The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

1G Unorthodox crankshaft removal

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

sacrileger

Proven Member
303
48
Jun 26, 2016
Orillia, ON, Canada
I have my motor bolted to an engine stand and planning to swap crankshafts. Do all you guys follow the Mitsu service manual step by step or do you have some unique, nifty, minimalistic and efficient ways to remove crankshafts to save yourselves some extra work and time?
 
You’re going to have to tear down the entire engine and clean everything. Lots of that old bearing material is going to be floating around. Pay special attention to the oil pump, it’ll probably need replaced. I would replace the lash adjusters too.

Make sure to pull the galley plugs in the head and block and brush them.
 
You’re going to have to tear down the entire engine and clean everything. Lots of that old bearing material is going to be floating around. Pay special attention to the oil pump, it’ll probably need replaced. I would replace the lash adjusters too.

Make sure to pull the galley plugs in the head and block and brush them.

The first thing I looked for after I dropped the oil pan was any kind of debris on the bottom of the pan. What I found were aluminum shavings that looked like this (10th and 11th pic in the gallery) just smaller, not as big.

crushed spark plug

I have no idea if those shavings were left in the head by Mitsu and ended up in the oil pan or those were remains of the thrust bearing. My own amateur diagnosis and speculation is that the clutch was not adjusted properly and the thrust bearing was simply worn down by the constant pressure and friction to a sliver over a very long time. Needless to say, if all those shavings were related to the thrust bearing, I am thinking that the natural path for them would have been from the bearings into the oil pan and then very tiny particles thru the fine mesh on the oil pickup funnel back into the engine where some of the debris was deposited in the lifters and the rest was caught by the oil filter - is this about right?

I will definitely look at and test the oil pump since I already have it on the stand, replace all bearings, seals, etc. and go from there.
 
the natural path for them would have been from the bearings into the oil pan and then very tiny particles thru the fine mesh on the oil pickup funnel back into the engine where some of the debris was deposited in the lifters and the rest was caught by the oil filter - is this about right?

The metal will get everywhere regardless. As Donnie stated you are going to have to clean the entire engine. Or you are just going to trash your new bearings.

I will definitely look at and test the oil pump since I already have it on the stand

It's not the functionality of the oil pump that is the only issue. It is all the metal that is going to be trapped in it. You can take it apart and attempt to clean it the best you can, but it's probably just best to replace it. The oil filter housing is going to have metal that will need cleaned out, but personally I would replace that as well.
 
The metal will get everywhere regardless. As Donnie stated you are going to have to clean the entire engine. Or you are just going to trash your new bearings.

It's not the functionality of the oil pump that is the only issue. It is all the metal that is going to be trapped in it. You can take it apart and attempt to clean it the best you can, but it's probably just best to replace it. The oil filter housing is going to have metal that will need cleaned out, but personally I would replace that as well.

Thanks, I'll definitely take extra time to examine the oil housing and pump - and very likely replace it as I have another one around. I was thinking using solvent to brake down and wash out the oil with the metal particles from the oil pump and housing. Or is there another way to get the metal shavings out of all the passages, nooks and crannies

My original question from post one; however, was regarding removal of crankshaft - whether everybody here is following the Mitsu service manual to remove crankshafts or if there is another way to snake the crankshaft out faster.
 
There's not really a "faster" way. There's a right way and many wrong ways. Use the Mitsubishi service procedure as I'm sure anyone who's built a motor thats lasted more than a month would do.

Edit- I realize this is almost a year after but there was a question unanswered so... Now there's an answer.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top