wont rev past 4k falls on face

[95tale]

So my 1g eclipse wont rev past 4k its misfiring and wants to fall on its face at 4k I dont have a boost leak. I dont know if a vacuum leak would cause this or not I just finished my swap and would love to drive my car. Please help

 

[95tale]

And just to clarify, the ECU is LOOKING at the maf not telling it what to do so it is sending info to the rest of the setup partially based on its maf reading. All the sensors on the car tell the computer what to do given certain values, not visa versa. If you don't have any tuning ability then I would use all stock turbo equipment....I have two kids too and am a single dad, I know all about the money issue, its pretty thin around my house too. I didn't know if a non turbo car had the same plug for the maf as a turbo car but evidently it does if you were able to plug yours in. Does this make a little sense on the computer reading values from your sensors (and maf is one)? A non turbo maf would never see the volume of air that a turbo maf would see so MAYBE that is one of the deals on your car.

Ok I see what u mean. That makes sense. Thanks ill do all the little stuff first like plugs. Wires and coil and go from there.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Smart move. Keep us posted and we can try to help like everyone helps me.

 

[Kingarex]

Check oil level/pressure. This happened to me.

 

[95tale]

Oil pressure is good. Oil level is good. I fixed my boost gauge and it reads -20 idk if that is good or not at idle

Update.... ok so I found out the problem and when I wired in my injector resister pack I wired one of my injectors backwards. Now there is no misfire and I can rev past 4k. I just have fuel cut. But im going to put a turbo fuel pump on and ill be driving.

 

[95tale]

Ok now my a/f gauge says im running lean on start up but when I drive it it goes rich. My exhaust mani gasket is leaking. And car will rev to about 5k then act like its hitting a rev limiter. Wtf I dont get it.

 

[Boostdriven]

I think there is a difference between a turbo and non-turbo MAF sensors. The turbo MAF will have 7 pins and the non-turbo will have 6. If you converted your n/a car to a turbo, you will need to use a turbo MAF and run one extra wire from the MAF sensor to the ECU. Here is a page that might help you a bit more.
http://www.angelfire.com/il2/freestyle/turboconversion.html

 

[95tale]

I think there is a difference between a turbo and non-turbo MAF sensors. The turbo MAF will have 7 pins and the non-turbo will have 6. If you converted your n/a car to a turbo, you will need to use a turbo MAF and run one extra wire from the MAF sensor to the ECU. Here is a page that might help you a bit more.
http://www.angelfire.com/il2/freestyle/turboconversion.html

I just did the engine swap. And I read on here that the 7th wire is just for the stock boost gauge and skipped it cause I gave a boost gauge

 

[Boostdriven]

DSM MAF pinout - Mitsubishi Forum - Mitsubishi Enthusiast Forums
2G MAF in a 1G TEL/GVR4
Here are few sites that show the wire layout for 1G MAF. My guess the one wire that you don't have connected is the one that goes to Idle Position Switch, which has nothing to do with the factory boost gauge. Factory gauge gets its signal from the ECU and not directly from the MAF sensor. ECU gets its signal from the MAF sensor via totally different wire (air flow signal) and then sends the signal to the boost gauge. Personally I've never did the swap but I had a friend who did it. I remember he had to add 2 wires to his ECU to make this work right. One was knock sensor and the other was the additional wire that turbo MAF sensor has.

 

[Boostdriven]

Delete, double post

 

[95tale]

DSM MAF pinout - Mitsubishi Forum - Mitsubishi Enthusiast Forums
2G MAF in a 1G TEL/GVR4
Here are few sites that show the wire layout for 1G MAF. My guess the one wire that you don't have connected is the one that goes to Idle Position Switch, which has nothing to do with the factory boost gauge. Factory gauge gets its signal from the ECU and not directly from the MAF sensor. ECU gets its signal from the MAF sensor via totally different wire (air flow signal) and then sends the signal to the boost gauge. Personally I've never did the swap but I had a friend who did it. I remember he had to add 2 wires to his ECU to make this work right. One was knock sensor and the other was the additional wire that turbo MAF sensor has.

Originally Posted by#mavisky#

here is the 1g turbo ecu color coded pinouts, this is invaluable when working with the engine wiring harness:http://www.dsmtalk.com/gallery/data/...2_model_1_.jpg

you will need the turbo ecu. Simple as that.#

You can either obtain a stock 1g turbo engine wiring harness or modify your factory non/turbo harness by adding the following wires:

#》》》》→→- the 7th wire from the mas needs to be run back to ecu pin #6. This wire is for the stock boost gauge (which is worthless anyways) so you can skip this step and use the stock n/t mas, especially if you are keeping the n/t gauge cluster (as it doesn't even have the boost gauge. Either way, make sure you buy a real boost gauge.#

#- one wire can be grounded to the engine bay somehow, the other white wire needs to be run back to ecu pin #9.

