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What is this car worth / Is this car a good deal?

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Devilsfutbol17

15+ Year Contributor
406
48
Jul 27, 2007
Bellingham, Washington
I found a 1996 Spyder GST for $4900. It is a 5-speed, 91,000 miles on it, white with black top, 17 inch rims. There is 80% tread left on the tires but the guy has a brand new never used set of tires for the car that is included in the price. He says the top doesn't leak, but it had a rip and was repaired, but he didn't like it, so he bought a brand new oem top that isn't installed and is included with the car. He says the interior is really nice, everything inside works, but you have to help the top up a little bit. He doesn't know if the timing belt has been replaced or not. It has a 3 inch cat back exhaust, 16G turbo, apexi intake and a greddy bov. He says it runs great and has no issues. He says he just wants to get rid of it because he doesn't drive it and its taking up space in his garage, which sounds good to me because he kept it garaged at least. he also said that the paint is good on it, no clear coat coming off, no body damage or dents. I'm going to check for crankwalk be looking at the clutch pedal when I turn left. I have been talking to the guy over the phone and I'm suppose to go drive for 4 hours to go and buy it if it checks out on Thursday. Does it sound good? Should I ask him or check for other things on it?
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As long as hes got some receipts and a built bottom end to go along with all the other stuff i think its a fair deal. We all know he has way more than 9800 into the thing. For someone like me, the journey is 90% of the fun, so having a fully built car to start with would not be satisfying. But, if you want a ready to go rocket, this looks like a damn good one
 
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It is running on the stock bottom end, but has forged pistons/rods. The shifter knob would be the first thing to go, besides the asking price.
 
It is running on the stock bottom end, but has forged pistons/rods. The shifter knob would be the first thing to go, besides the asking price.

You mean its NOT running stock bottom right? When you say forged pistons/rods, im assuming aftermarket. So that would make the crank the only major bottom end OEM part, which is the way you want it. Nothing wrong with stock crank, no need for aftermarket on that one.
If he has receipts, and it does indeed have better pistons/rods, cut a deal. Anthing from 8-9k i think is a good deal on it
 
Ask for a dyno slip because there's no way that thing is safely pushing 600hp. If it is on 30psi he better have a lot more engine work done then is listed in the add or else its just a ticking time bomb . Other hen that it looks very clean but not 10k clean. More like 6k.
 
Car looks real nice, but it all comes down to what you want. When buying a car that has been modded out like that, then expect that you will have some issues with things later on if you are not sure about what parts are on the car. Custom car = custom problems. I don't know what kind of car knowledge you have but bascially if you are not sure how to work on this modded car then start smaller, like close to stock and build it yourself and enjoy the journey.

+2 on making sure it has forged internals, get some paperwork. Most people that put this kind of money into their car will have somekind of paperwork if not a full blown excell spreadsheet with everything :thumb:
 
I think 10k is on the high side personally. You know it's been pushed and personally I don't see the 600hp mark with the stock internals.

I think that's more of a 6-7k car myself, The problem is he wants a lot of what he put into back which anyone who mods a car, knows they will not get back.

Good luck with it if you purchase.
 
+1 too much money
+1 i bet all the marbles it has a stock bottom end+internals, with a built head and studs/gasket which will last a while but not for longgggg
+1 it is clean!
-kinda sketchy:confused:
-600 horse? I call bs...maybe to the crank on a dynjet or virtual dyno
-he doesnt say any fuel mods?:tease:
-missing alot of details that should be present for this car to actually run/drive/pull hard/not knock or blow up.

Just a heads up IMO.:pray:
 
Seriously man I'm from the Erie area and your right they are not the cheapest cars around here but you will be much happier with a gst/gsx. I've owened both and I loved my 420a but it docent even company to the gsx. If you need help or have any questions man feel free to pm me and I'll be more then willing to help out!
 
1995 eagle talon tsi awd 5speed

I have 1995 eagle talon awd turbo 5 speed manual it has its share of rust due to it being a Wisconsin car im the 3rd owner adult driven never modified bone stock runs awesome never left me stranded check engine light is on ### it needs a o2 sensor everything works besides ac I think it just needs to be recharged leather interior oil changed every 3000 miles with mobile full synthetic.

Now the cons are it has high miles mostly highway from what I am told and some minor strut tower rust but its not something I couldnt fix pretty easy, I have seen the pictures.

it has 230,000 miles on it I am considering the buy for a complete build I can tell its never been modified clean car fax as well, and for the price I think its pretty solid deal as well.
 
In my opinion 230,000 miles is right around the time when the original parts on the car (shocks, struts, gaskets, wiring) start to show there signs of age. Look over the parts mentioned and replace them if needed. Also note if you plan to make the purchace than keep in mind you are gonna add on some more miles to that car so selling it in the future could be pretty difficult, no matter what you have done to it... So with that said, go for it!!.. You could always look for a new rolling chasis to swap everything you have done to it later down the road for any reason.
 
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