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Which / What Oil Should I Use? [Merged]

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What do u guys think to use on a 6bolt with 33k miles? i been using 10w-30 mobil 1 syn but i got lifter tick that only goes away when i get on it im thinkin to put in mobil 1 15w-50 on my next change heard it will quiet them lifters up since its thicker? Also worried when i was using mobil 1 syn 10w-30 in summer time racing the car was a bad idea cause its thin?
 
are they new lifters? aftermarket 3g lifters? if not then replace them, 10-30w is fine. i use it all year round.
 
i used to use castrol gtx 10w30. but switched to castrol syntech :thumb: idk what viscosity rating though.

and on the side note. the W in the rating does not mean weight :banghead:, who cares what their oil weighs. it means winter, it means that this oil has a changing viscosity rating meaning it is meant to be used during the winter. SAE 50 oil is for hot places bcuz the viscosity rating stays at 50.
 
No one making 100hp or more per cylinder should run a 30wt oil, especially on a turbo application. Modern sm oils have had a huge reduction in the additive package anyway, so no one uses them anymore.
 
and on the side note. the W in the rating does not mean weight :banghead:, who cares what their oil weighs. it means winter.
While this is true, I honestly doubt that anybody using the term "weight" was actually referring to the physical weight of the fluid. "Weight" has simply became a common replacement for the term "grade" when referring to the oil's viscosity, although grade is the true and proper term to use. :)
 
Is it bad if u have mobil 1 syn 10w-30 in the motor and add a lil mobil 1 syn 15w-50 when the dipstick is low and u wanna get it back to the top notch? I asked mobil this and Mobil told me Yes, you can mix without issue. You would essentially be producing a slightly thicker motor oil in composition that theoretically would provide a bit more heat stability bit at the same time decrease fuel economy due to the more viscous motor oil.
 
Is it bad if u have mobil 1 syn 10w-30 in the motor and add a lil mobil 1 syn 15w-50 when the dipstick is low and u wanna get it back to the top notch? I asked mobil this and Mobil told me Yes, you can mix without issue. You would essentially be producing a slightly thicker motor oil in composition that theoretically would provide a bit more heat stability bit at the same time decrease fuel economy due to the more viscous motor oil.

It's "OK" to mix grades short-term as long as they're the same compound (i.e. synth with synth, conventional with conventional).

I wouldn't do it long term and I'd only do it in a pinch.
 
It's "OK" to mix grades short-term as long as they're the same compound (i.e. synth with synth, conventional with conventional).

I wouldn't do it long term and I'd only do it in a pinch.

You can mix synthetic and conventional as well.
 
I told a dsmer about this and he said they wont mix even if they both are synthetic and mobil 1 cause 10w-30 is thinner then 15w-50 so its like a putting olive oil in water what happens it just sits on top and they will be battling off each other instead protecting what do u guys think? I think adding thicker to lighter will cause your oil to thicken up a lil more but i dunno?
 
You can mix different type of oils (Dino oil with Syn ~ syn blend with Dino, ect) What you don't want to do is mix different viscosity's of oil... .
 
i use to use mobile 1 but royal purple is so much better 4.5 quarts

Royal Purple is based off the same type of mineral oil so your really not gaining anything.

Just make sure you buy an oil that is the right grade, with a good ZDDP ppm number, doesnt have to be sythetic but it does help in the winter times, and has the real API symbol on it. Then you wont have any issues.
 
You can mix different weights and go from syntheitc to regular any time. The issue comes when you mix oils that will effect the viscocity of the oil where your engine was not designed for. Mixing 5w30 with 10w30 will not cause any issues, while mixing 0w20 with 20w50 will cause issues. Now mixing oils from different brands will most likely not cause issues the only real worry is the additives that all oil companies use. But most oils today are very simular and wont cause any problems. But it doesnt hurt just to stay with the same company just to be safe.
 
I guess What I should have said is you could Do it. but, it's not advisable. As long as they are the same type of oil then you can mix different viscosities. They are all compatible with each other your just not gonna know exactly what grade of oil you have an there really is no reason too

Basically addressing what you said earlier you would be fine you just would have a thicker oil...they won't phase separate or something crazy...
JUST DO NOT blend oils unless it is an Emergency Situation and then change at the earliest possible convenience

I would imagine that it would be possible for something of that nature happen if you mix a different brands, Grades, and Types since their's some many different additive packages out there

Oh and With everyone talking about using difarant viscositlys of Mobil 1.

This is strait from mobil 1 when asked what would be the best oil for an Evo running 30psi on methanol and changing the oil every 2-3k miles

For your high performance application, we would recommend you use Mobil 1 15W-50. The higher viscosity will provide better protection in conjunction with higher levels of anti-wear potentially needed with the turbo boost and severe operation and temperature. With your short change intervals, the product will still have adequate performance reserve remaining at oil drain. We need to mention that switching oils will cause you to give up some fuel economy but we're assuming this may not be your highest priority. You may also want to switch back in the colder months to the 10W-30 for better low temperature flow and protection.
 
I guess What I should have said is you could Do it. but, it's not advisable. As long as they are the same type of oil then you can mix different viscosities. They are all compatible with each other your just not gonna know exactly what grade of oil you have an there really is no reason too

Basically addressing what you said earlier you would be fine you just would have a thicker oil...they won't phase separate or something crazy...
JUST DO NOT blend oils unless it is an Emergency Situation and then change at the earliest possible convenience

I would imagine that it would be possible for something of that nature happen if you mix a different brands, Grades, and Types since their's some many different additive packages out there

Oh and With everyone talking about using difarant viscositlys of Mobil 1.

