Which turbo - used?rebuilt?new?

[Mangold]

Ok, so I am simply trying to decide what to do for a turbo to replace my blown T-28. I am running a stock, freshly rebuilt late 98 split thrust bearing 7 bolt with ARP head studs & stock transmission.

I will be getting a Jack's built transmission pretty soon and I have a set of BC 272 cams getting ready to go in. I will probably also upgrade my Walbro 190 soon to at least a 255. The rest of my mods are in my profile but to summarize: DSMlink v3 w/ speed density, Greddy FMIC, fuel press reg, fuel lab filter, FIC 850cc.

I just want a turbo that will provide decent power 325-350 awhp for now and that I can turn up a little later when I go E85. Here are my options:

Rebuilt/ported Evo 3-16G (From MHI 14b) - $475
New e3-16g from 17c - $550
Used FP 68HTA (from part out - seller claims in good condition) - $650
New FP 71HTA - $1299

Thoughts?

 

[CountryDSM]

I just want a turbo that will provide decent power 325-350 awhp for now and that I can turn up a little later when I go E85.

This ^, I am in your exact same situation I would love to have some input.

 

[gieri002]

How sure are you that your goals for this car are not going to change? Go with the FP 68HTA (at that price) if you're looking to stick with a stock frame turbo, they are very reputable turbos that can make some pretty decent power without sacrificing spool. If you're willing to play with larger turbos, without the big price tag and with much more potential, you might want to consider a Holset.

 

[destruckeclipse]

Only 2 of those turbos will do that with room to grow. The 68HTA and 71HTA.

 

[Mangold]

I may play around with an HX35 down the road but I will probably do something like an FP 3076 for my 'drag' setup when I finish building my built 6 bolt. I should have mentioned that this next turbo is for a little road race and just general street mostly.

Thanks, I'm leaning towards the used 68HTA so I have money left to do a built transmission and fix a few other little cosmetic issues.

 

[TopGun8818]

I would get either "new" turbo and not the "like new" ones. It's honestly better to just buy a brand new turbo if you have the cash for it (used is used ). The evo 3 big 16g; IMO - is the best to replace your t-28. I actually replaced my T-28 with the 16g and it's a better turbo in every way. I guess it was cool to hit full boost at very low rpms (t-28) but then the power would fall off at the upper rpms . The 16g hits full boost a little higher but it keeps the powerband through the higher rpms unlike the T-28. I'm around 300hp at the crank and my goal is the same as yours which is the 325/350whp which is achievable with supporting mods to the evo 3 16g. It also depends like others stated what your ultimate goal is because you will require a fuel computer, cams, and injectors when you go with the bigger turbo. I currently run a 190lph and have boost set at 16psi with no fuel computer and no issues. You can look at my profile if you want to see the rest of the supporting mods.

 

[Kruger]

If I had multiple builds going, I wouldnt get anything more than adequate for the time being. Go with a new big 16g. Theres enough people making the power goals that you have, with that turbo. With your 6bolt swap, go GTX3076 or FP3076 if you want big power (like you said). I was planning to go to the GTX, but I decided to max out my current GT3076r before making the choice to upgrade. I dont know what kinds of high hp cars you have driven, but an awd DSM with 350awhp is a lot of fun. I made 333 awhp with a GT3071r (with a lot more tuning to be done). My buddy that works at my local tuner shop has made 430awhp with a 50trim with meth !!! thats ridiculous. The 50 trim flows 48lbs/min and my GT3071r flows 47lbs/min. That means that my GT3071r should have been capable of 400awhp with meth. Impressive for the size of turbo.

My point is, dont go bigger than necessary if you have a build going. I think you would enjoy the 16g.

I should mention that these numbers were made on a mustang dyno and 94 octane.

 

[JusMX141]

Either buy new or properly-rebuilt; they're essentially the same. Used is questionable unless you knew the source where it came from- I've seen plenty of customers send me "like new, used" turbos that were full of metal from a failing engine component.

By properly-rebuilt I mean that the rebuilder uses OEM-quailty internals, fixed any stripped holes or removed broken bolts, properly-repaired any turbine housing cracks or replaced the housing, and either retained the factory VSR balance spec or had the turbo VSR-balanced if a wheel was replaced.

There are lots of cut-rate "rebuilders" out there....ask a lot of questions and know what you're buying before you buy and there's no reason it won't last as long as a new OEM turbo at half the price.

 

[CountryDSM]

I'm not trying to thread jack here but as you seem to know where you want to go in my situation my budget is not as high. My goal is 350whp ( Yes of course I will want more but that can come later ) I have been recovering the car from atmo. bov and big 20g = racecar owners. I am now running link tuned professionally @ 20lbs, 750's, Short route piping/fmic, Wally 255, full exhaust, Hallman MBC, I have all the necessary gauges etc, and to sum it up the SMIM,Ex. M, and engine is stock. The rest is in mod info. The only problem is the "Shitxteen G" (16g) Ebay turbo (It has been ported along with the wastegate) . Now you may be like why the hell haven't you swapped the turbo, I just haven't considering it was a brand new turbo with receipts that came with it so I got everything else working and I don't even hit full boost other then when it was tuned because I'd rather not risk it. I may be near that goal, sorry for the star wars endless intro, but what it sounds like is that the Evo 3 16g is the way to go in my case? I would be getting a properly rebuilt turbo as the budget is around $600.

