Weirdest idle issue ever.

[ssjkouru]

So here's the deal. When I start my gs-t I get a very weird result. The car revs uncontrollably, as in to redline without letting off at all. Now the weird thing is, is that if I remove the throttle body elbow the car doesn't rev nearly as high, but the second I begin to attach the throttle body elbow (or in my case move the elbow closer to the actual throttle body) the revs begin to climb...???????????
There is a few other things I should note you before you make assumptions tho. I do have the egr valve off but the holes are plugged. I checked and my rear O2 sensor doesn't have continuity between terminals 3&4 (The car still goes to redline even if its unplugged,fyi) I recently (yesterday) replaced my Idle Speed Controller so that's not the problem, The Throttle Position sensor CONNECTOR (not the actual device that screws into the throttle body) has been replaced and works fine. If I recall my TPS also has shown correct resistance/voltage on my volt meter but I can double check again later. My accelerator cable isn't too tight nor too loose. MAF has been replaced (twice in case of faultiness) and from what I can read my Manifold diff pressure (that little connector that sits on the top of the manifold) just measures effectiveness of the EGR. Oh and BISS screw isn't hardly in the throttle anyways so can't be that.
And to put a finale on the show my car runs very rich. But here's what I was thinking, how can the car increase revs without more air? Does the turbo actually supply more air than running it straight from the throttle body? More importantly are the two holes at the bottom of the throttle body for idle?
To help explain and speed up the process here's a short video of what I mean exactly. Its kinda hard to hear the car really rev up so listen closely.
DSM RPM Troubleshoot - YouTube
If you tell me to do a boost leak test i'm gonna snap.

 

[delta448]

Screw the BISS back in.
Tuning this car with an SAFC as it says in your profile? Unhook the battery lately?
What injectors?

You're getting excess fuel, compounded by the MAS reporting increased airflow as you put the elbow back on.

 

[ssjkouru]

Screw the BISS back in.
Tuning this car with an SAFC as it says in your profile? Unhook the battery lately?
What injectors?

You're getting excess fuel, compounded by the MAS reporting increased airflow as you put the elbow back on.

Sorry I should update my profile, No longer have the SAFC hooked up, previous owner had it in. I unhooked the battery today, that crossed my mind that maybe my ECU still had the old ISC in its data. Stock injectors.

and I see how it could be the MAS reporting more air moving over it(or threw it, however that works) as the elbow is reattached. But how is mine shot already? Its got less than 500 miles on it. There is a wire that is a tad bit cut, I suppose I could solder that to perfection.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Would say do the boost leak test as a joke, but like I am with my car, jokes are th last thing you'd want to hear. Have you checked the FIAV yet or even the throttle body shaft seals? That's all I can think of other than your actual TPS since yousaid you hadn't replaced it yet.

 

[bryanwheat]

You either have a big vacuum leak between the throttle body and head or as stated earlier your biss screw is backed out out a lot. When you pull the tb elbow away the a/f ratio is changing and that is why the car idles down. Your method of diagnosing is awful. You need to bolt it back together, tighten the biss down all the way than out a turn and a half and do a boost leak test.

 

[wrencher]

What the heck kind of wiring repair is that to the TPS wiring?
Then you say there's wiring issues @ the MAF too?
Fix all that properly & agree with Bryan above look for leaks.

 

[ssjkouru]

You either have a big vacuum leak between the throttle body and head or as stated earlier your biss screw is backed out out a lot. When you pull the tb elbow away the a/f ratio is changing and that is why the car idles down. Your method of diagnosing is awful. You need to bolt it back together, tighten the biss down all the way than out a turn and a half and do a boost leak test.

Damn harsh, on my diagnosing method, But I respect your opinion and I agree with it possibly being a leak between the throttle and head. Another question is my rear O2 being bad going to affect me running rich? I heard its only to check efficiency of the cat but i'm not positive.