What springs/retainers/keepers to run.

[Nekoni]

Not looking for anything crazy, just something that wont break. I'm keeping my stock valves, I'm just asking around because I don't wanna be heading out of town one day and break a spring, retainer, lose a keeper and drop a valve. So what has worked for you guys with stock valves?

Thanks.

 

[Boost92awd]

They only recommend them if your planning on reving over 8,000 RPM. Theres tons of people running 272's on a stock head with no problems.

 

[Freerevving]

If anything, shim some new OEM springs... you can do .030" or .060"

Mitsubishi OEM springs are suprisingly stiff compared to other make's OEM springs.
We almost have race springs straight from the factory

 

[Nekoni]

Question about shimming, when you say .030 and .060, are you talking the distance from the retainer to the rocker when the valve is closed?

 

[Freerevving]

no it's just a metal shim (washer) that's sized for valve springs... most common are .030 and .060 thickness, but you can get them in a variety of thicknesses... they increase the spring preload, more than compensating for the 5lbs difference between OEM and aftermarket.

 

[Nekoni]

Also, I popped off my valve cover and there seems to be titanium retainers already on there. Will there be extra stress running stock rpm with a 272/272 BC cam, I'm just worried a retainer may break or a keeper may pop off and drop a valve. But the car has been running these for almost 100k miles (so I'm guessing I'll be fine, I just need reassurance).

 

[spooled_u_1st]

You'll be fine. I used to run my fp2's on a stock valve train (valves, springs, retainers, keepers) to 8000 rpms with no problems.

 

[project_tsi]

Like others have stated, you should be OK with your stock setup.

However, to answer your question, Crower, BC, and Manley all come to mind for a low(er) cost setup of high quality springs and retainers. I ran the Crower setup and have no complaints.

 

[90laserRSfwd]

Like others have stated, you should be OK with your stock setup.

However, to answer your question, Crower, BC, and Manley all come to mind for a low(er) cost setup of high quality springs and retainers. I ran the Crower setup and have no complaints.

+2 I have also run the orginal crower spring / retainer setup to 9K with no issue...

 

[Nekoni]

How the hell do you like that, when I took the cams out, I look down and yeah I saw the titanium retainers right away, but beyond that were dual valve springs...

Funky surprises. I wonder what they are.

Edit : I know you can't see the springs, but eh.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[90laserRSfwd]

rev high and rev freely... jk don't do that because of my post and blow you motor. Make sure your running a BSE kit too...

 

[RipperXX]

Why would he need to make sure he is running a balance shaft elem kit? I mean so long as the BS belt is good...

 

[project_tsi]

Why would he need to make sure he is running a balance shaft elem kit? I mean so long as the BS belt is good...

The balance shafts spin at 2x the speed of the crank, meaning at 9k rpm's, the balance shafts are spinning at 18k! IMO its always a good idea to ditch the balance shafts.

And alot of times, the problem is not in the belt. Oil starvation and high rpm causes the balance shafts bearing to spin and completely block oil flow. When this happens, the bearing and shaft overheat, and usually end up locking up. Then the balance shaft belt snaps, or shreds, and gets caught up in the timing belt, and well, you know the rest. Its my honest belief that the majority of timing belt failures have something to do with the balance shafts.
And not the mention that the balance shaft belt has no means of self adjusting as time goes by and it stretches.

 

[Nekoni]

Either way, I already ordered my stuff last week, in it was a balance shaft removal kit, I'm replacing the timing belt and everything along with it (even though I only have 2k on it, I will always replace it whenever I remove it). PCV valve, new oil pump gears, so on and so forth. This will be a low-revving engine and a daily driver for the most part so the biggest cam I will go with is a BC 272/272 which are coming in with the order. I didn't have the money at the time for the adjustable cam gears (which for the price and what I've seen from the specs, I'm sure they're out of alignment), so I'll have to get those next time.

Maybe some day I will widen the main/rod bearings and build this engine for high RPM (large turbo that would be out of the stock power band) but, that would be a long ways down the road and I have no will or want to go that far with this car at the time being.