very pissed off

[Kyromoto]

ok Ive tested everything and everything is good. no vacuum leaks. nothign. and i found my TPS was bad and today bought a new 1 for 177. yeah rip off. but anyways it still has that crazy RPM problem... im so frustrated. even a mechanic came out to work on it today and he couldnt find anything wrong with the car at all. he said the only way he thinks its getting fixed is if i go to Mitsu and have them fix it...
and i dont have the money for that

 

[tkelly27]

Stupid questions. Have you done a boost leak test (looking for vacuum leaks is not a boost leak test)? Have you pulled the ECU codes?

$177?! that's what the junkyard is for man.

 

[tqmx1]

If it has not been done in reacent history pull and check the ECU It will give you so many fits it will make you turn GRAY (I am. )

 

[Kyromoto]

havnt done the boost leak test but a mechanic looked at it and spayed the lines and couldnt find any leaks. and i reset the ecu. had batt unplugged for an hour and still didnt help. and i dont have anyway to pull the ECu codes. but tomorrow im going to autozone because i found out they can pull the codes. so well see what they say tomorrow

 

[meliketoball]

Check your throttle cable to see if its tight!!! If you adjusted the TPS that means you pulled the Throttle cable backwards thus giving you high idle!

If the T.C is tight loosen and readjust it so and BOOM, fixed.

I stole my TPS from the junkyard..

 

[Kyromoto]

the TC isnt tight. its just barly making contact with the throttle. i had it tight before to prevent stalling but then when the idle spiked it wouldnt come back down. now its where it should be. but the car wont start till i blip throttle but when i do that and let off it shoots to around 4k then drops to stall again unless i blip it again and the process keeps going and going

 

[Kyromoto]

i really wish i would have done that to. the junkyard good idea but didnt think of it... o well... now i got a new 1 that shudnt fail again. but now i got other problems

 

[meliketoball]

Wait, I don't even know what's happening to your car. Is it idling high? Surging?

If its surging, check your ISC or Idle Speed Control motor. It is located underneath the TB elbow towards the left a bit. It should be a green or black top ISC.

If you have a voltmeter, pull your ISC and test the connector pins with the voltmeter. If you don't know how to test it, go to the search module then type in ISC and search to test it.

 

[Kyromoto]

yeah ive done all that. ive done everything you can think of. after testing with volt meter i found out the TPS was bad and everything else is good. it isnt that its idling high. it wont idle at all unless i give it gas. but when i tap the throttle it shoots to 4k rpm then crashes after a second to stall. but i can keep blipping the throttle right before stall to keep it going but it automatically shoots back up to 4k. i have another thread giving great detail of whats going on. i say exactly everything. but that was before i replaced TPS. now with new TPS it still does this crazy problem. unfortunatly i got to go bed now. im going autozone tomorrow to see what crazy codes hit the ecu and hopfully that will lead me to fix it. crossing fingers!

 

[BoostedTalonTS]

Unless your Check Engine Light comes back on, your trip to AutoZone isn't going to give you any trouble codes... By you disconnecting the battery, you would have cleared all stored codes. This applies to all first generation DSMs, FYI.

I would look into cleaning the throttle plate and possibly replace the TB's shaft seals at the same time... being a 1990, your TB is probably in need of some serious TLC.

Good Luck!

 

[Kyromoto]

yeah i cleaned it for an hour. and yeah my check engine light does come on. and thanks for that 1g info . any other advice? im up just getting a snack cause im hungry so ill be on a little longer

 

[BoostedTalonTS]

By cleaning it, I mean actually removing it from the vehicle and disassemble it completely... Pay close attention to the BISS and vacuum port's air passages. Then I'd look into replacing the TB's shaft seals. IMO, I'd just find a 91+ TB in the wrecking yard and rebuild that then swap it out... Finding replacement TB shaft seals for the 1990 TB is pretty difficult, IIRC. I'd also recommend the TB coolant line bypass and the FIAV block off (unless you are in a continuously freezing climate).

 

[meliketoball]

I don't know man, all I can say is to readjust the TPS until you get your idle lower. I don't know if you adjusted your BISS screw but if you didn't try screwing that sucker in to see if you can lower it.

 

[tkelly27]

havnt done the boost leak test but a mechanic looked at it and spayed the lines and couldnt find any leaks. and i reset the ecu. had batt unplugged for an hour and still didnt help. and i dont have anyway to pull the ECu codes. but tomorrow im going to autozone because i found out they can pull the codes. so well see what they say tomorrow

No, doesn't matter what you or anyone else has done if they haven't done a boost leak test. The leaks need to be checked from the air filter all the way to the intake valve. A bad gasket on the MAF, a leak in a charge pipe, leaky J pipe gasket, cracked TB elbow, etc. etc, can all cause weird/no idle conditions. All of these become very common on 20+ year old cars that have been neglected. You must PRESSURIZE the pipes, starting just behind the MAF. That's how I got my car so cheap, the inlet hose clamp was loose and the guy didn't know why it wouldn't idle, and nobody he had taken it to had bothered to check that.

