Why water injection is the best mod I've done in years...

[Baron4406]

My Cooling Mist setup came today, holy crap they ship fast!! Also I e-mailed them on a Saturday with a question and got an immediate response. Talk about a company with good customer support

Now lets get away from the petty debates and back to the "nuts and bolts" of the system. I have some questions for the guys here who are running water injection. On my setup at first glance I don't "need" water injection. I'm running an EVO 16G, 550's, 255 Walbro set at 38psi, Buschur front mount, HKS external. Setup works really well, at 20psi of boost I'm at 70% fuel trims. So why water injection?? I've played around and know I can get 25psi of boost, however I either have to pull timing big time or add fuel big time. With Water injection I'm hoping to pull way back on my added fuel and keep the factory timing. I'm also dumping my EFI PMS/ Pro-Flo MAF combo for MAFT Pro in speed density/ closed loop mode. Since I'll be losing the timing control I had with the PMS I'll have to really experiment and watch my logs. Since i won't be running a big MAF like I was I kinda wonder where the factory timing advance is gonna fall.

My question is where do you think I should start my Water injection at as far as boost level. They send the Hobbes switch to turn on at 10psi, but my setup doesn't even need extra fuel at 15psi. I was thinking of turning it on at 16psi. I know how to set these Hobbes switches, we used to use them in the old days when I was running turbo Dodges, we used them to turn on extra injectors.(Little to no hot rodding parts for them cars back then). My hope is that the MAFT Pro does what Mike claims it can. Since I'll be running speed density mode in closed loop the MAFT will pull back my fuel at 16psi when the water kicks in. I honestly don't know how this is gonna work, we'll see.

Also this setup I got has a 2.5 qt tank, where the heck do you mount this thing?? The only place I can imagine is to move my catch can from the battery/relay box area and move it closer to the engine. The big tank should fit there. Then the pump can maybe mount to a customs bracket I'm gonna make near where the factory Charcoal Canister used to be. BTW I got the M2 and M5 injectors. I plan on using the M2 for straight H2O, and M5 for water/Methanol.

 

[PSI TSI]

Well Cooling Mist's 100 psi pump isn't adjustable, and both them and BeCool want HP estimates to figure injector size. Well I'm not a Supra guy I could care less what HP my car has, I want 1/4 mile times. So Should I just get a couple of sizes of injectors??

Also they rate their injectors in Gallons per hour, not cc's.

I would be interested in seing this pump. I was under the impression that all shurflo pumps were adjustable and after all thats all that a coolingmist pump is.
I bougth a pump last summer that was rated at 100 psi and I jacked it up to 160 and used it all summer without a problem.
I would be interested in seing the head of that pump.

 

[Baron4406]

I would be interested in seing this pump. I was under the impression that all shurflo pumps were adjustable and after all thats all that a coolingmist pump is.
I bougth a pump last summer that was rated at 100 psi and I jacked it up to 160 and used it all summer without a problem.
I would be interested in seing the head of that pump.

Cooling Mist told me it wasn't adjustable, but I looked on the top of the pump and right there is an adjusting hex head screw. I'm probably gonna mount a guage on the pump so I can run it and set the PSI. I won't turn it up unless I need to.

Well I tried to mount that bag azz 2 1/2 quart tank somewhere in the engine compartment and no way its gonna fit. My only options are: 1. Relocate the battery to the hatch. This means I'll have to spend another $100 or so, plus all my searches on here and DSMTalk seemed to indicate there is no real agreement on the NHRA legality of the mounting. I don't wanna go through that trouble and expense and have tech tell me "NOPE". I race at Maple Grove and tech there is strict. 2. I could mount the tank back there, that would open up another can of worms. For one its would be rather hard to assure the tank is above the pump. I'd also have to run that water line a long way. This is probably the way I'll go. Jusging from what I saw with this kit, installing it is gonna be a nightmare, I don't even know when I'll get it installed. The wideband O2 and MAFT Pro are my first priorities.

 

[gy2005]

I don't know the physical dimensions of your tank but I was able to remove the windshield washer fluid bottle and move the power steering fluid reservoir over about an inch by just using one bolt and fit in a tank that holds close to 2 quarts. I mounted the pump right below the tank on the passanger's side fender wall where the washer bottle used to be.

 

[Slippi84]

I don't knwo if anyone is doing this but I plan on doing it as soon as I get around to ordering my water injection kit which you bet your ass I will, but anyway I was thinkink of getting the biggest container I can fit and mout it where the stock smic was and use the top smic bolt holes as a place to attach a custom bracket. this way you get the cold tempts and you don't have to run a line to the trunk to get the same temps. Anyone doing this or ever thought of it.

 

[DSM PERFORMANCE]

I don't knwo if anyone is doing this but I plan on doing it as soon as I get around to ordering my water injection kit which you bet your ass I will, but anyway I was thinkink of getting the biggest container I can fit and mout it where the stock smic was and use the top smic bolt holes as a place to attach a custom bracket. this way you get the cold tempts and you don't have to run a line to the trunk to get the same temps. Anyone doing this or ever thought of it.

