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Well guess i'm getting boosted

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I've got a new timing belt and new valve seals new gaskets. we well as pistons and what not.
Should be a pretty fresh motor when i finish.
Hey guys should i put in a more powerful oil pump or just get another oem one to drop in? This one has 160K miles on it figured i'll replace it before i start pushing my motor.

Thanks
 
Definitely replace the oil pump. Often people just go with the Melling OEM replacement. However Melling does have a high volume pump that is only about $30 more, so I would recommend going that route.
 
Just got a 500$ bonus for saving the company lots of money when the down stairs office flooded i pumped it out and got all the computers put on top of the desk.
And i'm the computer guy on building maintiance dude! haha
BUt that 500 just made my turbo project take a HUGE jump. :)
 
BlackRaptor said:
Just got a 500$ bonus for saving the company lots of money when the down stairs office flooded i pumped it out and got all the computers put on top of the desk.
And i'm the computer guy on building maintiance dude! haha
BUt that 500 just made my turbo project take a HUGE jump. :)

Awesome, I'll be expecting a 12pack in the mail with your new bonus. LOL
 
This is kinda pointless rgiht now because this will be step three but if i remove my internal wastegate and put an on external one. does anyone know if thie super 16G is able to boost to 15 PSI?

My goal is to stay with 8psi but who knows what will happen once i feel boost haha.
 
Sure it will, but the question you should be asking is if it will remain to be efficient up to that boost.
 
BlackRaptor said:
This is kinda pointless rgiht now because this will be step three but if i remove my internal wastegate and put an on external one. does anyone know if thie super 16G is able to boost to 15 PSI?

My goal is to stay with 8psi but who knows what will happen once i feel boost haha.

XMasta19 said:
Sure it will, but the question you should be asking is if it will remain to be efficient up to that boost.

From my experience, that 16G will boost up to 15psi good on a 4G63 with stock Injectors....but after 15, major fuel cut off issues. HAHN just has it set to stock 8psi for reliability issues. Thats it. 8psi on Stock 420A Fuel. Upgrade the fuel system and you can up the boost. I dont know how high the turbo could boost up to, but in order for you to obtain full boost, you need a fuel setup to match it.

Just being cheap, I have a Toyota Supra Twin Turbo Fuel Pump and the stock Supra TT 550CC Injectors. Got this setup for 75 bucks! :dsm: :beatentodeath: :dsm:

the Hahn setup is pretty good... pricey but good. I'm building my own turbo setup similar to thiers, and my friend is buying a Hahn kit... so we'll have numbers to show in a few months. Congrats on going turbo!
 
How much will my little turbo effect my milleage?
I know i'll have to run 92 but will ai still be able to get 26ish highway and 22's in town?

Last coupld weeks i've been putting 125 bucks a week into fuel on my truck.
It's pretty much killing me. Dang V8's
 
Depends on how much of the gas pedal your foot uses. If you stay out of boost for a whole tank it will be as if you have no turbo basically. Once you get in boost, the fuel pressure rises and more is used. The difference when boosting a good amount is pretty substantial.
 
Thats kinda what i figured.
so when i boost milleage is bad but if i drive it light footed i should still get goo milleage.

Good that also means long trips on the freeway should still get good millage because i won't be boosting.
 
BlackRaptor said:
Thats kinda what i figured.
so when i boost milleage is bad but if i drive it light footed i should still get goo milleage.

Good that also means long trips on the freeway should still get good millage because i won't be boosting.

Correct.
 
Thanks for the link :)

Well the motor is 99% pulled. Tonight i'll lift it the rest of the way out of the engine bay all i can say is dang i miss working on big V8 engines in older trucks. ha ha.
There is no room to work in this car.
oh well as of tonight the motor will be out and i can start taking it apart.
 
The engine is out!
Man that is tight. Do most of you guys pull the motor and tranny as one piece?
I didn't need the tranny out but looking back it almost looked like it would have been less work.
Are there any turbo prep thing to the car it's senf *not the engine* that i should do while the engine is out of the car and theres lots of room in the bay? I can't think of anything but i figured i would ask.

Also i decided to go with low comp pistons because of how much of a pain this motor pull was, i don't want to remove the engine for a long time.

But now it's buggig me. What is stock Compression on this car? 10.1?
I found out i have to replace the main pully because for some reason it was all chipped up. Should i just go with OEM again or get an underdrive pully long as i'm replacing it?
 
Our stock compression ratio is 9.6:1 A good number to go with is usually from like 8.8 to 8.6:1 when getting forged internals. Of course you want to replace that stock beat up heavy ass crank pulley...get the AF/X udp :thumb:
 
Hey guys can you help me pick out pistons.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JE-N...33623QQitemZ8072876686QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Or

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wise...33623QQitemZ8074225641QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

I have used Wiseco pistons in my Motocross bikes for years but i know nothing about there car pistons.

ordering these this weekend.

one other question.

I got an intercooler with 2.5 inch piping I'll be able to boost 12 PSI down the road with this size piping right?
I know i was only planning on 8psi but if the motor is forged i may as well push it a little higher someday. I just have a feeling once i boost i'll want more. ha ha
 
JE or Wiseco; both are fine pistons that'll handle most anything you throw at them.

2.5" piping will handle 12psi fine - most of us won't get pipes larger than 2.5" anyway, even while boosting up to 20psi. I've only see one car with 3" IC pipes. It was a Supra with a massive turbo, and I bet even then, those pipes were a little overkill.
 
Motor is totally broke down pistons on floor.
Going to get it hoaned *spelling* this week.
Then the easy part is done and it's time to put it back together and make it run.
Manifold and Intercool kit where both shipped today. lots of parts in the mail right now.
I named this project, Project Money Pit haha.
 
I'm thinkin it's a good idea to replace the oil and water pumps long as i'm this deep into the engine. the motor had 155K miles on it. You guys agree it's a good idea to replace these pumps?
If yes, can i get away with a OEM oil pump or do i need a higher flow one because it's having to pump oil through the turbo?
Thanks again for all your help this project wouldnt be happening without all your guys help.
 
BlackRaptor said:
I'm thinkin it's a good idea to replace the oil and water pumps long as i'm this deep into the engine. the motor had 155K miles on it. You guys agree it's a good idea to replace these pumps?
If yes, can i get away with a OEM oil pump or do i need a higher flow one because it's having to pump oil through the turbo?
Thanks again for all your help this project wouldnt be happening without all your guys help.

Yes, definately replace them both.
you can get a higher flow oil pump for like 30 dollars more mine as well.
 
While you're at it, if you have the money, even if you don't wait alittle longer to get the money, replace your timing belt, tensioner, and idler pulley as well as the water and oil pump. You've got all of that exposed and now would be the opportune time to knock it out, plus if you don't you might end up pulling that motor back out. Unless it was done very recently.

Go ahead and replace the pumps, go with the high volume Melling Oil Pump.
 
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