2G Water feed to eBay 16g turbo

[Ceezdsm99]

So I’m swapping the stock t-25 turbo to a big 16 g .. im having trouble mounting the stock water lines onto it , on the turbo there is 2 plugs for a fitting on opposite sides of the turbo , im not sure what they are , or if I can use either one .. this is my first time doing this . Thanks in advance

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[chrysler kid]

You dont need to port the ebay turbo, it will be fine at stock boost levels. Ive ran two or three of them now with no problems with boost creep.

You dont have to run coolant through it, but I would recommend it. I had one with some really bad banjo bolts that were actually too long to press against the cartridge to seal the crush washers and ran it without coolant, it was fine. It did eventually blow out the cheap gasket and melt the ac condenser fan

That being said the manifold temps on these cars are already pretty high, I really recommend running coolant through it. I can recall one time the hood hinge burning my hand when I went to open the hood and the hood prop nearly sizzling my skin.

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[Ceezdsm99]

You dont need to port the ebay turbo, it will be fine at stock boost levels. Ive ran two or three of them now with no problems with boost creep.

You dont have to run coolant through it, but I would recommend it. I had one with some really bad banjo bolts that were actually too long to press against the cartridge to seal the crush washers and ran it without coolant, it was fine. It did eventually blow out the cheap gasket and melt the ac condenser fan

That being said the manifold temps on these cars are already pretty high, I really recommend running coolant through it. I can recall one time the hood hinge burning my hand when I went to open the hood and the hood prop nearly sizzling my skin.

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Hey Chrysler kid , and yeah i Ended up running the coolant lines , dsms run very very hot. I don’t think depleting it of coolant is a good idea.

You dont need to port the ebay turbo, it will be fine at stock boost levels. Ive ran two or three of them now with no problems with boost creep.

You dont have to run coolant through it, but I would recommend it. I had one with some really bad banjo bolts that were actually too long to press against the cartridge to seal the crush washers and ran it without coolant, it was fine. It did eventually blow out the cheap gasket and melt the ac condenser fan

That being said the manifold temps on these cars are already pretty high, I really recommend running coolant through it. I can recall one time the hood hinge burning my hand when I went to open the hood and the hood prop nearly sizzling my skin.

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Here is how it sits in the car now

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[Ceezdsm99]

You dont need to port the ebay turbo, it will be fine at stock boost levels. Ive ran two or three of them now with no problems with boost creep.

You dont have to run coolant through it, but I would recommend it. I had one with some really bad banjo bolts that were actually too long to press against the cartridge to seal the crush washers and ran it without coolant, it was fine. It did eventually blow out the cheap gasket and melt the ac condenser fan

That being said the manifold temps on these cars are already pretty high, I really recommend running coolant through it. I can recall one time the hood hinge burning my hand when I went to open the hood and the hood prop nearly sizzling my skin.

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Hey Chrysler kid so I primed the turbo after installing .. immediately starting getting a bunch of smoke out of the manifold .. not sure if it’s maybe the vband or the gasket ? What’s your take on this thanks
-saul

 

[chrysler kid]

Does the new oil feed line have a restrictor in it? The stock oil feed line had a restrictor that screwed into the oil filter housing that the oil line screwed into. The listing for the oil supply line should say restrictor included. You may be over oiling the turbo with too much oil pressure, but that would be smoke out of the tail pipe

Also they will smoke for a little bit in the engine bay to burn off oil like greasy finger prints and assembly oil externally in the engine bay. Should go away after 20-30 minutes

 

[Ceezdsm99]

Does the new oil feed line have a restrictor in it? The stock oil feed line had a restrictor that screwed into the oil filter housing that the oil line screwed into. The listing for the oil supply line should say restrictor included. You may be over oiling the turbo with too much oil pressure, but that would be smoke out of the tail pipe

Also they will smoke for a little bit in the engine bay to burn off oil like greasy finger prints and assembly oil externally in the engine bay. Should go away after 20-30 minutes

The oil line from the filter?i took off the whole fitting it was like a size 19 and I was able to put the adapter from the kit there , and screw it from there onto the ss oil line to the turbo , the line to the turbo does have a restricter , and it’s not smoking from the tail pipe . It’s smoking from the manifold yeah youre Right it could be the pb blaster I used and grease . Haven’t ran it for 30 minutes tho seems like a long time . Had it idling for 5 minutes and it just seems like their is too smoke coming from around it for it to be oil and grease /pb burning off ..

