The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Wisemen and knowledgable tumers , 14000 rpm cfm? [Merged 7-7] STUPID high

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Definitely lots more money!! And for sure a lot of work in the head to withstand that sort of rpm level. I would say build it for 8k or so and call it a day.
 
Honestly you are not going to be able to turn 10,000 rpms with a 2,000 dollar spending limit and have an engine that will last more than a few weeks if not days. The rods,pistons, and rings are close to 1000-1200 dollars alone. I would recommend building it to 8 or 8500 rpms and call it good. Doing 10,000 is going to cost ALOT more. Your going to need a whole new valvetrain, cams,springs, lifters, titanium retainers, ect. Also most turbo's arnt going to make much more power past 8 or 9k rpms anyway. So then your also going to need a different turbo. It gets VERY expensive.
 
ok. Not 2k for pistons and rods but for misc. What about the ignition? And what will hold 8500. Which piston rod combo? Dont worry about the budget ive got plenty of money, but i dont want to spend it were i dont need to. p.s ive got a 61 trim turbo.
 
Dont worry about the budget ive got plenty of money p.s ive got a 61 trim turbo.

A fool and his money are soon parted. You are not ready for this kind of a project if you are asking these kind of questions. You need to do some searching and researching, learn a little more about these cars and work your way up as you gain some knowledge.

What exact turbo are you using? Trim is only relative within a series of turbo.
 
Built 2.1 Destroked motor (9.0:1 or 10.1:01 comp), built head with oversized valves and dual valve springs, ti retainers, bronze valveguides, etc....Everything fully balanced...A special set of cams to help with a powerband that high

And a built up the ass trans, which will still probably break
 
will my .82 a/r gt3582r support my motor to 10,000 rpm. if not can i port the huosing?
 
You have a large a/r. I wouldn't worry so much about porting it. It should be fine. Just tune for knock.
 
Why do you want to rev to 10k? You will be past the efficiency of the turbo, and probably out of the efficiency range of the cams you are going to run. You go fast by staying in the powerband, not by revving out your motor to high rpms.
 
So I am doing a build and I know it is going to take me well over a year...maybe even two to get the car to where I want it to be. (that is once I find a decent enough shell for my build ROFL) I am going with the BW s362 with the extended tip. I hear of them coming out with a new RACE cover for it, so I may also be looking into that.

But on to the question....I am planning to rev my motor up to 9,000K+ seeing as how many vendors that I have talked to said the turbo will still put out great power at those rpm's. I am going 6bolt block, 6 bolt head with full out port work. I will be most likely using FP2x cams and either Dual springs or Beehive springs with some nice valves and seals you know the works. For the block, I already have a machined 6 bolt bored .20 over with brand new Ross 8.5:1 pistons and fairly new Eagle H-Beam rods. The crank will be micropolished and lightened and everything will be balanced and blueprinted. Now I am wondering is this going to be able to withstand constant pulls to over 9,000? And I want to build this once, not build it and take it apart a month later because something went bad. So basically if this isn't more than capable to be constantly revved to over 9,000 , then what do you guys think I should go with to accomodate my goals?
 
You can do it, but I think you would definitely want some lightweight forged rods with the small end bushed. As the method of lightening, it would be a good idea to have the crank knife-edged (preferably a forged crank)


Also, I don't know exactly what the FP2x's can be compared to (280's?)... but you usually want a 280* or 288* cam to rev to 9000
 
All you need to do to run 9k RPM's is shift back into second from third while wide open. Seen that happen a few times... Just kidding. I have a friend who's car i helped build and he's running 272's (both int and exh) and we shift his car at 8500 and it has no issues going to 9, but after than it falls kinda flat. He is running titanium retainers and just a set of crower springs (only supposed to be 15% over stock but they rev out just fine)
 
hey guys i wonder if there any way that i can turn my car into a higher level of rpm becuase our cars only go up to 7 then the red line i was just wondering if any of you guys got any idea of doin this with no harm or over doin the engine performance
 
Why would you wanna do this? You understand engines and transmissions have powerbands, so the higher the rpms doesn't necessarily mean more power.
 
well...you should start with more aggressive camshafts/cams gears..... higher compression pistons for more power up top.... and some kind of tuning ECU (keydriver chips also works) to let you set your rev limit/fuel cut... and a few more stuff...stronger rods , some headwork (Valves, retainers,etc)
 
Swap for a GSX-R 600 motor.ROFL You'll have no torque but spin to over 15,000 RPM. ROFL Seriously though, when incresing RPM there's a point of diminishing returns where the added stress / wear are not equal to the added performance. Rough example, say you double the RPM from 7,000 to 14,000. The wear and stress on the motor is not doubled. Roughly speaking I think it would be quadrupled since E=MV^2 but then again RPM is not equal to piston speed. If someone did the math, I'm sure it's way more than 4x the energy. The manufacturers have set the rev limit for optimum reliability and performance. Some raise a few hundred RPM but realistically, why? Just turbocharge and increase boost and you'll have way more than a N/A 11,000 RPM motor. :tease:Don't let Initial D fool you!
 
The math for RPM, weights, and forces has been done and is available in
http://www.kidzuku.com/StrokeOrNot.pdf. That document also shows how power limits are controlled by air flow.

Different members here on Tooners have built 4G6X engines for every possible range of low end torque and max RPM. Search and enjoy.
 
It's not the engines fault it doesn't pull to a higher RPM, it's just the way it is with a small turbo. You need a quite a bit bigger turbo and cams to pull very good at much higher than 7 grand. Shep ran 10,500+, but it takes RPMs to make 1500HP on a 2.0. I make peak hp of 414 at only about 55-5600 RPMs even with cams, but if I had a bigger turbo the peak HP would be at a higher RPM.

Why are you so insistent on running a higher RPM anyways? This is a turbocharged car not a crotch rocket. If you want RPM get an R6 bike and you'll feel and hear what 16,000+ RPMs is like.
 
rotfl im gonna use that qoute
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top