#- one wire here will be grounded, the other returns to the ecu pin #105. Or you can switch to a manual boost controller (mbc), in which case this solenoid will be unnecessary.#

#- here is a tech article written by#timgon how to wire the fuel injector resistor pack into a non-turbo harness:#Injector Resistor Pack Wiring (1G N/T -> Turbo Conversion)#

here are the factory ecu prints. The highlighted ones need added, and the model is in the upper corner so you don't get confused.

Attachment 59276
Attachment 59277
Attachment 59278
Attachment 59279#

 

[Boostdriven]

Sorry been a bit busy so didn't have time to get back to you, I hope you figured out the problem with your car if not then again I would suggest looking in to that 7th wire to the MAF sensor. Just because someone says that the 7th wire is for the boost gauge does not make it true, and here is why I say that. I have a car that has been converted to speed density with ECMLink v3. With SD that 7th wire isn't used but somehow my factory boost gauge still works. The only wires that are used from the factory MAF plug are power, ground, air temp and baro. So how does the factory boost gauge gets its signal when the end of that 7th wire is not connected to anything. Like I already told you, ECU gets its signal from the MAF sensor, in my case that would be from a map sensor, then it converts that signal in a volts and sends it to the gauge witch essentially displays the boost pressure.

I'm not 100% sure on the function of that 7th wire on a turbo MAF sensor, I guess I never really had the need to find out but whatever it is I don't think it has anything to do with the boost gauge. If you look at both of the web links I posted you will see that even the name/description of that 7th wire indicates that it serves a different purpose then the boost gauge. I'm not trying to prove anyone wrong, I'm just trying to figure out your problem.

Another thing you need to do if you haven't done it already is a boost leak test. If you have a boost leak somewhere after the turbo but before the throttle body it could also cause similar issues like you're describing.

 

[95tale]

Sorry been a bit busy so didn't have time to get back to you, I hope you figured out the problem with your car if not then again I would suggest looking in to that 7th wire to the MAF sensor. Just because someone says that the 7th wire is for the boost gauge does not make it true, and here is why I say that. I have a car that has been converted to speed density with ECMLink v3. With SD that 7th wire isn't used but somehow my factory boost gauge still works. The only wires that are used from the factory MAF plug are power, ground, air temp and baro. So how does the factory boost gauge gets its signal when the end of that 7th wire is not connected to anything. Like I already told you, ECU gets its signal from the MAF sensor, in my case that would be from a map sensor, then it converts that signal in a volts and sends it to the gauge witch essentially displays the boost pressure.

I'm not 100% sure on the function of that 7th wire on a turbo MAF sensor, I guess I never really had the need to find out but whatever it is I don't think it has anything to do with the boost gauge. If you look at both of the web links I posted you will see that even the name/description of that 7th wire indicates that it serves a different purpose then the boost gauge. I'm not trying to prove anyone wrong, I'm just trying to figure out your problem.

Another thing you need to do if you haven't done it already is a boost leak test. If you have a boost leak somewhere after the turbo but before the throttle body it could also cause similar issues like you're describing.

I believe I fixed all the leaks I cheaked all my ic piping. But I do have a leak coming from my exhaust manifold gasket i dont know if that could be a problem but I ordered a mbc cause now I just gave a vac line going to my j pipe to my wastgate. And yea im buying a turbo maf tonight when I get off work. a guy on here pm'd me and had one for sale for 20 buks ill run that 7th wire then. I still need to wire in my knock sensor and put my turbo fuel pump in. I got the car to stop missfiring that was an injector wire I had on backwards when I wired in new connectors. But now im kinda leaning twards maybe a leak from my injectors or my timing may be off a little it revs high and is lean at idle but rich when I drive. It drives ok but starts to buck when it hits around 5k and idle surges from 1k to1.5k so idk whats wrong I changed the iac tried to move the cas and it seamed to get better but when I drove it it had like no power so yea im at a loss . But ill run that wire when I get the turbo maf u seam to know what ## talking about. And that link I posted shouldent be up if its missleading information know what I mean but there are my problems if u need to know more feal free to pm me or call 9377310239 names jahlen

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

A leaky exhaust mani gasket will make the O2 or Wideband sensor read erroniously since some of the a/f mix is getting out before the sensor see's it. I was having that problem with my header so I went to a FP mani since the Chinese header had a warped flange. My a/f's are better now. Just some info that I am going through currently that may be similar to yours. I have leaks at my TB shaft so I am putting a kit in the TB (new seals and FIAV gasket) to get that leak fixed also. It all comes into play when trying to tune these little beasts. Every little leak makes a difference so seal up everything you can. Just trying to help out.

 

[95tale]

Yea I need all the help I can get thanks. Ill get all the leaks out and see where that gets me

 

[hotrodssnova]

The factory boost gauge is a mathematical estimate created by the ecu.