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what do you need for a 16g install?

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2gEclips3

Proven Member
119
1
Aug 14, 2013
Lena, Europe
And i aint talking about tools!

To do stock to 16g conversion, you need other parts aswell to make it work smoothly, but what do you need spesificly?

im having fun watching Mighty Mods on youtube where they are installing a turbo on a 1,6 Mx5, and man, i get blown by all the work they have to do.

so what i need to know, i want to hit the 300hp mark for my stock GST, but what do i need to consider besides getting a td05 turbo, manifold and o2 housing?

:hmm:

and yes, i have read the tech article, all i want is a guide on what to get and how to install.

can anyone help me?
 
so... i can just plug and play a 16g... oem parts will tolerate the bigger turbo?

Does anyone have any experience on CXracing turbos? im not so safe using ebay on this parts, but what do you think of this:

[ame]http://www.ebay.com/itm/390166207716?_trksid=p2055120.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT[/ame]
 
I have a CxRacing 16g sitting in my garage uninstalled.. I have read both good and bad things about the actual durability of the turbo, so none of the following is rating that.... I purchased a full CxRacing 16g and install kit for like $350 IRC, 3/4 of the hardware was wrong either too big/small or wrong threads and all the lines that were included in the kit didn't even come close to fitting. I eventually needed my car because the weekend was over and needed to get to work so I threw my 14b back on. The turbo itself seems to be decent quality with no shaft play but everything that came with it was absolute JUNK. Im not saying not buy the turbo, but buy just that and then buy a high quality install kit from say ExtremePSI. The number one thing to remember when modding any vehicle is do it right the first time. If you cheap out and buy lower quality products chances are you are going to be redoing it.
 
That's usually what you get. I bought a cheap intake kit a long time ago (like an injen) and after getting it the only thing I used was the MAFT adapter piece and the K&N filter. Chucked the couplers, clamps, and honestly spent more money and time replacing the junk parts and finding stuff that would work than if I had just bought an injen intake.
I still didn't learn. Next trash on the list a catch can.
Yeah yeah ebay. Into the trash with the whole thing. Then a used RRE catch can. Now a calan. :)

Also a local kid has an ebay 16g turbo special on his 420a. Does his car run good? Yeah when the turbo is working. He's had it for maybe a year or couple months more and last I heard he's on his second $50 ebay turbo rebuild kit. Not to mention the couple months his car was broke down.
I talked with him the first time it blew. I suggested him getting a real 16g.
So my opinion without running one, Nope. I would pass.
 
allrite, its good to know. what i use to do, mostly, on ebay, is that i copy the part number from a thrustworthy site, in my opinion, one of this sites are extremepsi, -then i copy-search it on ebay.

now iv'e hard your opinion on CX racing, and its bad, not a shock really, but what kind of 16g do your cars run on, and where and wich brand did you buy?

what about this one:

Kinugawa turbocharger 3" Anti Surge 4G63T DSM Eclipse VR 4 EVO 1 3 TD05H 16g 7cm | eBay

and please reply what you would recommend :)
 
now iv'e hard your opinion on CX racing, and its bad, not a shock really, but what kind of 16g do your cars run on, and where and wich brand did you buy?
Always been MHI. There are no other "brands" worth owning.

A Taiwan-built knockoff that costs nearly the same as a Genuine Mitsubishi turbo? Unless you like the downfiring compressor cover or flashy anodized wastegate actuator, just buy the real thing and be done with it.
 
Ya ebay turbos burn oil, creep boost even if you port the wg hole (on a cxr turbo). The waste gates on the cxr 16g sits at a really bad angle that makes it impossible to open all the way, I tried to move the actuator to a different spot, bend the actuator arm, I even tried to cut off the arm on the flapper and weld it at a few different angles still with no success. Then I broke down and bought an external waste gate at the o2 housing and that solved to boost creep problem. Then after I rebuilt my cxr 2 times and it blew again and had wheel damage, I bought a mhi unit for 200 with minor shaft play and had jusmx141 rebuild it for me. I actually spent less on the mhi 16g then all the money I had invested in the ebay 16g.
 
If you are going to spend that much on an EVO III 16G I would just buy a 68HTA. It is a 16g variant made by Forced Performance that will give you so much more room to grow in the future...

Just FYI. I waited for a good looking EVO III 16g to just pop up on the classifieds here and got it for like 400 bucks...