 

[Mangold]

Either buy new or properly-rebuilt; they're essentially the same. Used is questionable unless you knew the source where it came from- I've seen plenty of customers send me "like new, used" turbos that were full of metal from a failing engine component.

By properly-rebuilt I mean that the rebuilder uses OEM-quailty internals, fixed any stripped holes or removed broken bolts, properly-repaired any turbine housing cracks or replaced the housing, and either retained the factory VSR balance spec or had the turbo VSR-balanced if a wheel was replaced.

There are lots of cut-rate "rebuilders" out there....ask a lot of questions and know what you're buying before you buy and there's no reason it won't last as long as a new OEM turbo at half the price.

Appreciate the advice. Here are my thoughts right now. If I buy the 68HTA for $650 from a seller on tuners with a good reputation and it turns out to need a rebuild when I get it I can send it off to FP, pay $400-500 for a rebuild and still be ahead. (68/71HTA is $1299!).

It's a risk/reward proposition b/c if I get the turbo and it's in good shape I can run it for a while @ 20psi. Once I get the new transmission and motor put in I can upgrade again, get the 68 rebuilt and keep it as a back.

So, in short, I think I'm going with the 68HTA and just taking a bit of a risk that I don't having to rebuild knowing that worst case scenario is I will just have to send it to FP for a rebuild.

 

[JusMX141]

Appreciate the advice. Here are my thoughts right now. If I buy the 68HTA for $650 from a seller on tuners with a good reputation and it turns out to need a rebuild when I get it I can send it off to FP, pay $400-500 for a rebuild and still be ahead. (68/71HTA is $1299!).

You don't need to send it to FP for a rebuild...it uses the same parts kit as any MHI TD05H turbo. I stock OEM parts to service this, and I assume other Freelancers on the site do as well. As long as neither wheel has rubbed there's absolutely no reason the turbo would be any less-reliable after being rebuilt.

The 68HTA is definitely one potent and quick-spooling turbo for it's size; you wouldn't be disappointed.

 

[Mangold]

If I had multiple builds going, I wouldnt get anything more than adequate for the time being. Go with a new big 16g. Theres enough people making the power goals that you have, with that turbo. With your 6bolt swap, go GTX3076 or FP3076 if you want big power (like you said). I was planning to go to the GTX, but I decided to max out my current GT3076r before making the choice to upgrade. I dont know what kinds of high hp cars you have driven, but an awd DSM with 350awhp is a lot of fun. I made 333 awhp with a GT3071r (with a lot more tuning to be done). My buddy that works at my local tuner shop has made 430awhp with a 50trim with meth !!! thats ridiculous. The 50 trim flows 48lbs/min and my GT3071r flows 47lbs/min. That means that my GT3071r should have been capable of 400awhp with meth. Impressive for the size of turbo.

My point is, dont go bigger than necessary if you have a build going. I think you would enjoy the 16g.

I should mention that these numbers were made on a mustang dyno and 94 octane.

All great advice, thanks. I agree with you on the 16g but I'm worried about the 16Gs im looking at because they are MHI 14b rebuild/converted 16Gs. What do you guys thing about buying a 14b turned 16G?

This is my 3rd DSM, in between the first two and this one I owned an M3 and 350z, both tastefully modded.

I've been around some fast cars. I had good friends with supercharged Z06 vette, 2 500+ hp f bodies, a 600hp M2 supra and a whole slew of honda rice burners that are surprisingly peppy. A few quick WRXs and Evos in there too.

 

[Mangold]

You don't need to send it to FP for a rebuild...it uses the same parts kit as any MHI TD05H turbo. I stock OEM parts to service this, and I assume other Freelancers on the site do as well. As long as neither wheel has rubbed there's absolutely no reason the turbo would be any less-reliable after being rebuilt.

The 68HTA is definitely one potent and quick-spooling turbo for it's size; you wouldn't be disappointed.

Do you agree with the idea of getting the used 68 over a new 71 though and just getting it rebuilt if necessary? I'm still saving money either way and I could potentially save a lot.

 

[JusMX141]

Do you agree with the idea of getting the used 68 over a new 71 though and just getting it rebuilt if necessary? I'm still saving money either way and I could potentially save a lot.

Sure- spending basically $800 on a freshly-rebuilt 68HTA seems much wiser than $1300 for the same thing.

The 68HTA is a better option for someone seeking a stock-appearing setup where the 71HTA has a downfiring cover with a 3" inlet. It's probably too early to find a 71HTA in good used/rebuildable condition as it's a fairly new product.

 

[Mangold]

Well, while the jpipe gives it away on a 2G I like the idea of being able to play it off as a normal 16G. Of course the giant FP logo on my exhaust manifold doesn't help either.