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2G Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

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GSTjordan831

Probationary Member
12
0
Aug 26, 2020
Salinas, California
Need some help/info. I've read multiple threads, some people say use rtv it's a saver others so no rtv it causes leaks. Some say don't torque the bolts others saying not torquing the bolts causes leaks. And I'm just a bit confused now.

So I have the new gasket set and I plan on using rtv. I know when finishing to tighten the inside bolts first than the outer ones. Can I get anymore insight on this. I've only had the car for about 6 months now. Previous owner said he put a brand new gasket and it is I can tell, but that's where its currently leaking from. It has some blue gasket on there now and I just bought a fel-pro one from autozone and it came black.

Is there any more info I need? I would love the help.
 
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just put rtv at the seam between the outer cam caps and the head. also on the semi-circular packing

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its easier to put the rtv on the head and set the valve cover and gasket on instead of putting on the gasket. make sure you clean the valve cover and head where the gasket will contact them. Remove any old rtv completely. On the valve cover, you can use brake parts cleaner and some q-tips to clean the groove for the gasket and spark plug seals.

so on the head it would be the spots with the green

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From someone who had serious valve cover leaks and issues, maybe I could help!
For RTV, a little bit goes a long way. As stated, put a little RTV along the cam curves. I go a step further and throw a little RTV in all the harsh bends/curves. At every 90deg turn, or bolt hole, I throw a little RTV in just to be sure. I throw a little in the sparkplug hole gaskets, because it's a complex curve, and I've had it leak there before, and it's not fun.
Just hand-tighten the bolts, starting from the inside ones, and finishing on the outside ones. I usually don't do more than hand-tighten, it's pretty easy to crack a valve cover from torqueing it in a weird pattern, or too much.
 
After that great post from Dusty I can only add two things.

The bolts must be torqued down but the spec is very light (3Nm, 2.2 ft.lbs) and you may not have a torque wrench that goes that low and is reliable. It's so easy to exceed it and crack the rocker cover it's not funny. This is about the amount of force required to flatten a split washer and you can do it with one finger on a 1/4" socket wrench so be careful.

Second is to replace the gasket on the oil cap. These leak like crazy and the spring clip can distort over time. Put a new one on and check to see if any oil makes it to the outer edge. Needless to say clean both the gasket and the cover when you open them normally. It's a great place for road grit to collect.
 
Just try not over tighten the bolts. Even if without RTV, it shouldn't be leaking immediately if the gasket is new. If you keep seeing the leak after replacing the gasket, you should suspect that you have excess crankcase pressure for some reason, such as a bad PCV valve or worn rings etc. Maybe to inspect the PCV valve in the same time would be a good idea.
 
The only thing I can add since all y'all covered it well is if you are super concerned about over tightening bolts is pick up a set of metric hollow end screwdivers and use them. They are like $9 at harbor freight

I would get all bolts threaded before tightening. And although not necessary you may follow a head bolt pattern of tightening. Sometimes it's more an ease of mind thing then an actual effective tool, to follow a pattern.
 
if you hold the ratchet by the head instead of the handle it will help keep from over torquing the bolts.

like this:
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Thank you everyone for your input I very much appreciate it, I feel better about tackling this gasket swap myself for the 1st time. I will definitely take points from all of you while doing the swap.
 
Does all this apply to 1G's too, specifically the 2.0? I assume yes but just making sure. I have to do this myself fairly soon.
 
Does all this apply to 1G's too, specifically the 2.0? I assume yes but just making sure. I have to do this myself fairly soon.

yes. 1g and 2g 4g63

420a too, just put rtv in the same spots as on the 4g63. where the outer cam caps meet the head and over the semi circular packing. with the 420a you don't have to worry about cracking the valve cover but you will pull the threads out of the bolt hole if you over torque the valve cover bolts
 
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Thanks. Does the FSM say to use RTV, or is it just good practice?

This is in addition to an actual physical gasket, right?
 
if you hold the ratchet by the head instead of the handle it will help keep from over torquing the bolts.

like this:
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Yeah that's true. Actually that's a good useful technique. I was taught that when I was young. I have been doing that in many cases when I tighten M6 or smaller diameter bolts.
 
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