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very pissed off

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Kyromoto

15+ Year Contributor
227
0
Jan 2, 2008
Fontana, California
ok Ive tested everything and everything is good. no vacuum leaks. nothign. and i found my TPS was bad and today bought a new 1 for 177. yeah rip off. but anyways it still has that crazy RPM problem... im so frustrated. even a mechanic came out to work on it today and he couldnt find anything wrong with the car at all. he said the only way he thinks its getting fixed is if i go to Mitsu and have them fix it...
and i dont have the money for that :cry:
 
It sounds like you have all kinds of problems. There are going to be a bunch of DSMers out at California Speedway this Sat. for the street legal drags. You should bring your car by and we could at least give it a look while we are killing time between runs.
 
just checked the ISC and its checks out fine. and out of curiosity i looked at my airfilter wich dont look like a maf at all. but i saw a plug. so i just took it off and low and behold it is a MAF. it just looks way different then any ive seen. well the car shouldnt start with MAF off or unplugged right? well mine did. just gave it some gas like i always have to other wise itll stall. but it started just fine. thats weird. any other ideas?
 
Dude, you need a mass air flow sensor. You have to have one, it may not be the GM one that everyone upgrades to, but you have to have one. I'm guessing you don't think you have one because the stock one is in your air box and it would be easy to think it's not doing anything there. If you don't, and your car runs fine without a mass air flow measuring device, you are working magic. That's another reason my car wouldn't run in the first place, they had the MAF connector in upside down. Flipped the clip and it ran real well, but still some funky idles until I found the boost leaks.

When you pull off your air filter, the MAF will look like this
MAFMod
Or if you have the GM version, something like this will be somewhere in your intake tract
http://esm.logic.net/gallery/d/3133-2/gm-maf.jpg
You have it, trust me. If you don't, get one.

OMG LOL, buy a JDM motor, HELLA!!! No. Don't do that.

Your ECU is trying to tell you what's wrong, listen to it and pull the codes. You still haven't done a boost/intake leak test, so do it.

*edit* OH! you beat me to it. Yeah, the car WILL start with the MAF unplugged. The CEL WILL come on with the MAF unplugged too. I drove my car 15 miles with the MAF unplugged on accident! Now, BOOST LEAK TEST! CEL CODES!
 
thank you soad. ill try and get my car out there. i am pretty sure it will drive there safly so ill try. ill bring all the tools i can and id be sooooo greatful to anyone who could find whats wrong. and thanks dude ill definitly think about getting a new JDM motor.

tkelly my post at bottom of first page says i found the MAF LOL. but the car still starts and runs with it taken out. i cant believe this car man its bizare!
 
Well, if it runs the same with the MAF unplugged you might have a bad MAF sensor. Does yours still have the metal honeycomb on it?
 
I had a very similar problem with my car. Thought it was TPS but it wasnt, finally checked computer and it had a burned chip. DSMchips.com told me it was the chip controlling my ISC. Check you ISC and pull your computed to see if there are any burned traces or chips. I got an EPROM ECU from DSMchips and a junkyard ISC and the problem is gone. Good luck.
 
Did you read my post? I drove my car 15 miles with it unplugged (same as if it didn't exist in the engine bay at all). It drove poorly, and I would hit the rev limiter. It runs on what's sometimes known as alpha numeric control at that point, using the RPM and the TPS to guess what kind of air flow the engine is getting.

This thread is a waste of my, and everyone else's time if you do not do a boost leak test, and check your engine codes. Do them before posting or reading any new posts please. You didn't even know you had a MAF, how would you know if you had a boost leak?! It's a fools errand to get a new engine when you can't even figure out what's wrong with the one you have. Haha, sorry for being a dick, do the basics man, come on.
 
ok tkelly ill do that right now or try anyway. and about the honey comb in the MAF i just took that out right now and put the MAF back in and still no change. so it could be MAF sensor as you said but imma try and get the parts to do a boost leak test right now.

oh and sorry about the codes. how can i get the codes because my check engine light stopped coming back on. ok now trying the boost leak. be back somtime soon hopfully
 
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/search.php?searchid=4218771

Probably need access to an air compressor. There's someone, somewhere in california that has a BLT that will let you use it I'm sure.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/124325-1g-check-engine-light-codes.html

Diagnosis Port Error Codes

You can use a door buzzer from a parts store (just ask for a door buzzer). The second you hook it up with the key on it will go "beep, beep, BEEEEEEEP" in some combination and you'll use that to find the codes.

If you're MISSING the diagnostic port that's near your fuse box (if you're missing that, auto-zone won't touch it, and at that point you can sell it, learn, or replace everything under your hood. I've heard of more than one '90 car that was missing it), use this wiring diagram
ECU Wiring
to go straight to the ECU and find the self diagnosis wire. That's your hot lead, then put the ground to anywhere you like, I use the console lighter : D
 
thanks tkelly. I did the leak tester and nothing came up. So now im all out of ideas... and for some reason the check engine light isnt coming back on. i think ill just take the car to the cali speedway and see if a fellow DSMer can see whats wrong. thanks for all the help though guys i appreciate it.
 
thanks tkelly. I did the leak tester and nothing came up. So now im all out of ideas... and for some reason the check engine light isnt coming back on. i think ill just take the car to the cali speedway and see if a fellow DSMer can see whats wrong. thanks for all the help though guys i appreciate it.

Just to fun some of us pull the ECU and check it. Inside the car in the center consel right up at the very front. To get to it there are 5 plastic caps with phillips head screws behind them (2 left 3 right) The ECU is a gold box standing upright held in by 3 10mm head bolts (2 left 1 right) and 3 connectors atached to the bottom. Remove the bolts unplug the connectors and slip the ECU out the right side. Once removed there are 4 phillips head screws holding on the cover remove them and take off the cover. once in its use your nose time take a wiff of the 3 black round things, If they smell like dead fish you found your problem. After that remove the ecu board from the backing plate and check to see if the caps have burned through the circut board.

If that is not it, MAN you got me boy.
 
ok well after driving for over and hour yesterday taking it to the dmv things changed. it no longer spikes when i give it throttle from idle. it still doesn't idle but its easy to control with my foot. i think the new parts just needed to break in. because everything slowly got better. but when im shifting sometimes the rpms will climb 1k after pushing in the clutch and i got to wait a second to shift till they fall. well theres the new update on the car.
:dsm:
 
I already got it past smog with my hook ups LOL. but regardless the smog has nothing to do with my car problems so please only keep it to more ideas how to fix the car and let me worry bout smog and other things that i dont need help with. LOL i dont wanna sound like an ass but im just frustrated with the car.
:dsm:
 
No, they get stored. Even if the problem goes away, the code is stored for a while unless you clear them.
 
ok as soon as i get the codes ill post the update. may take another day or two but ill get them. thanks man
 
well mitsubishi says theyd charge me 85 bucks to get the codes and i heard i could get the codes for free but i just cant find where to get the codes for free. ive tried calling like autozone but they cant do anything older then 96. does anyone know where i could get the codes from for free or less then 85$ thanks
 
(1g, T, AWD) Have your own ECU diagnostic tool for less than 2 dollars!!

Club DSM

This site has a plethora of DSM knowledge,I've found the answers to alot of nagging little probs I've had. Some of the links are broken but most function just fine. Plus,just searching on this site you can find the same answers. Not to sound like a dick but it took my about 5 minutes to find the answer to your question.:thumb:
 
the intake has a new gasket. havnt checked the EGR yet. thanks im gonna look at that 2 doller ecu thing.
 
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