Here is a link to the 68HTA though: FP 68HTA
 
You'll need a j-pipe long enough to reach factory intake lines. You'll have to modify your stock coolant lines using a smooth shank screwdriver down the tube to prevent kinking, carefully bend them to route to stock lines, and replace your copper crush washers. You may want to replace the oil feed line with a braided stainless line direct to oil filter housing. The stock oil feed line may be too restrictive, not sure but better safe than sorry. You can make the stock oil return pipe work but I bought a new one anyway. You may have to tap yourself a fitting for your MBC to actuate the wastegate in either the j-pipe or the compressor housing itself, other than that I think everything is bolt on. You may have to carefully bend the wastegate actuator fitting to clear intake pipe. Don't forget to replace your gaskets, its a good time and even the smallest leak will hurt performance.

Few more tips, you may want to prime the turbo with oil before your fire it up the first time. Turn the engine over without fuel 15-20 times with oil feed hooked up. Use fresh oil and filter as well. Run stock boost until you have the rest of the supporting mods. Safest way is to run full boost pressure to wastegate bypass your MBC, you should see about 9-10 psi. It still feels like way more power than the stock turbo like this. If you have a 3" turbo back exhaust, race manifold, and FIPK intake with lnlet tube, you may run into a boost creep issue, where nowhere what you do the boost rises out of control, 15-20 psi and beyond. You could trash your engine if your not careful. If this is the case you'll want to look into porting your wastegate and o2 housing, and/or wastegate flapper mod, or go external wastegate. Good luck.
 
You'll need a j-pipe long enough to reach factory intake lines. You'll have to modify your stock coolant lines using a smooth shank screwdriver down the tube to prevent kinking, carefully bend them to route to stock lines, and replace your copper crush washers. You may want to replace the oil feed line with a braided stainless line direct to oil filter housing. The stock oil feed line may be too restrictive, not sure but better safe than sorry. You can make the stock oil return pipe work but I bought a new one anyway. You may have to tap yourself a fitting for your MBC to actuate the wastegate in either the j-pipe or the compressor housing itself, other than that I think everything is bolt on. You may have to carefully bend the wastegate actuator fitting to clear intake pipe. Don't forget to replace your gaskets, its a good time and even the smallest leak will hurt performance.

Few more tips, you may want to prime the turbo with oil before your fire it up the first time. Turn the engine over without fuel 15-20 times with oil feed hooked up. Use fresh oil and filter as well. Run stock boost until you have the rest of the supporting mods. Safest way is to run full boost pressure to wastegate bypass your MBC, you should see about 9-10 psi. It still feels like way more power than the stock turbo like this. If you have a 3" turbo back exhaust, race manifold, and FIPK intake with lnlet tube, you may run into a boost creep issue, where nowhere what you do the boost rises out of control, 15-20 psi and beyond. You could trash your engine if your not careful. If this is the case you'll want to look into porting your wastegate and o2 housing, and/or wastegate flapper mod, or go external wastegate. Good luck.


thank you very much, perfect answer :thumb:
 
If you are going to spend that much on an EVO III 16G I would just buy a 68HTA. It is a 16g variant made by Forced Performance that will give you so much more room to grow in the future...
It's $1400 for a 68HTA with an internal gate on their website. Keep in mind the 68HTA isn't a miracle worker by any means...it's essentially a billet 18G by the wheel specs.

That, and the photos of the turbo on FP's website are a little misleading as it's no longer built using a MHI turbo as a base. The newest FP-built version looks a little more generic:

attachment.php


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well, my issue is that i need a turbo that looks OEM, since the new regulations in europe for cars makes any visible performance parts wich have a direct effect on the hp output of a engine, illegal. Wich makes it even more difficult for me to reach the 300hp goal.

so if i have to pay 1k$, its worth it... until i get caught LOL

hopefully i found a guy in the classifieds who can help me out, he got great feedback, so we shall see how that goes.
 
It's $1400 for a 68HTA with an internal gate on their website. Keep in mind the 68HTA isn't a miracle worker by any means...it's essentially a billet 18G by the wheel specs.

That, and the photos of the turbo on FP's website are a little misleading as it's no longer built using a MHI turbo as a base. The newest FP-built version looks a little more generic:

Interesting I didn't know that. The last 68hta I saw looked just like a 16g. Still, the link he provided was around 1000+ for that mhi Evo III 16g. I would personally rather have a 68hta if I was going to spend that much. 1400 is a little bit of a jump with the internal gate option but still...

I have not made a firm investment into a specific turbo though so I just got a Evo III 16g from the classifieds like I said for way cheaper than that eBay seller. Jus you actually helped me pick it out if you remember haha.

Options are never a bad thing is what I am getting at I guess.
 
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