What do I need for clutch upgrade?

[Jiggalude]

Alright, I'm pretty good with engine stuff, and I can hold my own with electrical. But when it comes to clutches and things like that I have no idea what I'm looking at. If I want to upgrade my drive train do I need a clutch and flywheel or are they one in the same? I know that's a stupid question but like I said I really have no idea about it.

 

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

They part of what drives your car but by no means the same thing... You want a lightened flywheel (fidanza) and a stronger clutch (ACT, ClutchMasters,Excedy)

 

[Silvertune]

Flywheel mounts to the end of the crank and the pressure plate mounts to the flywheel. The clutch disc is inbetween and is connected onto the transmission input shaft. When you push in the clutch a fork in the transmission separates the pressure plate and flywheel so you can shift, when you let off the pedal the plates clamp back down on the clutch disc thus putting your power into the tranny again.

When you upgrade the clutch you should get the pressure plate, clutch disc and a new throw out bearing. Clutches typically come in a kit with all of the above and flywheel's are generally sold separately unless you find a bulk deal. You can upgrade just the clutch, but you would need to get your current flywheel resurfaced for the new clutch disc. Usually people like to get a lightweight flywheel (less rotational inertia etc etc) with the clutch upgrade so you free up a few horses and free up the revving as well as being able to hold more torque.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Well what most people do are get a lighten flywheel. It'll help your rpm's climb faster. Also when you let your feet of the gas your rpm's also drop faster to. Will, clutch is just a clutch. You want one that will hold your hp goals. If you get one to weak it'll start to slip and your rpm's will be going nowhere. If you get one to hard, there goes your tranny.
If I'm wrong on my info please feel free to back it up peeps.

 

[Jiggalude]

Alright thanks alot guys!

 

[habitatguy187]

Just buy an XTD Stage 4 kit off ebay and go to your local Mitsu dealer and buy an OEM throwout bearing. ~$200 and a setup that will take lots of abuse, hold a lot of power, and not be terribly hard to drive.

 

[project98dsm]

+1 on the XTD Stage 4 from eBay. I've been reading a lot on them and it's looking like it's exactly what I need. I bought the Jack's 2.3 tranny that he had on the vender announcement a few weeks back and he recommends a solid disk...so we'll see. I went with an ACT flywheel over the Fidanza, I didn't want to go to light because I still wanted SOME inertia left in the flywheel, it's lighter than stock, but not TOO light.

 

[Jiggalude]

Alright, so I can get this clutch kit, and buy a fidanza flywheel, and then get a throwout bearing from the dealer. What is the average cost for someone to install this setup?

Why not use the throwout bearing that comes with the kit?

 

[project98dsm]

Alright, so I can get this clutch kit, and buy a fidanza flywheel, and then get a throwout bearing from the dealer. What is the average cost for someone to install this setup?

Why not use the throwout bearing that comes with the kit?

OEM TOBs are proven for any clutch setup. And just to throw my 2 cents out there, don't get a Fidanza just because it's the lightest, to me that's like venting a bov without blow-through or speed density just to hear a cool "pftcheeeeeeew" sound. Don't get me wrong, do what you want but be smart about your intentions. I had a fidanza but I'm really glad I switched. What are your plans with the car?

 

[Jiggalude]

I don't drive it everyday. I've got a bunch of stuff I'm putting on this winter including a big 16g turbo. I just want a quick weekend car. The car is pretty high miles, but everything's been changed except for the clutch. I don't need a super light weight flywheel I was just throwing that out there. What do you suggest other than the fidanza?

 

[project98dsm]

Honestly, the only downside I see other than losing some needed inertia (though I really don't think it's THAT much of an impairment) would be having to rev a little higher from a dead stop. I eventually got used to bumping my throttle and doing some throttle/clutch feathering to take off from a standstill. I tried giving it as much throttle as I did with my stock flywheel and it would just stall out on me. I kinda frown on kids who roll around in a parking lot reving there engines up just to say (oh listen to my exhaust YAY MEEEE) while they're trying to park their car. Then I realized I was kinda doing it myself . But on a serious note, lighter isn't ALWAYS better. But look around on other threads because there's a shyt-ton of discussions on this subject. I have an ACT flywheel and it's doesn't really seem to rev any quicker than my Fidanza, but taking off is a little more friendly. And most people would say that it's because of my clutch having harsher engagement, but keep in mind that at the time my engine was put in, it had stock clutch/pp for a few months

 

[66ss]

the xtd's are a good deal

 

[T-mun]

Some guys likes it light, so that the RPM climbs faster.. but u are trading off some of the top end speed.. Some inertia actually helps with cruising. I would choose a compromise between both.

 

[project98dsm]

Rpms climbing quicker was hardly noticeable with my car, especially with 9.0:1 compression. I seriously doubt a few pounds of weight will be a deal breaker performance wise, but I chose something with a little more weight than the fidanza. Outside of personal preference, I chose the act over the fidanza for functionality. But I almost went with a resurfaced and lightened RRE flywheel. Those suckers are quite a bit lighter than stock but still have plenty of punch for inertia.

 

[id_redneck]

Another viable and cheaper option I have employed on other cars in the past is to have a reputable local machine shop remove some of the metal from the back side thus lightning the flywheel for almost free