Personnaly I would not do that, if you do it I suggest doing real strong structure to hold it, don't forget liquid will continually move and put stress on the holding structure.

 

[Slippi84]

Personnaly I would not do that, if you do it I suggest doing real strong structure to hold it, don't forget liquid will continually move and put stress on the holding structure.

Your talkin about backets that were made to hold a smic not being able to hold up a plastic container of water??? I'm not gonna make the brackets out of plastic they will be metal and attached to the container in a way that is sturdy so I mean I really see nothing but upsides to this idea. The container will be protected from everything close to the tb for short piping compare to trunk mounting and you don't have to try and squeez it in the engine bay with everything else.

 

[Burnett03]

personally i used my windshield washer bottle AS my water injection tank...

 

[gy2005]

I tried just tapping the windshield washer bottle at first but then the pump was about a foot or so higher than the tank. After cracking one housing on the pump (plastic) from overtightening and getting it replaced, I couldn't get the pump to hold a prime so I reverted to mounting the pump below the tank and found out it was probably just an air leak causing it to not prime because water was leaking where the brass fitting was screwed into the pump. Either way, air leak or not, with the pump being gravity fed you don't have to worry.

 

[mastadogg2]

Can you guys post some pictures up or explain where you mounted your pumps? I was thinking of mounting mine right below the factory front windshield washer fluid tank.

Heres how much water from a 1 gallon jug the front windshield washer tank used when i tested.. So im using the front.

I couldnt tell but the front looked bigger then the rear tank as well.. is it or no?

Im going with 2 nozzle setup, a M5 @ the tb elbow, spraying @ 180psi, and one directly after my supra sidemount (havent decided on size yet)

[Too big.]

 

[Funk1]

Here is where I mounted my Aquamist 1S pump, I used the 2G winsheild washer tank:

 

[mastadogg2]

Ah ya in the trunk........ Im trying to find some 1g guys that mounted near the front washer fluid tank, or should i just run it into the trunk.

 

[Funk1]

Ah ya in the trunk........ Im trying to find some 1g guys that mounted near the front washer fluid tank, or should i just run it into the trunk.

I didn't realize this was a 1G, at a quick glance I thought your car was a 2G by the pic. (Duh!)

But in that case, I recommend trying to mount the pump as close to the fluid reservoir as you can.

If you decide to use a separate reservoir in the trunk, mount it there. If you use the washer reservoir, pick a spot close to it. Reason being that the further you move the pump away from the tank, the harder it is for it to get primed and pressurize the WI (unless the tank is mounted above the pump).

Most small pumps used in these applications don't create a huge amt of vacuum until properly primed, which could lead to potentially burning the pump out prematurely.

FWIW.

 

[seminoles2005]

man ive been flipping through this thread for the last 30 minutes looking for anyone that would post what their a/f readings are when they tune thier car with a methanol mix. I plan on using a 80 methanol/20 water mix and without it spraying i know i should tune my car for a 11.5-11.8 range on my wideband but i want to turn the boost up and run around with the methonal but id like to know what you guys aim for when you tune it.

 

[LordDigi]

Wow, I have to agree with seminoles2005 about flipping through this thread although it's been more like a few days on and off for me! Very informative thread with great references

The only thing I've noticed that this thread is lacking is a cheap reliable alternative to the Aquamist, and similar, setups. So, I bring to you just that! After hours of searching and excitment, because I'll be using this setup , here it is ... Oh, BTW, it's a stage 2

417cc/min Fogger Jet………………………….Mc………23.00………4759T13
224cc/min Fogger Jet………………….………Mc………27.00………4759T12
15’ ¼” OD Blue hose………….……………...Mc………6.00………..5648K254
¼” tube 3/8” 90° Pipe Fitting (2)…..…..Mc………9.00………..1901K35
¼” tube 1/8” Female Pipe Fitting (2).…Mc……….4.00………..1901K28
¼” Tube ¼” Female Pipe Fitting (2)…..Mc……….5.00………..1901K29
¼” tube T fitting....………………………….....Mc………5.00…………1901K14
¼” tube ¼” Male Pipe Fitting……………...Mc………2.00………..1901K22
¼” Tube Check Valve………………………….Mc………14.00……….7933K32
Water Solenoid 1/8”.....………………………Mc……….52.00………7876K18
Inline filter (5)……………………………………..Mc……….4.00………..98355K841
SHURflo pump 100psi………………………….NT……….50.00……...8009-541-236
Pressure Switch 1-25psi (2)……………….CM………25.00……….09

Total - Stage 1 - $180.00 / Stage 2 - $285.00

Mc = www.McMaster.com
NT = www.Northerntool.com
CM = www.Coolingmist.com

All the parts listed will be a complete Stage 2 WI kit (minus some wire) If you minus certian parts you will come up with a Stage 1. The numbers on the far right are the part numbers. The two letters between the part and price is the abbreviation for the website that I got the parts from. This setup was built around the 1/4" instant tube fittings for easy installation You can change that if you want by searching around McMaster-Carr's site for the different fittings. The number in the parenthases is how many of that part you need.

I hope I didn't leave anything out ... enjoy