Why water injection is the best mod I've done in years...

[laser92awd]

put a check valve in it. Not expensive, keeps pressure in the line, and no chance of that happening again.

Are you saying that with a check valve in down at the nozzle facing the proper direction it will stop the drain effect even though the check valve is oriented the same direction gravity wants to pull the water (downward)? Does water only pass through a check valve at a certain pressure (higher than gravity), and never in the opposite direction?

Thanks!

 

[RallyxDave]

The Aquamist check valves that I use require 15psi to open, so the force of gravity will not make it open.

 

[Bohrn]

nice setup Dave My car is a daily driver so the Jazz cell would be in the way, but I see with your cage in there it don't matter

And yea the 15psi crack pressure valve will not allow siphoning or gravity leak past it.

Dave, are you running both the .7 and the .9 at the same time? 1 switch and solenoid?

 

[laser92awd]

The Aquamist check valves that I use require 15psi to open, so the force of gravity will not make it open.

Awesome, that will solve my problem, thanks!

BTW, the check valve is Aquamist part # 806-249 if anybody else needs one.

 

[4wd-Eclipse]

Awesome, that will solve my problem, thanks!

BTW, the check valve is Aquamist part # 806-249 if anybody else needs one.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1333499&postcount=63

 

[Spln_Hrd]

first off sorry i didn't make my own thread but it seems you guys are the people to ask anyways.

i have a bad boost creep problem, after installing my 34mm flapper. i boost to about 20 psi. i have stock injectors and intercooler. so i was gonna get a big ass fmic and some 650's so i could run 20 psi on pump gas. but do you guys think if i did WI i could run my stock i/c at 20 psi? also just a quick note, i have a datalogger, and a hks s-afr already so i can tune my car.

 

[Bohrn]

first off, if thats still a t-25, NO WAY!!

if you have a better turbo, I guess its a question of what octane fuel your pumps carry.

I'd say if you have a fuel pump, injectors and 94 octane, a well setup water injection system should be able to let you run 20 psi.

There is a buddy of mine(post here too) that has a stock intercooler, stock 14b, stock injectors(but higher pressure) and he runs 20 psi on pump.

Each car is different tho.

 

[BluemeanieTSi]

wow, Bluemeanie, that would sure be a cheap system!! Hey if it works too, good job.

2 years i ran that, let it sit over winter, it always worked that following spring

 

[RallyxDave]

Dave, are you running both the .7 and the .9 at the same time? 1 switch and solenoid?

Yeah, both nozzles are triggered at the same time. I've thought about making it a dual stage system with different activation pressures but it's been working so good that I never bothered with it.

 

[Bohrn]

thanx Dave, thats how I was hoping to be able to run mine. I didn't want the cost, clutter and complexity of a 2 stage system.

Speaking of, someone should make solenoids that have a manifold pressure inlet barb on one side. Then you could have one unit for both the switch and the solenoid. Hell, you could even use the mounting point for ground, so all you'd have would be one power wire and one pressure inlet.

And then you could have a dual stage system, just build the soleniod that way.

 

[Spln_Hrd]

first off, if thats still a t-25, NO WAY!!

if you have a better turbo, I guess its a question of what octane fuel your pumps carry.

i doubt a t-25 would hold 20psi with the gate shut. i am running a ported 16g. 91 octane is the best i can do. but i plan to run 660s or larger and i already have a walbro 190. i am mostly wondering if i did a WI kit if i could run 20 psi in the winter on a stock ic with 91 octane and some fuel mods, i am sure in the summer i could hold 18 or maybe a little less. and a little knock is ok isn't it?

 

[Bohrn]

setup your WI, tune it to your best boost level without WI turned on, then up the boost till you can't. A small 16g is a very efficient turbo, and with WI, you might surprize yourself.

 

[laser92awd]

Today I got my check valve I ordered and added it to my lower nozzle today then made some test runs earlier this evening. The problem is SOLVED. There is no sign of any knock when I first get into it - the lines are staying pressurized between runs.

I am running (& holding) 21psi on a small 16G, getting no knock in any gear at any rpm, no boost creep, 800C max EGT's running at 8 degrees base timing on pump gas (when the weather is reasonably cool). It's almost TOO efficient. Man I love it when things are dialed in. I feel sure I have a solid 12 second car now, when I made my 13.03 pass I wasn't nearly as tuned as now. It is so consistant now, every datalog is like a mirror image.