This is strait from mobil 1 when asked what would be the best oil for an Evo running 30psi on methanol and changing the oil every 2-3k miles

For your high performance application, we would recommend you use Mobil 1 15W-50. The higher viscosity will provide better protection in conjunction with higher levels of anti-wear potentially needed with the turbo boost and severe operation and temperature. With your short change intervals, the product will still have adequate performance reserve remaining at oil drain. We need to mention that switching oils will cause you to give up some fuel economy but we're assuming this may not be your highest priority. You may also want to switch back in the colder months to the 10W-30 for better low temperature flow and protection.
FP told me to run mobil 1 15w-50 when i had there fp green turbo but now i got a big 16g 22-24psi so u think mobil 1 syn 10w-30 isnt enough protection i mean i do get on it once a while but i dont beat on it everyday..its fall out here and lowest temps went so far was 25f at night but they range from 60s-25f day-night so 15w-50 syn i think would be to thick for these temps? I only added a lil 15w-50 in the motor when it had 10w-30 in it cause its what i had when i checked the oil the stick was a lil low so i think it should be fine i mean there both mobil 1 synthetics. By the way do u guys fill your oil to the 2nd line of the dipstick or the middle of it?
 
Just posting my experience. My 95 TSi AWD was fed dino oil its whole life, I bought it at 140k miles and changed the oil to German Castrol Syntec 0W-30. Not only did it love it, it quieted down the lifters and hasn't leaked a bit (at 143k now). I've read NOTHING but good about GC0W-30.
 
You should be fine with either. It does get pretty cold in Chicago and the 15W-50 is abut thick. IMHO for prolonged cold temp I'd just run 10w30 and I doubt if theres a foot of snow your gonna be mashing on it everywhere anyway ROFL

Personally, I've ran 10w-30 for years an never had a problem. But I Don't Rev Really high or drive that much in real hot Weather... .

Although I've been Contemplating switching to 15W-50 Because of the Better Formula designed for performance vehicles and the boosted levels of Zinc and phosphorus (nominal zinc level of 1850 ppm) Read: NO CAT:D

The Top line is Full ~ Add any time below it without overfilling

Just posting my experience. My 95 TSi AWD was fed dino oil its whole life, I bought it at 140k miles and changed the oil to German Castrol Syntec 0W-30. Not only did it love it, it quieted down the lifters and hasn't leaked a bit (at 143k now). I've read NOTHING but good about GC0W-30.

Not trying to Bash on you. But Offering your experience about a Oil after only running it one oil change(3k miles?) is not saying much...Unless you had it Tested Blackstone-Labs
 

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So u guys think mobil 1 10w-30 synthetic is not good enough for a stock 6bolt motor with 400hp?

Mobil 1 10W-30 is recommended for all types of modern vehicles, including ""high-performance turbo-charged"", supercharged gasoline and multi-valve fuel injected engines found in passenger cars, SUVs, light vans and trucks. so there lying?
 
As long as they are the same type of oil then you can mix different viscosities. They are all compatible with each other your just not gonna know exactly what grade of oil you have an there really is no reason too
I've always though this as well, but I was advised not to do so by our Brad Penn rep because of the different molecules in the oil weights becoming thinner at different rates. He claims you can do this with straight-weight oils no problem....meaning two quarts of SAE30 and two quarts of SAE40 will make a gallon of SAE35.

Supposedly this is why Brad Penn has developed so many weights in their Racing Oil line....there used to be only a handful, but the demand for various weights increased and people were under the impression that you could blend your own. Now Brad Penn offers a complete line of 10W30, 10W40, 15W40, 20W50 multigrades as well as SAE30, SAE40, SAE50, and SAE70 straight weights.
 
Alright I see alot of ppl running 10w30, but I just did an oil change and had some napa gold 10w30 and I notice that after I run it hard, like at the track or practicing launches when I let it sit, the oil pressure shows way low and my light goes on. How come it does that? Do I need a better oil or a different weight? I used the napa gold stuff cause it was sittin around.
 
I've always though this as well, but I was advised not to do so by our Brad Penn rep because of the different molecules in the oil weights becoming thinner at different rates. He claims you can do this with straight-weight oils no problem....meaning two quarts of SAE30 and two quarts of SAE40 will make a gallon of SAE35.

Supposedly this is why Brad Penn has developed so many weights in their Racing Oil line....there used to be only a handful, but the demand for various weights increased and people were under the impression that you could blend your own. Now Brad Penn offers a complete line of 10W30, 10W40, 15W40, 20W50 multigrades as well as SAE30, SAE40, SAE50, and SAE70 straight weights.

Makes sense that you couldn't with multi-grade oils.

but, you did kinda take what I said out of context... .

I was more or less trying to say yes in some instances it could be done but not to do it.
 
I was more or less trying to say yes in some instances it could be done but not to do it.
Wasn't trying to single you out, just wanted to add some info to your post from what was explained by my Brad Penn rep in an effort for people to get a better understanding of the situation, and why they should not blend multi-grade oils- even within brands / types.

All of the info thus far is top-notch. :thumb:
 
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