4G64 hybrid into a Starion [Merged 9-7]

[Quasimondo]

Well i would like to know what my engine is doing at all times...i wouldn't want to carry a laptop around everywhere.....Im not sure ye,t money is a issue also, so well see what happens...it would be cool if some one a make a handheld tunning device... like dsmlink, only hand held...

Go to DSMLink.com for more info. There's been some folks who managed to write up a palm version of the dsmlink software so you don't necessarily need a laptop.

 

[SethA]

I am curious why you don't want to run over 20psi of boost or aftermarket cams? The stock 2g boost is 15psi (on some cars), 20psi is not much more. 4G63s make power by running lots of boost along with good tuning.

If I was looking to make 400hp I would stick with a 50 trim and save some money.

If you are worried about lag build a 2.3 or 2.4 liter.

Seth

 

[GRITZ]

15 psi stock..really....wow thats alot for stock.... i see your point....20psi it is

 

[dsmgrimreaper]

nope i plane on running 9:1 in my talon with a 50 trim a steady 20psi

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

I am curious why you don't want to run over 20psi of boost or aftermarket cams? The stock 2g boost is 15psi (on some cars), 20psi is not much more. 4G63s make power by running lots of boost along with good tuning.

If I was looking to make 400hp I would stick with a 50 trim and save some money.

If you are worried about lag build a 2.3 or 2.4 liter.

Seth

Stock boost on a 2G usually ranges from 10-12psi. 15 is above stock.

Either way, I don't see why over 20 would be a problem. Most big HP 4G63T's seem to run turbos that do best above 20 psi.

 

[dsmgrimreaper]

To add, im not much of a big boost lover either....All i see is over 20psi on everyones cars...man that seems like alot.....wouldn't running a higher compression, say 9:1 help.....or would that cause more problems? 20psi would be the max i would want to push i guess....i all depends on the turbo and my set-up i guess....

nope i plane on running 9:1 in my talon

 

[FusionTalon]

if you have the right head gasket and a balanced out compression ratio, no 11:1's then your engine will survive over 20 psi. Cams wouldnt hurt either....

 

[GRITZ]

do i really need cams to reach 400 hp? im trying not to spend a crazy amount of money on this thing....figure this... ($700) for fg pistons and h-beam rods(cheapest i found) the cost for the swap($500-600) ($600) for machine work on block ($400) for rebuild kit .......($600) dsmlink ($250 for chipped ecu).....($500-1000) for a turbo ($200-500) custom exhaust....All that just for 400hp reliable???? oh well

 

[tstkl]

Well i would like to know what my engine is doing at all times...i wouldn't want to carry a laptop around everywhere.....Im not sure ye,t money is a issue also, so well see what happens...it would be cool if some one a make a handheld tunning device... like dsmlink, only hand held...

get a palm IIIc on ebay for less than 40 bucks and use dsmlink for pda's cheap as possible. when your tuning you can switch to a laptop, and then use the pda to monitor. transfering the files between might get annoying if you switch often though...

what is the point of not getting better cams. you can get cams that dont raise the power band but flow better than the stock cams. if your going to use the stock cams, at least go with the 1993 cams since they are the best of any year dsm

15 psi stock..really....wow thats alot for stock.... i see your point....20psi it is

the evo9 is around 21 psi stock

do i really need cams to reach 400 hp? im trying not to spend a crazy amount of money on this thing....figure this... ($700) for fg pistons and h-beam rods(cheapest i found) the cost for the swap($500-600) ($600) for machine work on block ($400) for rebuild kit .......($600) dsmlink ($250 for chipped ecu).....($500-1000) for a turbo ($200-500) custom exhaust....All that just for 400hp reliable???? oh well

your going to need fuel, and cams arent needed, but will help. cheap and engine swap tend to be polar oposites. a 50 trim will be a lot cheaper and better if your goals are 400 hp. whp or crank hp? if its a 6 bolt you dont need a built bottom end assuming the engine your swapping is in good condition. a higher compression ratio will make spool up faster and give you more power, but will also raise temps of the intake charge before the spark plug ignites the mixture. (aka denotation) tuning and having a good fmic with a nice cold air intake should make this completely irrelivent. remeber that the evo9 has 8.8:1 compression ratio, 9:1 isnt that big. Im just saying in some extreme cases, this can happen, and you should watch out for it.

dont forget your intake piping and fmic, and like i said, YOU CANT MAKE 400 hp on the stock fuel system, you have a 255, but what injectors are you planning on running. 650 minimum I say.

 

[GRITZ]

I was going to use 680's or 720's.....I already have a a big front mount up grade on my starion(FMIC 24/12/3 3in in/out) 50 trim? what a/r's would i need .50 cold .63 hot whould that be to much? And what kind of spool can i expect with a 8:8 or 9:1 compression..

