vented, now my motor wont start, now maybe its timing?

[nuclearpenguin]

I tried venting yesterday, just for the heck of it. The car seemed to do "ok" but i decided to go back to recirc with a metal pipe. I cut off some of the stock hose to help me with this but it wasn't pliable enough and was kinking (the car ran ok with it on there,but I didn't hear the bov so I assumed it wasnt dumping it back into the intake and was kinked up too tight), unfortunately this was after all the hardware stores aroud here closed so I decided I'd just vent for another day and go buy some new hose tomorrow and fix it. Well I went to start it tonight and the car was NOT in a good mood, it was idling funny and ticking alot, so I killed it, made sure my MAF was still plugged in and it was, everything seemed to check out, it was just running like CRAP and ticking and stuff ALOT. I decided to try re-attaching the kinked-up hose ,and I got same results. Now if I try to go start it, it bogs alot and dies. I pulled my first plug and the tip was white but the threads and under the electrode were pretty black. Any ideas?

What else can I check?

Also, I was boost leak testing today but everything was reattached and all of that good jazz, and I HAD driven it once since boost leak testing.

 

[blackbyrd]

It sounds exactly like a good vacuum leak. Did you boost leak it today/tonight after it started messing up?
My bet is you disconnected something, forgot to clamp something, cut a hose..something.

 

[chickmagnet]

Sounds like your plugs are fouled. Rehook the reciculation pipe get some new plugs and I would think you would be golden.

 

[nuclearpenguin]

Thats what i was thinking but i'm trying so hard to think and i cant pinpoint a problem spot.

Places my boost leak test yielded a problem: Throttle body elbow gasket, biss o-ring/screw, bov-to-manifold tube (i fixed that one). But like I said, I drove the car since the testing.

 

[nuclearpenguin]

Sounds like your plugs are fouled. Rehook the reciculation pipe get some new plugs and I would think you would be golden.

I was wondering on that one, I'm gonna go get some new pipe tomorrow and some new NGKs

 

[blackbyrd]

hmm, yeah. You drove the car sense, it could've blown something off, not securely clamped?
It could be your plugs, but it sounds like your running really lean(white plugs, poor idle, ticking).
Couldn't hurt for 5 bucks to replace them. Are you sure you fixed the bov to manifold tube?(was this testing after the problem).

edit: you said you drove the cars after the testing and it was fine? You should really do another boost leak test.

 

[nuclearpenguin]

hmm, yeah. You drove the car sense, it could've blown something off, not securely clamped?
It could be your plugs, but it sounds like your running really lean(white plugs, poor idle, ticking).
Couldn't hurt for 5 bucks to replace them. Are you sure you fixed the bov to manifold tube?(was this testing after the problem).

edit: you said you drove the cars after the testing and it was fine? You should really do another boost leak test.

Bov-manifold line is fine, that's the first one I checked when I started having problems.

I checked the big points and everything looked ok. Anything in particular I should triple check?

Boost leak test isn't working that great cause something down by the turbo (maybe my tester?) is leaking and I can't hold pressure worth a damn, I tried spraying soapy water and couldn't get no bubbles though. I sprayed it on the biss/tb elbow and that's how I knew they were leaking, I have no way of fixing them right now but if I've been driving with those leaks, why would they cause the car to quit running now?

 

[chickmagnet]

hmm, yeah. You drove the car sense, it could've blown something off, not securely clamped?
It could be your plugs, but it sounds like your running really lean(white plugs, poor idle, ticking).
Couldn't hurt for 5 bucks to replace them. Are you sure you fixed the bov to manifold tube?(was this testing after the problem).

edit: you said you drove the cars after the testing and it was fine? You should really do another boost leak test.

I would agree with this it is always good to fix leaks even if they are not the source of the problem.

 

[nuclearpenguin]

To make matters worse, I tried logging a startup, got no CELs and my FTL was like 139~%. Doesn't this mean I'm running SUPER lean? This doesn't sound right for the symptoms of venting Wouldn't a vacuum leak cause a lean mixture? I'm gonna boost leak test as soon as I get home.

 

[blackbyrd]

Yes. Thats what I've been saying! haha. Let us know the results.

 

[nuclearpenguin]

Tried boost leak testing and couldn't get no pressure. I had my g/f stand at the muffler and listen and air was definitely coming out (although not alot). This is not good. I thought maybe it was valve overlap so I tried cranking the motor and it backfired. This is starting to sound like a timing, valvetrain, or maybe h/g issue.

I just got my timing belt done this weekend, I'm gonna pop under there and see if the timing is off a tooth, hopefully there's no damage to my head .

Anything else I should know?

 

[perley03]

Tried boost leak testing and couldn't get no pressure. I had my g/f stand at the muffler and listen and air was definitely coming out (although not alot). This is not good. I thought maybe it was valve overlap so I tried cranking the motor and it backfired. This is starting to sound like a timing, valvetrain, or maybe h/g issue.QUOTE]
Did you set it to TDC before doing the test? If not, then your cams might be open, causing air to enter the combustion chamber and exit out the exhaust valves, giving you no pressure in the intake and hearing the sound out the exhaust. Try setting your #1 plug to TDC, and try again. Seen this happen many, many times, and dumbass me always forgets to do this.

 

[nuclearpenguin]

From where I've read, you shouldn't need to set it to TDC, the only way that the air can make it past the intake valves and back out the exhaust valve is if your h/g sucks and the air squeezes from one cylinder to the other or if you're REALLY unlucky and the motor stopped right on the valve overlap .

Anyways, I got down to the timing side and the belt is really loose on the idler pulley, I'm gonna research it, I'm sure it probably skipped a tooth

 

[blackbyrd]

Ah that sucks! I hope whoever did your timing warranties it..
Heres a good pic of the timing marks if you need reference..