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Wiring AEM Gauges

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PrimerPLus

10+ Year Contributor
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Jul 28, 2011
Tokyo, Asia
So I am about to install my AEM gauges and I was wondering how the best way to wire them together would be. I need the use of my cigarette lighter. I read that you can connect to the fuse box. I was looking for some write up for that or if anyone could explain it for me.

Gauges are AEM Uego Wideband, AEM Boost Gauge, AEM Oil Pressure Gauge.
 
I would make a harness for the power and then one for ground that way you only run one wire for each one.
 
The AEM boost gauge needs to be connected to an IG1 source because it needs to be powered during cranking because of the free air calibration. IG1 is the only source that is powered during cranking. The oil and wideband gauges you can use IG2 as power.

I used fuse taps to get power for my AEM gauges from the fuse box, I got mine from advance, pretty sure they were about $10 each but you can get them on ebay MUCH cheaper...I was in a rush.

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And off topic but why the heck doesn't AEM make a digital uego EGT gauge, they make one for the mechanical gauges but not one for the digital wtf.

Also if your using an a-pillar like me, try using a piece of wire feed down into the corner between the windsheild and the dash and tape the wiring harness to that wire with duct tape. It makes it soo much easier to get the gauge harnesses pulled up though that small spot.
 

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Awesome thanks for the tips. Yah I have that same gauge pillar. I am waiting for the aem boost gauge to arrive so I have some time. I see you have the 35 psi boost gauge are you happy with that one or would you switch to the 50 one?
 
I've been told the best place to wire the WBO2 to is one of the ECU wires. This was posted by Thomas Dorris of ECM Link on their forum. However my note book isn't here with me now so I will have to post it later tonight.
 
I have wired all my aem gauges to a 4 pin relay so the power comes straight from the battery the relay is activated by a live from the ecu this way they stay on when cranking the car.
 
Awesome thanks for the tips. Yah I have that same gauge pillar. I am waiting for the aem boost gauge to arrive so I have some time. I see you have the 35 psi boost gauge are you happy with that one or would you switch to the 50 one?

Sure np man. I'm happy with the 35 psi gauge, I only run 15 psi right now anyway and I'll most likely never go above 25 psi.
 
So Blurred Talon, you are saying I can cut one of those wires to 12 or 25 and use it to power my Wideband correct?

Do I need to reconnect the other side back after i have soldered in my wideband?
 
I used pin 25 (ECU +12 power supply) to trigger a regular relay so my gauges are on anytime the ECU is on

http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/2GECUPinout.pdf

Do no cut
Strip a tad bit of insulation off the wire
take out pin 25 of the socket / connector
slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the wire
SOLDER the wire onto the exposed wire
slip heat shrink over the exposed section and shrink

Or use electrical tape

For main power I ran two wires from the battery. The main wire harness runs through the firewall on the passenger side slightly covered by the floor carpet. Lots of room in that cutout
 
I ran two 10 ga wires directly from the battery + and - to a *terminal block* located under drivers side dash, left side

Don't really need 10ga size but I plan on wiring in some heated seats later

I can post a diagram if you are interested but others have been fine with simpler methods LOL
 

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haha. Yah a pictorial diagram for dummies please LOL. I do not want to mess up my gauges or the electrical. I just want them to work like they should as accurate as possible LOL.
 
Alright it will take me a minute to bang out the diagram but I'll get ya one

**Ok made this in Paint, I don't have fancy CAD software right now

You can get wire loom from Harbor Freight or eBay, it makes everything blend and ensures the wires don't short anywhere along it's travels. I ran my loom easily along the footspace-> below throttle pedal-> below steering boot-> over clutch pedal and suspended with a couple zip ties

Relay is the common 30A automotive relay

Like I said, I have plans for heated seats so that's why I went this route. Don't necessarily need to run wires directly from the battery, I'm pretty sure you can get away with tapping other wires under the dash
 

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Eh, it's the weekend, I have time LOL

Glad I could help

Oh and if you ever wanted to get real tricky, you can replace the toggle switch with a photoresistor type circuit so the auxillary gauge lights (if equipped, I assume AEM does) come on when the sun goes down, night time.
 
6 for ground and 2 for +12 (gauge power supply)

3 is if the gauges have an auxillary light.

Like my autometer oil pressure has a light so I hooked up one wire to ground (6) and the other wire goes to 3. When you flip the switch, 3 now has +12V so the light turns on
 
Nice looking setup

My terminal block is pushed up into the corner of where the 2G interior fuse block is, mainly because the wires leading off one of the gauges were very short and my gauges are on the A pillar
 
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