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what should I get with my dsmlink?

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I tune with a WB. It is also a good way to watch your A/F ratio and keep it safe, but everything in my log is based off what my WB is reading.

Knocking? whats the WB say the A/F ratio is.

Car breaking up at high rpm? whats the WB say?

Can I get more power and run a little leaner? WB

Shitty idle? WB

Its really the only way to watch your a/f ratio and tune for the level you want to run and keep it stable. I had a hell of a time tuning without one. How else are you going to shoot for 11:1 and keep it there? You can tune by knock tolerance and watching the O2 but thats a lot of work.

You get the idea.
 
interesting. but how do you actually tune with it? you wire the wideband up to the ecu right? Then you can get the readings on the dsmlink right? Can you change the AFR with a click of the button with the dsmlink? what is considered to be the stock AFR? What is a safe AFR?
 
pj91gsx said:
interesting. but how do you actually tune with it? you wire the wideband up to the ecu right? Then you can get the readings on the dsmlink right? Can you change the AFR with a click of the button with the dsmlink? what is considered to be the stock AFR? What is a safe AFR?
Click to expand...

The wide band reads off of the exhaust not the ecu.
 
Yes, you can wire the wideband into the ECU to log it with DSMlink. You adjust the A/F ratio by adjusting the fuel sliders. I would highly recomend logging the wideband as it will be very hard to read a gauge and remember the readings at certain RPMs. Have you read the DSMlink user manual from front to back several times yet? That should answer most of your questions.
 
map sensors are rated in absolute pressure... not gauge pressure.

Thats why 5 bar maps are really only good for 5 x 1bar - 1 atmosphere OR (5x14.503)-14.6959.

The first 'bar' isn't used for reading vacuum...

I have a gm maf and a maf translator that i had when i bought my talon.. Don't know ANYTHING about it, that stuff confuses me, thats why im using speed density with the AEM which is what im used to on other cars.. Didn't even bother trying to figure it out!!

I will have to put up all my good used DSM stuff soon, maf translator, big 16g, whole bunch of good stuff that was on the car.. Just not suitable for my 500awhp goal but still great parts.

Goodluck with your setup.
 
They don't "hold a certain horsepower." They stop reading accurately at a certain airflow(hz) level. With Dsmlink if you over run the maf you can use the fake maf function so the ecu will ignore the maf readings and go off the ve table you make for the car.
 
pj91gsx said:
how much hp can a 3'' GM MAF and MAFT hold?
Click to expand...
You need to take thing one step at a time, and not worry so much about the "limits." With that said...

3" GMAF max is 4500Hz or right around 550WHP worth of airflow. After this, it just becomes unpredictable and choppy signal.
 
pj91gsx said:
Isnt it better to get a better MAF then to use the fake MAF function? I assume a 3.5'' GM MAF is better than a 3'' right?
Click to expand...
"Better" for what? You MUST use the MAF during idle and part throttle conditions. You also use it at full throttle unless you choose to ignore it.

99% of all DSMlink users use the MAF at full boost conditions

Only around 1% of the DSMlink owners actually use the Fake MAF + Use MAP function to it's potential.

Also the 3.5" isn't "Better" than the 3" GMAF. My 3" GMAF reads higher than one of my tuning customers 3.5" GMAF did. He dynoed at 730+WHP and his GMAF flatlined at 4200Hz, while mine still reads to 4500Hz.

3" GMAF = 4500Hz
3.5" GMAF = 4200Hz
 
ok, i just read the entire thread, great info here is all i can say, however, i have a 1g MAF, and it has been hacked. i am going to purchase the link here shortly, probably after the may raffle :sneaky: if i need to buy one LOL. how would a hacked MAF effect dsmlink's performance? i will be running a 14b and getting the 1150 FIc injectors for future upgrades. just curious as to what, if any difference a hacked sensor would do, good or bad. i could always get a 2g MAF out of my junk yard (have a talon back there).

thanks for the great read!
dave
 
I would get the 2g MAS, make the plug and play pigtail (1hr max) and use it unhacked. You really don't need to hack a MAF when using DSMLink, and I wouldn't use a hacked 1G MAF because there is no reason to. There is so much control over the ECU that all of this hacking and faking airflow crap isn't needed. Just wire in the 2g MAS and get stable airflow counts up to about 400-450hp. (2800 hz) People even run 10s on it.
 
