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Would this broken plug keep my car from starting?

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95EclipseGST

20+ Year Contributor
406
1
Mar 1, 2002
Kansas City, Missouri
My car wasnt starting on the first try and then i saw this black plug with 2 black wires coming off of it. Aftar i soldered the connection, i did a couple other things "messed with fuses" etc and the car started. Do these go straight to the ECU and keep the car from starting? My car currently stopped running after 2 days of a running 6 bolt, but i was wondering if this plug can be a culprit. The wires are now soldered. Will this keep a car from starting tghough?
 

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My car wasnt starting on the first try and then i saw this black plug with 2 black wires coming off of it. Aftar i soldered the connection, i did a couple other things "messed with fuses" etc and the car started. Do these go straight to the ECU and keep the car from starting? My car currently stopped running after 2 days of a running 6 bolt, but i was wondering if this plug can be a culprit.

If your car ran for a bit than stopped my guess would be no. If they were to blame your car would have never started.
 
Looks like they might go to your coolant temperature sensor. If that is the case, they would definitely keep your car from starting because it won't be getting the right amount of fuel.
 
I need a new plug with at least 2-3 inches of wire coming out, iugrad92turbo. Pm me, i would like to buy one from you. Even though i soldered this, its still very brittle cause the wires broke off right at the plug. I wasnt sure that this wire alone would keep the car from starting, but i do think so now.
 
I have had a break in the wires you show. Everybody is correct, it's the ect. My car would barely start, like it was out of gas. When it did run, it did so very poorly. I did as you and the car is good still. Tres....
 
Uhh no, all that those wires will prevent from functioning is your A/C. That's your A/C temp cut off switch. Has nothing to do with with your CTS (it's below it).

Sounds like you had a loose fuse on the huge battery positive bank up by the battery.
 
Uhh no, all that those wires will prevent from functioning is your A/C. That's your A/C temp cut off switch. Has nothing to do with with your CTS (it's below it).

Sounds like you had a loose fuse on the huge battery positive bank up by the battery.

I'd have to go out and look at my car, but i think he's right.

Also, my car runs fine without the coolant temp sensor connected.
 
Yea man, coolant temp sensor. I was having trouble starting my car when it was cold because i took that sensor out to put my aftermarket temp guage. That was the only place it would fit. But today I went out and put that sensor back in BAM started right up.
 
BigBeans said:
I'd have to go out and look at my car, but i think he's right.

Also, my car runs fine without the coolant temp sensor connected.

It's possible that he is. That's why I said they might go to it. I can't tell by that picture what sensor they go to.

And your car won't run fine if the coolant temp sensor for the ecu is disconnected. There are three different coolant temp sensors on a 1G and only the one for the ecu will cause it to not start when cold. You can get it to start by spraying something flammable into the intake though. If you do this until warm it will fire right up.
 
It's possible that he is. That's why I said they might go to it. I can't tell by that picture what sensor they go to.

And your car won't run fine if the coolant temp sensor for the ecu is disconnected. There are three different coolant temp sensors on a 1G and only the one for the ecu will cause it to not start when cold. You can get it to start by spraying something flammable into the intake though. If you do this until warm it will fire right up.

I was spinning wrenches, started the car and drove about 15 miles, with the temp gauge never coming off zero. The car drove fine, although i never hit boost.

I would think the signal that goes to the ECU is the same one displayed on the dash?

I guess it's possible that the wire came off after the engine was running :confused:
 
Actually I assumed the original poster was running a 1G, I see it's a 2g. So I only give my statement 50% chance of being right since I don't mess with 2gs. However, you said it's a 6 bolt, and if that's the same thermostat housing and sensors/switches that came with it, it is the A/C switch like I said.


I would think the signal that goes to the ECU is the same one displayed on the dash?

I guess it's possible that the wire came off after the engine was running :confused:

You have a 1G, so I can answer with 100% certainty that no, the signal is not the same. The dash signal is sent from a simpe single pin sensor (thermal resistor). Unplugging it will only affect gauge function, the car will continue to run fine. As will disconnecting the A/C switch, only your A/C will be affected.
 
You have a 1G, so I can answer with 100% certainty that no, the signal is not the same. The dash signal is sent from a simpe single pin sensor (thermal resistor). Unplugging it will only affect gauge function, the car will continue to run fine. As will disconnecting the A/C switch, only your A/C will be affected.


That makes more sense. I rewired all of it, so i did't realize it was the single pin causing the problem.

Good to know, thanks.
 
On my 2g theres a single red wire that connects and is the function for the gauge cluster temp. The one with 2 black wires if unhooked, makes my car not run, or run like crap. It must be checked by the ECU then, and messing with overall function of the car running. Just my opinion, as i still have the knowlegde of a newbie.
 
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