Pulling the codes only requires a buzzer and some lengths of wire. Search for it. If autozone is going to do it for free, make sure the car has driven for a while (10-15 min) to be positive the code had been pulled. If the CEL comes on when the problem happens, the code should be stored by now, even if you've reset the ECU.

Don't let them sell you anything until you inspect it first. Just because the computer thinks a sensor is not working, does not mean it's bad :

 

[Kyromoto]

thanks tkelly! i dont have a MAF so it cant be that . but ill try and just pressurize the lines. would it matter all my pipes are metel? and yeah i took my TB off the car and thouraly cleaned it. i didnt take it apart but i open and closed the valve to clean it by hand with engine cleaner. and yeah ive done the BISS and TPS adjustments. IT DOESNT IDLE HIGH. it just wont idle at all. but when i blip the throttle it spikes to 4k and immediately stalls. there is no idling at all. thanks guys though for all the ideas. hopefully tomorrow i can pressure the lines just to see. but i highly doubt theres a leak anywhere. ive tightened all the clamps and unless my metel piping is cracked and i cant see or hear it then maybe it could be that. but would that cause my issues? no idling at all, but when i touch the throttle it shoots to 4k and then stalls again???

 

[AlaskanDsm]

I thought they could only pull codes from OBD II and also I was under the impression that once you turn off the car you have like a total of like 10-30 seconds before the ECU is cleared in a 1G car. That was only my understanding though....please correct me if I am wrong!

 

[tqmx1]

I reset the ecu. had batt unplugged for an hour and still didnt help. and i dont have anyway to pull the ECu codes. but tomorrow im going to autozone because i found out they can pull the codes. so well see what they say tomorrow

Resetting the ECU will not do anything if the ECU is bad. Pull it out and open it up odds are at least one if not all 3 of the Caps have blown and the hope is it did not take the circut board with it.

 

[housegsx]

Did you check your ISC yet? Unplug it and unbolt it from the throttle body. Then plug it back in while it is removed and have someone switch the ignition back and forth from off to on. Is the motor moving in and out? It should be.

I had a similar problem where my car would not idle when coming down from higher revs or coming to a stop. I removed the ISC motor and it tested ok, so I also cleaned it off and cleaned where the end of it seats into the throttle body with some brake cleaner and a Q tip. Mine was just stuck shut from not driving it all winter.

 

[tqmx1]

I thought they could only pull codes from OBD II and also I was under the impression that once you turn off the car you have like a total of like 10-30 seconds before the ECU is cleared in a 1G car. That was only my understanding though....please correct me if I am wrong!

On all the cars there is a keep alive circut (I think lower right fuse on the inside fuse box) it also keeps the clock and radio stations alive (so you dont have to reset them every time you restart the car)

 

[dikdiamond]

i dont have a MAF

I see on your profile you have a 20 or 25g(?)turbo,what other supporting mods do you have? You have no MAf at all? How long? I thought having no MAF would give you idling problems?

 

[Kyromoto]

Did you check your ISC yet? Unplug it and unbolt it from the throttle body. Then plug it back in while it is removed and have someone switch the ignition back and forth from off to on. Is the motor moving in and out? It should be.

I had a similar problem where my car would not idle when coming down from higher revs or coming to a stop. I removed the ISC motor and it tested ok, so I also cleaned it off and cleaned where the end of it seats into the throttle body with some brake cleaner and a Q tip. Mine was just stuck shut from not driving it all winter.



yeah ive adjusted the ISC. But i havnt taken it out if thats what you mean? and Im the only one who can fit in my car so unfortunatly im the only one who can start it but ill see if i can convince my grandma how to LOOK for whatever your explaining

i have a 255 fuel pump. some upgraded injectors not sure the size though. and ive never had a MAF. ive never had a problem before and some DSMers said i dont need 1 and ive never needed one yet so im not sure

edit. and i recently fount out i dont have a 20g like i thought. its a 16 TEAR

 

[housegsx]

yeah ive adjusted the ISC. But i havnt taken it out if thats what you mean? and Im the only one who can fit in my car so unfortunatly im the only one who can start it but ill see if i can convince my grandma how to LOOK for whatever your explaining

Yeah, you should take it out to check if it's moving and also clean it. You don't have to start the car to check it, just move it back and forth from Off then to On. The ISC motor should move the thing in and out.

Also, make sure you take out the ISC, not something else. You said you adjusted it... As far as I know there are no adjustments on the ISC. I thought maybe your were getting confused and meant that you adjusted the TPS.

 

[Kyromoto]

yes thank you i was. i meant TPS my bad. and ive adjusted the idle control screw but no affect. ok well im going to do what you guys said right now and clean that sucker and see if it helps

 

[housegsx]

Be careful not to lose the O-ring. Make sure you test it too if possible.

 

[FlatBlackTerror]

Be careful not to lose the O-ring. Make sure you test it too if possible.

ANother possibility is the idle swtich. I know on teh 2g its built into the tps and if it isnt adjusted right it wouldnt engage causing the car to idle erratically. I think its on teh throttle wheel on the 1gs make sure thats all adjusted and so forth. Hooking it up to a datalogger will help reveal any problems.


Good luck