Vibration from rear at higher speeds AWD

[Nimz]

I have a 2ga 95 Eagle Talon TSi just recently purchased this build, it's all stock under 100k and hardly and rust. Planning to go stage 2 this year, but I need to make it safe and get my maintenance over with so help me out here.

When I bought the car I noticed a slight vibration at higher speeds and I questioned the guy about it and he told me that the wheel is most likely bent. He said he went to have the wheels balanced and the passenger rear wheel would not balance. (This is where the vibration is coming from) I bought new wheels because they were god awful anyway. I ordered them mounted with tires online and had them shipped. There wasn't any distinction of they were to be for front or rear or left or right, I don't know if that's a thing or what. I threw them on myself, didn't get any alignment or balancing done and still noticed the problem.

At this time I wanted to investigate further into the rear suspension. I went up to the car pushed up and down and heard a clunk, like a hammer hitting metal. I could only replicate this noise after driving around for about 30 minutes. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all. I grabbed the wheel while it wasn't even jacked up and just checked for play and there was a lot which was alarming since it was still on ground. It would slightly pull in and out and make the clunking noise.

After discovering that I thought I confirmed that it was a bad hub bearing so I ordered a new hub assembly from mitsu. I threw that on and took it for a drive and it's still happening at 70mph. I also notice a very slight pull to the right sometimes which I think was there when I bought it.

What could it be? Do I need to get these new wheels and and tires balanced? Should I go for an alignment? I'm aware of some of the possibilities, but you see I bought wheels and tires new first thing when I got the car and that was out of pocket, then I find that to not be the problem and put down $200 for the assembly to get the OEM and now I'm pretty boned. I want to know what I should go about checking and replacing first. Thanks

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Verify the condition of the rear ball joints. Also check for play in the rear control arm bushings. If all check out, go in for an alignment. Being that it does not vibrate until then, it leads me to believe it may be an alignment/balance issue.

There could be other causes as well. It could also be as simple as part of the exhaust or the like is too close the the rear diff causing vibration.

 

[Nimz]

Verify the condition of the rear ball joints. Also check for play in the rear control arm bushings. If all check out, go in for an alignment. Being that it does not vibrate until then, it leads me to believe it may be an alignment issue.

There could be other causes as well. It could also be as simple as part of the exhaust or the like is too close the the rear diff causing vibration.

Will definitely check these things out once I get some daylight. I remember glancing at the ball joint bushings while doing the hub assembly and I didn't note anything major but I'll have to check the driver rear for deterioration and play and get a closer look as well. Thanks will get back to you on that

 

[pauleyman]

Did the wheel bearing solve the play issue? If not go find the play and fix it. Ball joint, bushing etc.

 

[Nimz]

Didn't get a chance to take a look today, but I talked to a friend who suggested maybe the rotor was bent or just bad. What are your thoughts on that?

 

[pauleyman]

No. Not if you could move the wheel.

 

[Puller]

First off, an incorrect alignment won't cause a vibration but obviously could cause the drift. Do you feel/see anything in the steering wheel? If not, your seat? If it only happens at highway speeds, it's usually rotational. One other possible source could be the driveshaft but not likely. You can disconnect and rotate (make sure to mark) the driveshaft and see if it changes. Are you using the correct lugnuts with your new style wheels? Again, almost all vibrations at that speed are tire/wheel related if it doesn't do it at slower speeds. I bought brand new rims and tires mounted from tirerack. I had to immediately take them into my shop and road force them. 2 brand new tires balanced fine but had excessive road force and caused a vibration. Replacement ones came and were fine.

 

[Sean Denny]

Grab ahold of the tire with it on the ground and watch the bolt and bushing play on the control arm directly above the tire as you try to move the tire in and out from the top and sides. I'm betting you will see some play there. ( I'm fighting the same thing right now.) New control arm bushings.

 

[too_genecide]

You might want to take the tires to a shop to check/verify the balance.
Check if the wheel is centered on the hub. Check if the lug nuts are seated correctly.
Checking for pay in the ball joints is easier done with the wheel jacked up in the air. Make sure that the vehicle is stable before hand.

 

[AWDPetmitsu]

Are any of the brake calipers seized? Check the temperature of the rotors after a drive.