Does the new oil feed line have a restrictor in it? The stock oil feed line had a restrictor that screwed into the oil filter housing that the oil line screwed into. The listing for the oil supply line should say restrictor included. You may be over oiling the turbo with too much oil pressure, but that would be smoke out of the tail pipe

Also they will smoke for a little bit in the engine bay to burn off oil like greasy finger prints and assembly oil externally in the engine bay. Should go away after 20-30 minutes

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Here is a video of how it looks . It also is idling too low , shutting off at times if gas isn’t stepped on ..

 

[chrysler kid]

In one of your pictures you posted earlier the mass air flow sensor is unplugged, double check to make sure its plugged back in

Yeah that smoke is normal, its burning off that pb blaster and the grease and dirt from your hands on the manifold and turbo.

 

[Ceezdsm99]

In one of your pictures you posted earlier the mass air flow sensor is unplugged, double check to make sure its plugged back in

Yeah that smoke is normal, its burning off that pb blaster and the grease and dirt from your hands on the manifold and turbo.

i see , we’ll you mean where the intake is ? It is connected to the air filter

 

[chrysler kid]

i see , we’ll you mean where the intake is ? It is connected to the air filter

No, in one of your pictures the electrical connector isnt plugged into the mass air flow sensor

 

[Ceezdsm99]

No, in one of your pictures the electrical connector isnt plugged into the mass air flow sensor

I see I think it is connected by I will double check , why do you think it’s idling low and turning off I’m pretty sure everything is connected right , could it be vband to clock the turbo that is loose ? I’ve had this issue before and resetting the ecu fixed that . Maybe I should drive it a bit and see how it reacts

 

[chrysler kid]

I see I think it is connected by I will double check , why do you think it’s idling low and turning off I’m pretty sure everything is connected right , could it be vband to clock the turbo that is loose ? I’ve had this issue before and resetting the ecu fixed that . Maybe I should drive it a bit and see how it reacts

Looks unplugged to me, but this is a picture you posted of the engine bay during install

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[Ceezdsm99]

Looks unplugged to me, but this is a picture you posted of the engine bay during install

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I see , okay so I’m the video of the smoke if you look where the air filter is for a second you can kinda see where it’s connected , you think maybe where the nipple for the little hoses for the wastegate and intake are maybe I misplaced them ? I put the little hose for the intake on top and the wastegate on bottom

Looks unplugged to me, but this is a picture you posted of the engine bay during install

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I’m so lost . My friends helping me and I’m using his garage . he’s getting fed up with the dsm . I don’t blame him tho might have to take it to a mechanic shop since no one around me seems to know how to work on this platform . There goes all my life savings

 

[pauleyman]

I’m so lost . My friends helping me and I’m using his garage . he’s getting fed up with the dsm . I don’t blame him tho might have to take it to a mechanic shop since no one around me seems to know how to work on this platform . There goes all my life savings

Back up and tell us what's going on now.

 

[Ceezdsm99]

Back up and tell us what's going on now.

Started her up , and it started smoking from the manifold not sure it it’s pb blaster and oil or if it’s and exhaust leaks it’s kinda hard to tell. It idles really low aswell . But I think I just need to reset the ecu . But it’s like it’s smoking too much

 

[pauleyman]

if it's under 10 min it's grease and oil. Is this your only problem? If it's fully warmed up it should idle solid. If it doesn't diagnose the idle circuit.

