Water Temp

[Yamahaulin]

How hot does your dsm run? I have a big aluminum radiator and now that it's hot outside it runs around 210, is this normal or should i be concerned. I have a punishment racing t3 header and it's really close to the radiator I think it's adding some heat in it. I have 2 fans for cooling thinking of trying to add a 3rd. In winter it runs 180 never more. Just need some info.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Man, that does seem a little too high for my liking. Maybe that header is throwing off too much heat. Ever thought of wrapping the header? That might be something to think about. Maybe try another thermostat too.

 

[TuRBoTaLooN]

Yea you have a few options to run around the 200-205 mark which should be fine. You can...

1) Get a cooler thermostat. Stock is 180 I think, maybe a 160 or so. I believe Mishimoto makes one for our cars
2) Add some distilled water or water wetter to the cooling system
3) Make sure there is no air in your system and do a pressure test of the system
4) If you have DSMLink, you can have the fans turn on earlier and stay on longer
5) Header wrap
6) Make some ducting to force incoming air towards your radiator

 

[gofer]

180* puts your ECU in learn mode, 210* will kick on your radiator fan, and 206* will pull 1* of timing so you should be trying to keep it below 206*. Since your preparing for the warm summer months it wouldn't hurt to do a radiator flush either. You can also buy a 170* t-stat at any parts store, might as well since you've already drained your coolant. Waterwetter seems to work wonders but unless you dump a few bottles of it in your just wasting your cash.
Personally I run a 180* t-stat, Mishimoto radiator, and one SPAL push fan (sits in front of the radiator) with a 50/50 antifreeze/water mix and log 203* solid for coolant temps in dsmlink. Granted, thats with my fan on 100% of the time but I have a pretty big FMIC covering the radiator too.

 

[4g63t]

I use a jumper to have fans on all the time and it helps out alot. Just jump across the relay.

 

[TuRBoTaLooN]

Yea, but if your fans are on 100% of the time, it's kind of like removing the thermostat. It will take longer for the car to get to operating temp.

 

[gofer]

Yea, but if your fans are on 100% of the time, it's kind of like removing the thermostat. It will take longer for the car to get to operating temp.

To keep the car at 203* (+/- 3*) is a good payoff for alittle bit longer warm up times in the morning when its cool out. Besides, getting it up to op temp shouldn't take too long if its damn near 100* outside since summer is just around the corner.

 

[TuRBoTaLooN]

I agree, but I still think that any/all of my other suggestions should be tried first before resorting to leaving the fan on 100% of the time. It sucks a lot of juice from the battery as well.

 

[gofer]

Agreed.

 

[CrankWalkerX99]

Yea you have a few options to run around the 200-205 mark which should be fine. You can...

1) Get a cooler thermostat. Stock is 180 I think, maybe a 160 or so. I believe Mishimoto makes one for our cars
2) Add some distilled water or water wetter to the cooling system
3) Make sure there is no air in your system and do a pressure test of the system
4) If you have DSMLink, you can have the fans turn on earlier and stay on longer
5) Header wrap
6) Make some ducting to force incoming air towards your radiator

I like everything this guy said.

 

[Yamahaulin]

I have a new 180 thermostat in there. My fans run all the time. Might do a flush and try some distilled water. The wierd thing is the stock temp gauge never moves once my autometer reaches 180 the stocker is directly in the middle and it never moves. I guess the stock ones are very inaccurate. I might try header wrap as a last option. The car in the morning reaches 180 in under 5 minutes so don't have to worry about long warm up times.

 

[TuRBoTaLooN]

Where do you have your coolant temp sensor for the autometer gauge?

 

[gofer]

The wierd thing is the stock temp gauge never moves once my autometer reaches 180 the stocker is directly in the middle and it never moves. I guess the stock ones are very inaccurate.

The stock coolant gauge will hit center at 180* and won't budge until coolant temps rise above 224*, so yes the stock coolant gauge doesn't really let you know your over heating until its too late.
If flushing doesn't do the trick you can also drill two small holes in the outer ring in your t-stat, this will keep your temps down ALL the time its just a PITA.