 

[GRITZ]

I have decided that im going to go with a gt35r or a gt30r turbo....I did a search on yahoo, and a honda made 475hp with a gt30r @ 18psi running 9:1 compression.. I saw the dyno sheet and spool pretty good on the 1.8 honda...!!! made boost @4400rpm

 

[bigblock]

GRITZ, the 4g63 Starion swap is something that I've wanted to do for a long time now,
here is a link you will find useful and CHECK out the trick dash swap!!!! (page 4)
http://www.starquestclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=48167&highlight=eclipse+dash+swap
EDIT: I did not realize this post was a year old, sorry

 

[dealz]

I have a 1988 Starion which I am planning on doing a 4G63 swap. I bought the car for $1500 with a rebuilt engine and new turbo, it has a perfect body no dents, no rust no damage, just needs a paint job and a new clutch. Ive been doing a lot of reading on the project. I'm planning on going with a fully built 6 bolt , Buschur racing stage 2 maybe 3 head and a 50 trim at 20 psi for weekend driving and 25-30 psi for the track(not sure of what tranny though. also looking to go with a good suspension I'm still not sure of what to use yet . if any one knows any good links with good information let me know. OK the real question is, are there any parts i can use on the 2.6 as well as the 4g63 (ex: exhaust, Intercooler pipes, etc) Thanks for the help.


Here are some of the links i have:

http://projectzerog.com/index.shtml

http://starion.turbomirage.com/index.html

http://www.26liter.us/

http://www.buschurracing.com/

 

[AWDfrank]

www.starquestclub.com is the best site for starion info.

I hope you have a big budget to do what you want...if you do your car will be awesome!

I planned on doing the 4g63 swap on my starion but it was to much work so I sold it and am building up my laser now.

 

[1g_tsi_awd]

For the tranny, I would look at Shep... He is a god in my book.

 

[asian312]

Hate to say it I dont thing Shep would touch this with a 10 foot pole.

Drag - The Buschur power glide option is the way to go. Pretty much handle anything the 4G63 can throw at it. The R&D is done and simplifies this process.

Track (twisties) - Would recommend turning around here. There are very few options for suspension setups on the Starquests. I had a conversion kit that used MR2 Koni/AGX struts with custom coilovers made by a fellow named Artinst on the www.starquestclub.com. They seemed to do fine for track work, but they couldn't handle the abuse on the streets. There are a few individuals who are pioneering other setups and can be frequently found in the group buy section (search for Oscar). Then comes the engine. If you want a manual, your in store for a headache. To use a 4G63 you need to source out an '89 Mighty Max tansmission (think that was the year). From there you have the option of swapping out the stronger conquest tranny internals into that bell housing and using the conquest extension housing. This will allow the engine and tranny to sit with the stock tranny/engine mounts (using the mighty max engine mounts) but run into the problem with the water neck assembly in the firewall. Alternativly you can fab up some engine mount plates and move the engine and tranny 1" forward, there are 3 sets of possible tranmission mount holes so your good there. Then you have the headache of dealing with the cable operated clutch (starquests use hydralics). Needless to say, make you can are comfortable with fabrication before tackling something like this.

The biggest thing that turned me away from the 4G63 Quest project was the lack of aftermarket support. As a drag car Buschur has things under control. For anything that requires a manual there are better starting platforms that are much more cost effective. Then again there are those of use that continue to tinker with DSMs....is that passion or pride...or may be we're all just insane

 

[dealz]

Hate to say it I dont thing Shep would touch this with a 10 foot pole.

Drag - The Buschur power glide option is the way to go. Pretty much handle anything the 4G63 can throw at it. The R&D is done and simplifies this process.

Track (twisties) - Would recommend turning around here. There are very few options for suspension setups on the Starquests. I had a conversion kit that used MR2 Koni/AGX struts with custom coilovers made by a fellow named Artinst on the www.starquestclub.com. They seemed to do fine for track work, but they couldn't handle the abuse on the streets. There are a few individuals who are pioneering other setups and can be frequently found in the group buy section (search for Oscar). Then comes the engine. If you want a manual, your in store for a headache. To use a 4G63 you need to source out an '89 Mighty Max tansmission (think that was the year). From there you have the option of swapping out the stronger conquest tranny internals into that bell housing and using the conquest extension housing. This will allow the engine and tranny to sit with the stock tranny/engine mounts (using the mighty max engine mounts) but run into the problem with the water neck assembly in the firewall. Alternativly you can fab up some engine mount plates and move the engine and tranny 1" forward, there are 3 sets of possible tranmission mount holes so your good there. Then you have the headache of dealing with the cable operated clutch (starquests use hydralics). Needless to say, make you can are comfortable with fabrication before tackling something like this.

The biggest thing that turned me away from the 4G63 Quest project was the lack of aftermarket support. As a drag car Buschur has things under control. For anything that requires a manual there are better starting platforms that are much more cost effective. Then again there are those of use that continue to tinker with DSMs....is that passion or pride...or may be we're all just insane

yup still not sure what i want to do about the suspension but as for the transmission goes im leaning towards going with one of Bill Hinchers bellhousings which will fit the r-154 transmission to the 4g63 it will hold up alot better than the mighty max tranny. http://projectzerog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=382&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=140.
the water pipes: http://projectzerog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=382&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=140

there is tons of helpful info at http://projectzerog.com/index.shtml on the starion 4g6x swap

Ill post pics as soon as I start on it and will keep you guys informed