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Cams jumped timing but timing belt is still tight????

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If the belt is new and you did some quick revs it can kick the belts @$$. After setting the belt, it really shouldn't be subjected to quick changes in rpms or it can skip. I had to reset my own belt after paying $1k for the initial install (when I was a noob). With a stiff belt and new tensioner you can jump a tooth pretty easily... I don't know about several teeth (needed to get valve hit).
 
did you spin the crank and cams to see if they spin freely. if something is bound up on one of them it can cause the belt to jump.
 
The reason I asked about the belt being rubbed on is I'm a dumba$$ and have redone my timing a few times since getting the car running a month ago. I screwed up and didn't follor directions so all my slack wasn't on the tensioner side so the belt was rubbing a oil pan bolt!! My cams also skipped teeth because the slack. No bent valves thank god.
 
The belt is sucked over to the engine side of the cam but its flush with the cam gear not hanging off. Doesn't appear to be running on anything. What belts are you guys running

I have an e-bay one that came with the pully kit on my winter beater that held while I drove it for a few months. The engine was shot so I really didn't care too much. But, I usually use a Mitsubishi factory belt or a Power Enterprises belt for higher HP engines.
 
You'll want to stick with an OEM belt or one from a respectable supplier. Stay away from ebay kits and the like. While the outer rim will hold up for a long while, cheaper belts will lose teeth over the normal operating life and eventually shred themselves (skipping and slipping).

The belts are supposed to be used for 60k of abuse then changed. This means that it will have to stand up to a minimum of 10,000 hours of hard wear. This is one of those items that you should not skimp on - do not try to get away with an ebay/discount model.

Quick note: Let's say you're using the vehicle as a DD, cruising at 3k rpm at 60 miles per hour for the standard life of 60k... that's 3,000*60*10,000 = Revs/Min * Min/Hour * Hour/60 miles * 60,000 Miles/Belt = 1,800,000,000 almost 2 billion revolutions ;) *Useless info*
 
Remeber, "lifetime" warranties are related to the lifetime of that product, not your lifetime. If the belts are supposed to be changed every 60k, then that's how long the warranty lasts. You'll have to check the fine print before assuming any belt will never have to be changed again.

Nobody will warrant the engine if the belt fails. There are far too many possible reasons for belt failure that would not be the fault of the belt manufacturers.
 
As standard procedure goes - to rotate the motor by with the spanner on the crank sprocket and turn the motor around six revs to ensure all the marks return to their normal positons after the sixth rev. Take out the plugs before you begin to get the compression resistance off the pistons to aid in turning the motor over easier and to ensure that you can easily feel resistance-in case your bumping a piston into a valve and just by cranking the motor around with the spanner wrench can toast a valve if things aren't timed right.

Yep, do the OEM equipment - OEM knows their stuff better than anyone else ...
 
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