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What to do for more air flow

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Honda hunter 1

10+ Year Contributor
83
0
Nov 4, 2009
magog, Vermont
Right now I`m maxing out around 45lbs/min on my setup:

1G 6 bolt stock bottom end
HX35 with BEP .55 housing
3" turbo back with cutout
1g head stock cams/intake mani
780cc injectors
walbro 255
2g maf
4" fp intake
1g bov with dodge mod
fmic
meth injection
38mm external wg

What would be the next best upgrade to get more air flow? Should I get some upgraded cams? Or should I swap out the HX35 to an HX40 on the .55 housing and keep the stock cams? So really, what is limiting me?

One issue I have is my tranny doesn't shift well over 7k, so that worriesme with upgraded cams.
 
Those cams are definitely a limiting factor, a set of 272s wouldn't be a bad choice for a street/dd car and you'll notice a huge difference once you get those dialed in.
 
Buy some adjustable cam gears along with those cams and you'll really be able to dial it in.

How much boost are you running? How much timing?

Here is a log, my boostgauge 30 psi its maxed out.
 

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FFWD Connection makes a HKS regrind of the 272 that they call the DKS2's, for the price you can't beat it either. ---> FFWD DSM Cams

You could also free up some airflow on a well built SMIM, doing a 7-bolt head swap, getting a less restrictive IC setup (2.25" to 2.5" IC piping) and converting from a Mitsu flanged hotside to a T3 exhaust manifold/turbo hotside.

That log you posted didn't work as its the wrong format, since its an ECMLink log it needs to be a .elg file.

:dsm:
 
Since you already have meth injection, get a 1gph or smaller nozzle and install it right before the turbo in the intake pipe. The you'll gain a cooler denser air charge, chemically alter the compressor map, increased boost from the denser air.

Cams will help and so will a SMIM or the new Magnus cast manifold. Going to a larger t3 manifold will up your potential as well.
 
Wow. I just don't know what to say. So much bad information in here that is going to make this guy spend money he does not need to. If you do not plan on revving really high and making a ton of power, stick with the stock intake. You can get away with a mild set of cams as well. And for the guy who mentioned needing aftermarket springs and retainers for mild cams, this is 100% not needed. We run far more aggressive cams with stock springs and retainers just fine to 8500rpm. We also take shimmed stock springs to 9000rpm on Crower 414's.

I would not take your airflow readout as the bible either. No matter how dialed in it is. Just add proven parts the make proven horsepower. Don't get caught up in airflow. People way over think this.

Good luck with your decision and outcome.

My recommendation is to open up the intake and exhuast. Preturbo intake. Well thought out and no restriction. Possibly even converting to speed density if possibly(if this is not already done). And switch to a real hotside be it a T3 or T4 setup. Make that turbo as efficient as you can. I know guys have done great things with the bolt on housing and the holsets, but going to a proper hotside is how people make nearly 600hp on a HX35.
 
Wow. I just don't know what to say. So much bad information in here that is going to make this guy spend money he does not need to. If you do not plan on revving really high and making a ton of power, stick with the stock intake. You can get away with a mild set of cams as well. And for the guy who mentioned needing aftermarket springs and retainers for mild cams, this is 100% not needed. We run far more aggressive cams with stock springs and retainers just fine to 8500rpm. We also take shimmed stock springs to 9000rpm on Crower 414's.

I would not take your airflow readout as the bible either. No matter how dialed in it is. Just add proven parts the make proven horsepower. Don't get caught up in airflow. People way over think this.

Good luck with your decision and outcome.

My recommendation is to open up the intake and exhuast. Preturbo intake. Well thought out and no restriction. Possibly even converting to speed density if possibly(if this is not already done). And switch to a real hotside be it a T3 or T4 setup. Make that turbo as efficient as you can. I know guys have done great things with the bolt on housing and the holsets, but going to a proper hotside is how people make nearly 600hp on a HX35.

Pretty much what I was gonna say. That small housing is choking the turbo, get a bigger hotside with t3 manifold and you'll flow much more
 
Your intake / exhaust manifolds as well as that BEP turbine housing are limiting you.

It wouldn't HURT to get cams, but unless you do all these other things, you won't see the real benefit.

My recommendation as far as cams go, FP4R's
 
Wow. I just don't know what to say. So much bad information in here that is going to make this guy spend money he does not need to. If you do not plan on revving really high and making a ton of power, stick with the stock intake. You can get away with a mild set of cams as well. And for the guy who mentioned needing aftermarket springs and retainers for mild cams, this is 100% not needed. We run far more aggressive cams with stock springs and retainers just fine to 8500rpm. We also take shimmed stock springs to 9000rpm on Crower 414's.

I would not take your airflow readout as the bible either. No matter how dialed in it is. Just add proven parts the make proven horsepower. Don't get caught up in airflow. People way over think this.

Good luck with your decision and outcome.

My recommendation is to open up the intake and exhuast. Preturbo intake. Well thought out and no restriction. Possibly even converting to speed density if possibly(if this is not already done). And switch to a real hotside be it a T3 or T4 setup. Make that turbo as efficient as you can. I know guys have done great things with the bolt on housing and the holsets, but going to a proper hotside is how people make nearly 600hp on a HX35.

Pretty sure this spring/ret was towards me. If you read my post it says, "...Bolt on cams without any spring/ret. needed (but are recommended.)"

That meaning it's not needed, but with any cam, upgraded springs/ret are recommended. I've been pushing my stock springs on both my cars to 8k on HKS 272's and other car has FP2's. No problem with stock springs at all.

Switch to a T3 hotside as everyone is saying and let the turbo breath.
 
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