I was reading the dsmlink manual and it says that if I dont know what injector pulse is then the dsmlink is not for me. I was wondering since I read that... so my guess is that injector pulse is the rate that the injectors inject fuel. am I right?
 
Yes you are right. Injector Pulsewidth is the amount of time the injectors are open and spraying fuel in microseconds (I believe).

Well, good for you that you are reading the manual. I read it front to back twice, and I still have a lot to learn. Just search thru the DSMLink forums using keywords for topics that you don't understand fully. It will help a lot.

The best teacher is practice. Set your idle and cruise fuel trims using the instruction manual. Give yourself a while to learn. I logged every minute I was driving for quite a few weeks so I could see what the car was doing. Make small changes when you do WOT tuning and try not to change a whole bunch at once or it will be hard to know how the car responded to each individual change.

If you have patience and can set aside a weekend to get the car set up right it will pay off greatly in the long run. If you just fly by the seat of your pants and put the pedal to the floor to "see what this thing can do" you will be doing yourself a great disservice. I have spent about 2000 hours on dsmtuners and dmslink forums in the past 1 1/2 yrs just researching keywords. I can't tell you the number of problems I side-stepped by already knowing the common issues people dealt with before my car was even on the road.
 
You can learn DSMlink fairly easily, don't be intimidated by any means (except maybe in inital setup/install) But even then, take your time, read carefully and it will go just fine.
 
Im glad to say that I am in no hurry to start changing stuff until I learn, especially since I am going to have a rebuilt engine. Just wondering... how can the fuel injector pulse reading be used for tuning? I thought about this too, If I do put a big turbo on and decide to push lots of boost, would I need to tune at idle first? Would I need to tune at idle first no matter what my setup?
 
I didn't know you were going to be breaking in a motor. I would personally not run a GM MAS while breaking in a motor if you haven't calibrated one before. I would put the 2G MAS on there temporarily until I got the motor broke in. You can put the GM MAS in its place if you are running it in blow-thru so you don't have to change any of the IC piping. Just leave it unplugged and stick a 2G MAS on the turbo and use that for a couple hundred miles.

You really need to calibrate that GM MAS for it to meter correctly and I wouldn't be doing 3rd gear WOT pulls on a brand new motor trying to calibrate that GM MAS. Depending on how much it needs calibrated you might be dumping a lot of extra fuel in there. That isn't going to be good for your rings as they are trying to seat. The first 20 minutes of idling followed by the first 20 miles are CRITICAL to the health of the motor. And that is precisely the time that you GM MAS would be uncalibrated. All this is true especially if you are running DSMLink for the first time and don't have a previous tune to run from.

This is the exact situation I was in 2 months ago. Trying to break-in my new motor, using DSMLink with no prior tunes, and I had a GM MAS. I put on a 2G MAS, pulled 3% global & ~ 10% fuel from 3000 rpm up. I also pulled timing down to 16* from 4000 up and watched my wideband like a hawk. I was running about 11.5:1 AFR, which was perfect for the break-in. I used the Motoman method btw.

I had fantastic results. The car only smoked for a few minutes on first-start-up and never really smoked much during the first few miles. I ran 10-12 psi, did my breakin runs, drove 20 miles total and changed my oil. After 100 miles I had 190 compression. I am at 1200 miles and will check compression again today.

IMHO, getting that motor broke in correctly is FAR more important that anything else right now. Well at least that was my decision with all things considered.
 
I'm going to leave my stock 1g mas on the turbo for the break in. The intercooler piping I have does not have a place for a GM MAF so I will make one in the future. i have yellow top injectors and I read they are 540s on here and I also read they are 510s. How can you tell which they are? What is the Motoman method?
 
pj91gsx said:
wow I did not know that. I will remember to run mine hard after it gets warmed up. Too bad have an ACT 2600 to break in, I may throw my stock clutch back in for the motoman method
Click to expand...

Run it hard only to a certain extent.
It will be a little more complicated since you are trying to break a clutch in at the same time.

IMO Just do a lot of city driving and a lot of downshifting, allow it to build as much boost as possible without revving past 4500k for the first couple hundred miles. The boost will help it to seat the rings faster so dont be scared of building boost.

On my previous DSM i did the Motoman method and it works pretty good.
 
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