder head?

:dsm:
 
I was lied to by the dealership i bought it from and was still a newb with cylinder head stuff.
So you do or you don't have a 6 bolt head? WTF Your compression is all kinds of jacked, you just built the head didn't you, what all did you do to it?

Car won't start, wierd compression, throwing a CPS CEL, ...

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:dsm:
 
You did answer the question, but your profile SAID you were running a 6-bolt head and thats why I asked again. :toobad:

I'm 100% sure your problem lies with that CEL, be sure you plugged in your CPS in the first place. The CPS plug is located behind the timing belt cover, if you click the link it will show you pictures of its location and the plug itself.

Read up on crankwalk if the CPS is plugged in. Crankwalk

:dsm:
 
How could crankwalk come out of left field if my car ran perfect before redoing my head ?WTF
Its a DSM, they commit suicide... Why did you pull off the head and have it rebuilt anyway?

:dsm:
 
Its a DSM, they commit suicide... Why did you pull off the head and have it rebuilt anyway?

:dsm:

headgasket blew. I love how loosely the crankwalk term is thrown out. I had someone tell me i had crankwalk in my 97 and took it to another shop and ended up just needing a new cps. I hope to prove u wrong on this one. WE will see though.
 
I had a motor with compression of 70 - 90 - 80 - 120 and it started/drove just fine (performance was horrid compared to a fresh motor).
 
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