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What else to do? [trying to get more hp]

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mattp_65

Supporting Member
528
187
Aug 16, 2004
Granite Falls, Washington
hello tuners,
I dynoed in the summer with a 230 AWHP WTF with a small 16g and properly tuned. But i want at least 300 awhp with the same turbo (maxing it out) is there a way to add more horsepower to my car without up grading the small 16g? I know here on tuners there has been people with 300 hp with this small 16g. If the only way of adding more horsepower is upgrading the turbo what is the next turbo i should get? The dyno was on pump gas at 17.5 psi. should i turn up the boost? Any suggestions. Thanks
matt
 
Yeah try a higher oct gas at a higher boost level. Hmm i wouldnt think that 230awhp would be maxing out a small 16g
 
You mention that the motor is properly tuned, but properly tuned with what? I looked through your profile and didn't see any form of fuel control. That being the case, what are you using to control your 660's (which flow more like 710's). Once we have that information, we can go further, but I promise you that a 16G will need closer to 25-26psi on a lean tune to hit 300 whp without the addition of cams.

Get back to us and we'll work on this.

Andy
 
andymoraitis said:
You mention that the motor is properly tuned, but proprly tuned with what? I looked through your profile and didn't see any form of fuel control. That being the case, what are you using to control your 660's (which flow more like 710's). Once we have that information, we can go further, but I promise you that a 16G will need closer to 25-26psi on a lean tune to hit 300 whp without the addition of cams.

Get back to us and we'll work on this.

Andy

What he said. I was going to say the exact same thing:thumb: . Cams would make your trip to 300 whp smoother and free from extra headgaskets and race gas.
 
Cams and more boost are fine, but the motor can make close to, or slightly above, 300 WHP without cams depending on the tune. Once we have information on how the motor's tuned and what's being used for fuel control, then we can move forward to more boost and power adders. Doesn't make sense to crank the boost if there are other issues holding the car back. I'd love to see a dyno plot or a log so that we can read the A/F ratios. I'd also love to know what the peak timing was on that run.

Let us know,

Andy
 
I'd say get DSMLink before cams. Since the car is a 95, it most likely has an Eprom ECU and DSMLink is about the same price as a good set of HKS cams. Then, when the car is tuned nicely, you could get cams and re-tune the car for the increased airflow at top-end.
 
Sorry for the missing information. I have a SAFC to control the fuel and mostly all leaned out because of the 660's. So is it possible to add more boost for the mods i have now? Cams is a long ways for my budget. i am just surprised that i got 230awhp and others have way more hp. I thought i have some issues with my engine but drives perfect. thanks for the replys. I have read that just adding more boost does not add more hp right? I really want to take it out to the track but i want more hp before i go and make sure everything is running ok.
matt
 
add some fuel and turn up the boost. Data log everything too! Good luck with your goal
 
Out of curiosity, since you mention California 91 octane gas: Does Shell not offer their VPower 93 octane in California? It seems they push it pretty hard here as far as marketing, so I wondered if they only offer it in certain states.
 
Matt,

What you have to remember with AFC tuning is the fact that since correction for your larger injectors is based on fooling the ECU with lower airflow readings, it will crank up the timing. Unerstand as well that this is an inverse relationship in that the more fuel you take away (larger injectors require more correction), the more you mess with the timing curves.

In order to optimize your setup, you absolutely must log the car and find the threshold of knock. Since you have 91, there's probably not much boost left in it before you hit 3-5 counts (the tuning edge) since the timing is so high, but you'll need to find where that is so that you can make maximum power on pump gas and then go for more power on higher octane.

If you have a logger, please do a solid pull from 3000-6800 RPM and post it for us to look at. If you don't have a logger, then I would invest in one right away. This will help you identify dips in timing that would indicate knock is occuring. In order to have a full picture of what's happening a log is essential.

Once that's been done and we see how much boost you can tolerate on 91, we can look at adding octane legally to your motor. There are serious octane boosters out there that will make your 91 act like 100+ (Torco Unleaded Accelerator Concentrate) and give you more breathing room to turn up the boost. Best of all, it's safe for your cat and O2's.

Let me know if that makes sense and if you have more questions,

Andy
 
MrBoxx said:
I'd say get DSMLink before cams. Since the car is a 95, it most likely has an Eprom ECU and DSMLink is about the same price as a good set of HKS cams. Then, when the car is tuned nicely, you could get cams and re-tune the car for the increased airflow at top-end.

Eric,

I agree with that in the sense that if the car already has an EPROM ECU, there are better tuning options than the AFC. However, with a $100 investment in a Keydiver chip, he could have custom mapped A/F and timing tables and really push the limits on pump gas while being able to read knock and tune it out with more octane. It's the only fuel control I have and it's helped me make great power.

This is of course moot if the car has a standard ECU.

Andy

EDIT: I just PM'ed Matt and asked him to check if he has an EPROM ECU. If so, we can kiss the AFC goodbye and do a custom chip.
 
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