when is a Cam timing belt too tight?

[GRsDSM]

i just finished replacing my camshaft timing belt (and all the other fun stuff). Everything checked out ok...i even atarted the engine without the acc. belts or cover just to see how it would do...it was good for the minute or so that i ran it. then checked the tension again. It seemed fine. After all was done, i took it out for a drive, the belt whines! loud, took it round the block...and it smeels like burning rubber...i think my belt is too tight...

When is a belt too tight? and i relly dont want to take everything off again if i dont have to. is there a way to determine weather or not my belt is too tight?

Thanks!!

 

[steve]

What was your final gap on the auto tensioner pin?

Steve

 

[peregrine]

it will be fine. better too tight than too loose i always say. i always get that smell/squeal after a timing belt job. its fine.

 

[GRsDSM]

HI all;

Final gap in tensioner pin is unknown...i cant tell.

The sound is coming from the cam gears so it seems! I really dont want to open everything up again! ARG!

Any more thoughts?

 

[peregrine]

give it a couple of weeks. if it still does it then worry. they are meant to stretch ever so slightly.

 

[ZachM31]

i think the auto tensioner gap is suppose to be .15-.177 inches between the tensior body and tensioner pulley arm, i always got a 5/32" bit in there (.156 i think)... i never got a squeal from mine when i started it up, just got a little bit of shavings from the belt wearing itself in.... it could be a pulley rubbing on a timing belt cover.... or else your crankshaft pulley separated? that always makes an annoying squealing sound...if you followed the vfaq, then you would have measured the gap on the auto tensioner...thats the only way you will know if the belt is properly tensioned... too little gap= too tight, too much gap= too loose... make sure you redo your timing belt install if you want to make sure the auto tensioner is in spec..

 

[GRsDSM]

Problem solved...The belt was way too tight. I reduced the tension on the tensioner pully...got the hydraulic tensioner within spec. Car runs great ow!

Thanks for everyones advice.

 

[ZachM31]

always good to hear man.. i just redid mine again today to replace my crankshaft position sensing trigger plate... i think the whole job takes me an hour or so.. 20 minutes to get the car up and pull all the acess. belts and crankshaft pulley off and get all of the covers off.. and then 2 minutes loosen the crankshaft bolt,pull the hydraulic tensioner off, compress it and lock it in place, and then start taking the belt off.... the first time i did it, i think it took me a week, doing 1 thing a day and experimenting with the tensioner pulley.. that was a killer haha... i'm good now though...i still can never save all of my coolant when pulling the waterpump off... that always makes a mess in my garage.. .. anyways, it's good to hear you fixed the problem..

 

[Hesh724]

I have the Mitsubishi Shop manual and it says 3.8-4.5mm / .15-.18 inch I used an Allen wrench to check it. So just in-case you know for a fact that it is at a different setting. this is what the Factory Repair manual calls for.

 

[rlacasse1]

That's a helluva thread revival.

 

[Hesh724]

haha oh well there is some more info...

 

[nickk90]

Just use the grenade pin method. If it moves freely its right in the middle of the spec.