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what motor is this!?!?!

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IrshFF

Probationary Member
21
0
Aug 26, 2010
Titusville, Florida
i am currently pulling my motor apart.

the head is off and i found a number mounted on the block.

kf5m332spztvp6534

i pulled that serial number directly off the motor. i have gone thru hell trying to figure out if i have a 6 or 7 bolt.

also, i am going to put new rings and bearings in while its ripped aprt and im debating wether i should put new pistons in, or clean up the old ones.

the number on the top on the pistons are...

63dT

...and they are forged. are those decent pistons? does anyone know?

im just lookin to make a nice car with some power that is a good daily driver. nothing too crazy. 350+ horse and ill be happy on that car. im going to buy another one to work on for power.

Note: my compression is currently 125 psi with the pistons in there.

also, if that serial number doesnt help any to find out what motor it is. while i got the head off, what else could i look for to see if its a 6 or 7 bolt?"

i wasnt looking to do a lot of work but i wont a good running daily driver, while i have the head off. any other good suggestions besides pistons, rings, and bearings to do while its taken apart.

also, any good suggestions for bearings for rings would be great. im looking for decent quality stuff and a good price, im not trying to make 500 horse.


thanks everyone
 
Look at how many bolts hold on the flywheel. If you posted a picture of the motor it would help too.

he said he doesn't have the engine out so unfortunately we can't go the easy route. should be able to tell with the link provided.
 
I think that one of the easiest ways to tell, without checking the flywheel is to check the bolts on the exhaust manifold. If all of the bolts are the same size its a 1g head, if the lower outside bolts on the manifold are longer then its a 2g head. If it's a 2g head then more than likely its a 7 bolt. However, I think the only full proof way of telling would be to check the flywheel.
 
^^ Dont do that. People put the wrong size bolts in places everywhere on every application. Use the link and it will help immensely.
 
Yeah, like i said it's not full proof. With these cars it's hard to tell who's done what over the past 10-15 years. Just like the guy above said, it good be a 1g head on a 2g block. I haven't really researched the oil pan method. Looks like a good answer though.
 
i am currently pulling my motor apart. the head is off and i found a number mounted on the block.

kf5m332spztvp6534

i pulled that serial number directly off the motor. i have gone thru hell trying to figure out if i have a 6 or 7 bolt.

I guarantee you did not find that number on the engine block. That is a transmission code so you likely found it on the bellhousing, close to where the code on the block is. Look here to find the code on the block: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/385908-eclipse.html#post152377859
Your engine doesn't look exactly like that, but the encircled area is the location you will find the "code". Just a FYI tip, that code is the VIN and should match the chassis VIN (inside driver's side door jamb) unless a swap has been done.


also, i am going to put new rings and bearings in while its ripped aprt and im debating wether i should put new pistons in, or clean up the old ones.
the number on the top on the pistons are...63dT...and they are forged. are those decent pistons? does anyone know?

"63dT" is a Mitsubishi/OEM designation for an original turbo 1G 6-bolt piston. The markings "63dT F1" is found on 2G turbo pistons. All OEM DSM pistons are cast, so I'm curious to know how you determined the ones you have are forged.


also, if that serial number doesnt help any to find out what motor it is. while i got the head off, what else could i look for to see if its a 6 or 7 bolt?"

You should not have to post it to know for certain years whether it is a 6-bolt or a 7-bolt:

For a 6-bolt, the 10th digit (representing the model year) will be L or M.
For a 7-bolt, the 10th digit will be P, R, S, T, V, W, or Y.
If the 10th digit is N, unfortunately it could be either.

Since you are removing the oil pan anyways to do bearings and rings check the main girdle. If the main girdle is 1 piece, it is a 7-bolt. If it is 3 pieces, it is a 6-bolt. Further, if the hydraulic tensioner has a mounting hole on either side of the hydraulic cylinder, you know it is a 7-bolt.

Did the head bolts (OEM equipment, not studs like ARPs) require a 12-point socket to be removed? If so you have a 7-bolt. Almost certainly if they required a 10mm hex tool, it is a 6-bolt.
 
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If the front of the oil pan has the curve under the crank, it would be the 7bolt since the 6bolt, the pan's edge was straight meaning that the sprocket had to come off to replace the balance belt. That curve allowed the balance belt changeout without taking off the sprocket. The front of the pan to accomodate that curve is not straight, but angled inwards.
 
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