You're also missing the factory washers under the turbo bolts. Don't expect those to stay tight with those washes missing. They are NOT just plain washers. They are belleville springs. Buy stock ones, Use two per bolt. They are "cupped". Thats what a belleville spring is. Face the cup toward each other and install the bolts. High temp antiseize is a good idea. NOT regular antiseize. High temp nickel based.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Let the car get warm n burn all that lube off.

Then we need to talk about this install. It's not hard to swap a turbo, minus not having everything u need for the coolant lines (for the time being).

 

[Ceezdsm99]

if it's under 10 min it's grease and oil. Is this your only problem? If it's fully warmed up it should idle solid. If it doesn't diagnose the idle circuit.

You're also missing the factory washers under the turbo bolts. Don't expect those to stay tight with those washes missing. They are NOT just plain washers. They are belleville springs. Buy stock ones, Use two per bolt. They are "cupped". Thats what a belleville spring is. Face the cup toward each other and install the bolts. High temp antiseize is a good idea. NOT regular antiseize. High temp nickel based.

Okay I will check it out when I can get to the garage ! Thanks Paul
-saul

Let the car get warm n burn all that lube off.

Then we need to talk about this install. It's not hard to swap a turbo, minus not having everything u need for the coolant lines (for the time being).

Yeah i Got the coolant lines figured out and the oil , just need to figure out why it’s smoking , it looks to be coming from the manifold gasket , I should’ve not removed that lower heat shield because in order to remove it you have to take out the 02sensor

Yeah i Got the coolant lines figured out and the oil , just need to figure out why it’s smoking , it looks to be coming from the manifold gasket , I should’ve not removed that lower heat shield because in order to remove it you have to take out the 02sensor

I mean to say * I should’ve left it off**

 

[99dsmer4g63]

A lot of manufacturers apply oil to metal parts to keep them from rusting while they wait for sometime to buy them. Who knows how long it actually takes to be made till you install them. Plus working on them with oily hands and what not this seems to be normal.

Also do not post on here next saying something smells funny because new gaskets have a weird smell the first heat cycle or two. A funny smell is normal a time or two with new gaskets.

-Daniel

 

[Ceezdsm99]

A lot of manufacturers apply oil to metal parts to keep them from rusting while they wait for sometime to buy them. Who knows how long it actually takes to be made till you install them. Plus working on them with oily hands and what not this seems to be normal.

Also do not post on here next saying something smells funny because new gaskets have a weird smell the first heat cycle or two. A funny smell is normal a time or two with new gaskets.

-Daniel

I see , we’ll we actually haven’t idling the car for more than 10 minutes because of the bad idle , and it’s actually stalling out so I have to apply constant gas . Guess I’ll just take it for a spin without pushing it and see how it reacts . Before this happened I accidentally shifted from 4 to 3rd gear , engine redlined and after that it’s like I hit a fuel cut or something , then the gst was limping in a way hesistating to go . Waited a couple days . Drove it cold and it seems almost normal had a mechanic I know take a look at it and he said it’s probably the turbo , since there are no Cels or misfires , and the trans seemed fine . So I moved on to the turbo . Buddy of mine says it could’ve damaged the engine but I don’t think so as it had good oil in it and still ran and idled good … thanks Daniel
-Saul

 

[Ceezdsm99]

A lot of manufacturers apply oil to metal parts to keep them from rusting while they wait for sometime to buy them. Who knows how long it actually takes to be made till you install them. Plus working on them with oily hands and what not this seems to be normal.

Also do not post on here next saying something smells funny because new gaskets have a weird smell the first heat cycle or two. A funny smell is normal a time or two with new gaskets.

-Daniel

Hey thanks for your advice Daniel , it turned out to be a couple things that were causing the bogging ,one of the ignition coils were coroded , put in new coils packs wires and plugs , also a new maf sensor and now she’s running great