The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Valve Seal Replacement

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

95TalonOwner

15+ Year Contributor
1,311
27
Oct 18, 2005
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
So I just bought new valve seals for my talon since its burns oil like mad at idle and I am just wondering how hard it is and what I have to do in order to replace them. I've never done them before, I'm just looking for some helpful info and tips.

I'm assuming I'll need to take the head off so there goes some more money on a new head gasket and ARP hardware and possibly a spacer to lower the compression a tad bit. Any help is appreciated.
 
IF you already have ARP head studs on there...and have only used them once...and espcially if your not boosting currently....you can most likely go a head and use them again.

But you might as well go for a new gasket set, and if your going to be boosted go for that MLS right now
 
It is possible to do with the head still on the car, one way is to use an air compressor and shoot air into the cylinder which will hold the valves in place while you replace the seal and get the spring/retainer(s) back on. Another is to lower a rope into the cylinder and slowly spin the crank by hand to that cylinders TDC or just about, position, which will hold the valve in place. However since your car is a 95 it's about due for Headgasket so I would recommend doing it that way, before the headgasket gets you.
 
If you do not pull the head, (I agree with the others, do the HG while you're at it) do as Josh says so you don't drop the valves into the cylinders. Otherwise you will be pulling the head.

After which you just pull the timing belt, cams and springs/retainers. Don't lose the keepers.

The seals may be stuck, if so give them a twist to break them free. They pull straight off.

Too easy, have fun.
 
Ok thanks for the tips, looks like I'll be ripping the head off soon, good thing I have my 90 to get me around while this is ripped apart.

Does anyone have experience with those spacers that lower compression a bit? I was thinking about getting one and running it until I finally decide to rebuild the bottom end and yes, a turbo kit will be going on as soon as it warms up. Hahn Racecraft stage I kit with most likely an ebay front mount core and custom made piping since I'm not shelling out the rediculous 1000 bucks for the hahn front mount kit aka stage II.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top