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Wisemen and knowledgable tumers , 14000 rpm cfm? [Merged 7-7] STUPID high

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sweet97 said:
I start to hit 20psi at about 4400psi, that was last year and I am still pulling hard when i shift at 8500rpm's
after learning about the spool up of the hx35 and hx40 (as well as how long it will pull), i decided it would be a good idea to increase how far my car can go before i need to shift; of course, this was when i had more money to play with and was still considering a drag car. actually, i was considering something larger, http://www.holset.co.uk/files/2_1_1_5-HX50-55.php - my intentions had been to acquire it and find out approx where it spools... and add nitrous if necessary. naturally, i would need a separate 3" exhaust just for the wastegate ;)
i realized this would all be very expensive and require extensive planning... hence the reason i never got around to actually starting construction, i bought a house instead :shrug:
 
It's too bad Bullseye did not ever offer a larger turbine as they got into these large compressor compressors. Still like I said mine is still pulling at 8500 when I shift. What I am not sure of is whether it is pushing too hard to make the power. That is why I will log the airflow at various amounts of boost so I can find the amount that makes the most flow/power. Then work on what max timing I can have with that amount of boost. Now at 30psi I am at 18* advance which is pretty good. This may sound strange but the engine seems to like 100 unleaded just as much as 110 leaded. Of course the leaded I bought was almost for sure last years left over. I'll be posting the numbers here and I hope by sometime next week. mark
 
nanokpsi said:
If the 2xs had a greater accleration rate than the fp3s, then they would be more square ;) The fast accleration is what makes them appear more square. The lifts are similar, but the "x" denotes it has a faster ramp rate the the fp2. I didn't mean to sound rude, but I was trying to pass on info from Robert @ FP.

FP2X:
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FP3:
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I did overlaid the images in paint. I will post that overlay later. Until then, here's what I saw with the overlay. . .

The FP2X exhaust has more lift and higher ramp rate than FP3 exhaust. The FP2x intake has more lift and similar ramp rate as the FP3 intake w/ about 7* more lobe center (which pushes the power band up in the rev range) than the FP3.

The FP2X exhaust has less lift and similar ramp rate as the FP3X exhaust w/ about 7* lower lobe center than the FP3X exhaust. The FP2X intake has less lift and similar ramp as the FP3x intake w/ about 2* less lobe center than the FP3X.

FP2x vs. FP3: FP2X has higher exhaust ramp rate, more exhaust and intake lift, and a higher intake lobe center. OMG

I am certainly not disputing RobertOMG . To do so would be foolish at best. HOWEVER, as you can see, the FP2X seams better suited to higher rpms, has the same or more ramp rate, and has higher lift than the FP3s. This is why I went w/ the 2Xs.
 
dsm-onster said:
The FP2X exhaust has more lift and higher ramp rate than FP3 exhaust. The FP2x intake has slightly more lift and similar ramp rate as the FP3 intake w/ about 7* more lobe center (which pushes the power band up in the rev range) than the FP3.

The FP2X exhaust has less lift and similar ramp rate as the FP3X exhaust w/ about 7* lower lobe center than the FP3X exhaust. The FP2X intake has less lift and similar ramp as the FP3x intake w/ about 2* less lobe center than the FP3X.

FP2x vs. FP3: FP2X has higher exhaust ramp rate, more exhaust and intake lift, and a higher intake lobe center. OMG

I am certainly not disputing RobertOMG . To do so would be foolish at best. HOWEVER, as you can see, the FP2X seams better suited to higher rpms, has the same or more ramp rate, and has higher lift than the FP3s. This is why I went w/ the 2Xs.

Glad you at least put more effort into your position than I did. I guess I just wasn't convincing enough, way to git'r dun :thumb: . But seriously, I think nanokpsi is just too narrowminded to accept the reality of your comparison. And once again, awesome comparison! If its not blatantly obvious which cam is overall a more aggressive cam then I really don't know what else you could say to prove that point Matt.
 
Great job with the comparisons Matt. Great to see how much better the FP2x will be out the box than the 4s with the less amount of overlap.
 
Bigger turbo for top end and engine management for tuning...and thats good that you shift out @ that rpm b/c otherwise you'll be just riding dead gear that falls off power....give us more info on your set up
 
It depends on your turbo, if you have a smaller turbo its going to spool really fast because it doesnt take much exhaust pressure to get it going, but it wont flow much air because of its size and die out before reaching redline as exhaust flow increases and the turbo is at max air output at like 5k. On the flipside if you have a bigger turbo its going to take longer to have it spooled due to the fact that needs much more exhaust pressure to get it going but once it does it flows twice the air(mroe than a small turbo) in general.

In conclusion, you can have it last until fuelcut if you have a bigger turbo that will support it. You also asked you wanted the rev to go higher, you can always have some head work and it will rev higher, cams, etc...

I hope this helps,

gl.
 
diablos991 said:
Follow the upgrade path listed on this site. It will be very beneficial.
As this member said, follow the proven upgrade path. Until you upgrade your stock intake manifold and cams you'll be fighting a tough battle trying to improve power up top. However, those are not good beginning mods. You need to start from the beginning.

It really doesn't matter what your redline is, it matter where your power drops off.
 
Stock redline is really at 7500RPMs. Anything smaller than a 20G, you should shift at around 6500RPMs.
 
ive taken my stock engine on a trip to 7500 before and there was nothing up there to be found... In other words my car fell on its face after pretty much 7000 rpms when I couldve just shifted and got back into my power band and not have been stressing the engine out. Plus at 7500 you will hit fuel cut because the ecu doesnt want you to rev any higher.
 
Try some cams. My AWD pulls A LOT better (Above 6k) that my buddies FWD w/big 16g turbo, and the only other diffence is that mine has a set of crane cams
 
What do i need. Im rebuilding the internals ( piston,rings,crank and rods ) so what do you think i need to buy? I have Bushur fmic, 61 trim t3, 660s, afc , gm maft, 255 fp, and 2k to spend on the rebuild. Do I need an anything else?
 
More money for one thing.

Why do you have the 10k number in mind? We don't have Indy car motors they don't need to spin 10k.
 
Your gonna need some upgraded head parts. Like springs and retainers. Unless you like blowing out springs and wrecking your new pistons with valves.
 
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