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gstowner

15+ Year Contributor
246
1
Nov 13, 2004
Creston, Iowa
Hey guys
My car started having some issues yesterday. I dont know if its just one problem or a couple but I cant put my finger on what they would be. First, yesterday morning my car made this kinda ticking on start up when it was turning over. It hasn't done it enough for me to really get a good listen. Then i've been having crazy idle surge. One time it was at 2 grand and then it dropped to like 400. Then the coolant light, the battery light, and the E brake light all keep coming on at the same time. They just like flash on and fade away. My cd player started doing this a month or so ago then stopped until now. (dont know if this is part of the problem or another one in itself.) but like the music just stops coming out of the speakers but the cd is still playing. So if you take the face plate off and push the switch that the face plate actuates it will start again. Idk that might just be a bad cd player? Then I took it out on the high way and it had NO power. Its like it was trying to pull but something was holding it back. Then when I tried to get boostin it like jerked (like a boost leak in the ic) it did this a month ago or so, so I did a boost leak test and there was no leaks but when I put the intake pipe and plugged the MAF back in it was fine until now. I couldn't tell if it was a boost problem or the engine simply wasn't up to power. So what to check first? Does it sound like a couple of problems or a one culprit problem?

Thanks guys:dsm:
 
Just went and got the alternator tested. It was charging 14 volts. So what do you think would be good to check now. I took my seat out the other day and had to disconect the the conector under the seat. Where does that go to? It doesn't go to the ecu does it? I was thinking fuel problem there for a while ### I took it out this morning and whenever I came to a stop it would die. So I always had to keep my foot on the gas. But with all the electrical problems its having i'd say its electrical.
 
Are you recirculating your bov? Thats what I think of when having fuel problems on a mostly stock car. That and the fact that it would die at idle. What other electrical problems do you have that would make you think that that was the issue? John
 
Nonrml4 said:
Are you recirculating your bov? Thats what I think of when having fuel problems on a mostly stock car. That and the fact that it would die at idle. What other electrical problems do you have that would make you think that that was the issue? John[/QUOTE


Isn't recirculating when you take the hose that goes from the bov the the intake? If thats it then no im not recirculating. I have a greddy type s bov. I was wondering what the nipple was underneith the bov to intake hose?
As far as the electrical problem: the coolant light, the e brake light, and the battery light all flash on and flash off. Is that a code? And my cluster lights kinda twitch. Last night my headlights just all of the sudden shut off. And then the lamp lights on the mirror flicker too. Along with my cd player problem. (as I said might not be part of the problem) When im driving and it misfires its like the engine shuts down just for a second and I hear like a relay tick coming from behind the cd player. Then it backfires. Im gonna go test the coil and see what it says. Any other thoughts would be very appreciated.
 
It almost sounds like a short circuit. Did you accidentally nick any for the wires doing electrical work/mods? Or do something like hook up a ground wire to a positive wire.
If you cant find the problem I would get it diagnosed just because electrical problems are a PITA. Or always do the fun task of following the wires.
 
I did just take out my cd player. Could I have bumped a wire back there thats running to the ecu? I just tested the coil. The secondary resistance was right on. The optimal resistance is like 11 or 12 something - 15 something. Cylinder 1 and 4 is was 12.87 and 2 and 3 was 12.77. But the primary resistance was wierd I tested terminal 1 and 3 and then 2 and 3 both jumped around but then dropped back down to 0. Was I doing something wrong. Or does this mean the coil is bad?
 
I just went to start it and I think it might be throwing a code. When I turn it on or even just to acc. the seatbelt flashes 3 tims after it innitially pops up. Does anyone know what that is or can tell me where to find it. I dont think my chilton says. Does anyone have a genuine mitsubishi repair manual that can look it up?
 
The codes are displayed thought the flashing CEL(check engine light).
Chiltons usually have a few inconsistencies and errors but you can still trust it.
 
I just took out the console this morning, because I heard like a relay ticking when it would skip on the highway. Well on start up the starter relay ticks like crazy. And then the noise in the engine is coming from the starter too. (I think) I just replaced the starter a couple weeks ago though so whats up? But why would the relay tick when it's going down the road. I thought it was just used on start up.I took it out for a drive and after a little bit of skipping and jerking it took off and started pulling hard. Best its done for a while now. Also after that all my electronics started working fine again. Do fusable links "fix" fix themselves. I thoght I heard that before. Could this be the problem? Also, just curious, but what is the signs for a clogged cat? Does everyone think I should get a new starter relay. Or I was wondering how do you test relays?
 
I'm still leaning towards alternator. Check all your belts. Make sure none are old and worn, and that they don't have any grease or oil on them. Something that might cause them to slip.

When your alternator and water pump belt goes bad, then your waterpump stops which is giving you a coolant light. And obviously, the alternator not working if going to trigger your battery light, and it also sets off your e-brake light.

If none of your belts are bad, check your crank pulley and make sure it's still in good shape. My car did the same thing and the belts were fine. I check the cranked pulley, and it was seperated in two.
 
Its fixed. Simplest thing. Cant believe I didn't check it sooner. The battery wasn't putting out enough voltage under load. I checked it a couple of times but not under load. That would explain all of my problems though:D
 
The battery doesn't do anything once the car is running. the alternator powers everything.

All you did was put in a fresh battery and now it is using the juice from that, that the alternator could not supply.

Pretty soon your battery will be gone again and you will have the same problems.
 
ECLIPSE4x4 said:
The battery doesn't so anything once the car is running. the alternator powers everything.

All you did was put in a fresh battery and now it is using the juice from that, that the alternator could not supply.

Pretty soon your battery will be gone again and you will have the same problems.


I didn't put a whole new battery in. One of the connections on the positive terminal was loose. Tightened it down and it's completely fine now. And I had the alternator tested and it was fine.
 
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