I'm eyeballing cams but don't know if there is that much advantage on a small 16G, but my cam oil seals are leaking badly so if I'm going to pull it apart I might as well try the cams, right?

Well, I'll be out enjoying it until the next thing breaks.

 

[doug]

After seeing this thread, and some others, I have been reading up on WI systems and can't wait to put one on my car. There's one other local guy that has one, so I'll be picking his brain as well as some of you, maybe.

 

[Bohrn]

sounds really good man, glad its workin out for ya!!

Imma slap in a second nozzle soon too

 

[4wd-Eclipse]

You may need to have a look on this

http://snowperformance.net/products.asp?id=1

Next week I'll install stage2 on my friend 96 supra with dual jets setup.
I'm using Aquamist 1S kit with warning lights and I'm VERY happy with it

 

[GreenEagle]

Well, this thread has pretty much sold me on water injection. I’m thinking about going with a setup similar to laser92awd’s: the aquamist 1s with the .5 and .6mm nozzles. My only question is this: While the 420cc these nozzles inject is about right for high boost, high RPM conditions (about 18-20% of fuel flow), it seems like way too much for mid boost, mid RPM operation. For example if the WI activates at 12psi @ 3400 RPM, the water flow would be about 50% of fuel flow. This is WAY higher than the 15-25% that is considered ideal. Does this much water have any negative effects such as hesitation/bogging?

 

[chicagoboostin]

dont get me wrong but i believe that water injection is only activated at WOT

 

[ken inn]

dont get me wrong but i believe that water injection is only activated at WOT

water injection is very versatile. you CAN have it start at wot, but better before, because the water vapor's job is to absorb heat. so if it starts to do that before wot, now you can run more boost on the same fuel settings, which means more power. also, a good mod is a small switch inside the car, so if the system is heated up, like you just made a pass, with the engine running, you can up the rpms to about 3000, with the switch, you engage the water injection system, and it will then cool down the innards, and eliminate heat soak. this works REALLY well with a nozzle right after the turbo, so the whole system gets cool. i do this to convince non believers, they hold the outlet pipe, which will be hot. i rev the motor, engage the wi, and they can feel the pipe get cold. the response every time is "WOW". i have 3 nozzles, one right after the turbo that i only hook up in the summer. the other is right before the throttle body, and the 3rd is in the intake plenum, after the t/bdy, activated by a solenoid and another hobbs switch. the first 2 come on at about 5-6 lbs, the 3rd about 10-12.

 

[Bohrn]

definately not WOT only.

I have mine coming on at around 5psi.

 

[gogoquadzilla]

why not use nitrous, cools down and adds power. anyone know how much cooler or warmer nitrous compared to meth inj is?

 

[Bohrn]

of course N2o will be better, it will make more power, and make it cool too.

But Nitrous costs at least double, more like 4 times the cost of a water injection setup. It also costs WAY WAY more to refill. Like WAYYY@!!! more!! Also nitrous can have adverse effects on your engine, its only full throttle(AFAIK, might have changed that) and some people want to achieve thier power/timeslip goals without the squeeze.

Plust its right out illegal in some places, and frowned apon in most others. Gonna getcha alot more attention from the ol' five-oh.

 

[gogoquadzilla]

this kit theyre talkin about on here 300 bucks? you can get a cheap small shot like a sneeky pete or somethin for 200. true it does cost more to refill but you'll get more power out of nitrous and i have seen no adverse affects on engines when nitrous is set up RIGHT. thats just me though. now having said that, im not going to use nitrous on my car i'm going to go make my own water/meth inj kit for way less than i've seen them sold for. i'll let everyone know how it goes.

 

[VerbalKint]

In reply to Defiants post in this thread, where he stated that Water Injection is good for ANY Internal Combustion engine,

How would you go about setting one up on an N/A engine if the system is activated by boost pressure from the Turbo?

(And before some mis-reads that, Yes, I know a N/A Engine is Non turbo, therefore has no boost pressure)

 

[definitiveno]

In reply to Defiants post in this thread, where he stated that Water Injection is good for ANY Internal Combustion engine,

How would you go about setting one up on an N/A engine if the system is activated by boost pressure from the Turbo?

(And before some mis-reads that, Yes, I know a N/A Engine is Non turbo, therefore has no boost pressure)

I think it can be activated by throttle position, correct me if I'm wrong.